Nightshift Posted February 15, 2005 Report Share Posted February 15, 2005 I spent about 6 hours with it. I know now why people wanted $300 to bolt them in. Headers are in, properly torqued, everything underhood reconnected. All is left are the cats/cross-over and connect the exhaust. I am going to have to two joints that are 'strap-clamped' welded. There is less than 1/2 inch clearance between the right header and the frame. Should that be of concern?? Pics tomorrow... WW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krambo Posted February 15, 2005 Report Share Posted February 15, 2005 How close do they run to the tranny cooling line? I know the ASM's are very close. Wrap the lines in heat tape or relocate them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oscar Posted February 15, 2005 Report Share Posted February 15, 2005 It depends on how much the engine(and the headers hooked to it) jump or move when you hit the Happy pedal.. I don't think it sould be a concern. The moderen truck engines now don't really move a lot under load like they did in the old times.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt rem Posted February 15, 2005 Report Share Posted February 15, 2005 I will check mine when I get home, I think mine is around that and mine does not hit. I know some of the first sets of Dynatechs hit the frame, I think they solved this problem. How about the plugs wire issue, It sucks for 5 and 7. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightshift Posted February 15, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2005 Couple hours to finish this morning. I'd probably be done except for trying to get around dropping the trans crossmember. I spent more time trying not to, then it took to do it... I have to create something for 5 & 7. WW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_w Posted February 15, 2005 Report Share Posted February 15, 2005 The passenger side header? 1/2" is a ton of room ;) - mine's a 1/4" or less. It almost looks like it's touching. When the engine torques when the throttle is applied, it will pull that header away from the frame. My drivers side header is evenly spaced, with whatever surrounds it. I honestly forget right now -- the driveshaft and the fame? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt rem Posted February 15, 2005 Report Share Posted February 15, 2005 My right side is about 3/4 or 1/2 inch also, I have no problems at all. You should be ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightshift Posted February 15, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2005 Finished! Took more then a few hours, but done! A friend fashioned an interesting clip for #5 & 7 wires. It's made out of galvanized steel wire. It's mounted in a former shroud bolt hole. It now has a u-bend in the end to keep from pulling out, once I find the proper bolt it'll be made permanent It's keeping the wires a 1/4 - 1/2 inch from the header. Only drove a few miles home on the tollway, has more punch and seems to go into boost fairly easy... Also has a deeper exhaust tone. Allot of tight clearances underneath, the cat, front driveshaft and O2 sensor was a riot. Nothing is hitting, tomorrow allot of that stuff is going to be welded and more bracing added. Passenger side header is less than a 1/4 inch at the frame. At least it's done right and I'll never do this again! I'll post pics from the bottom tomorrow. WW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt rem Posted February 15, 2005 Report Share Posted February 15, 2005 Nice job Good idea for the wires. I agree on never doing it again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremes10 Posted February 16, 2005 Report Share Posted February 16, 2005 Nice JOB!!!! So you can tell it makes more power and sound much better then the JBA? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_w Posted February 16, 2005 Report Share Posted February 16, 2005 I like what you did for the wires... I made those little sheet metal tabs a while back, with plastic wire ties to secure the wires back. For whatever reason I decided to check them this last weekend, and the plastic was very brittle. They were holding, but I wouldn't have been able to sleep that night... I ended up securing them back with some lighter gauge steel wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt rem Posted February 16, 2005 Report Share Posted February 16, 2005 oneof the plastic zip ties broke Sat. nite and burned up one of my MSD wires. I have the pieces coming this week to make 2 custom fit ones for the back two cylinders. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_w Posted February 16, 2005 Report Share Posted February 16, 2005 Where did you get those Matt? I was thinking about ordering a custom kit with some pimpin 90* boots and stuff. ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSilverad03 Posted February 16, 2005 Report Share Posted February 16, 2005 Yeah the question is can you tell a difference from the JBA's? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt rem Posted February 16, 2005 Report Share Posted February 16, 2005 Marc, You can't buy the coil boot from MSD they don't have a part number for it, So they sent me 3 of them for free. I got 6 foot of wire, the multiangle boots and the crimp tool from Summit. You can't use 90s on the plugs with our heads. I can use the other wires, I just need to make two for 5 & 7. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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