d_a_n_payne Posted December 28, 2004 Report Share Posted December 28, 2004 I FINALLY got my sevos in and my crankshaft relearn thing done. I left the shop and by the time I got home the display read "Transmission Hot" Or something like that. The gauge says its right below 300. When it shift into 2nd at light throttle it almost breaks my neck and at WOT its kinda smooth. And I dont think it will even shift into third but I havent really tried, because I was scared. Whats wrong, Zippy? Or anybody else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bugsdad Posted December 28, 2004 Report Share Posted December 28, 2004 I FINALLY got my sevos in and my crankshaft relearn thing done. I left the shop and by the time I got home the display read "Transmission Hot" Or something like that. The gauge says its right below 210. When it shift into 2nd at light throttle it almost breaks my neck and at WOT its kinda smooth. And I dont think it will even shift into third but I havent really tried, because I was scared. Whats wrong, Zippy? Or anybody else? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Was there something wrong with the trans that made you think you needed servos? Servos won't correct a slipping problem if that was the case. I don't know a lot about the 4L65E electronics as far as the PCM is concerned but from what I understand from reading over on the FBody forum is that your PCM can "learn" from harsh shifts and decrease line pressure to prevent it from happening. The decrease in line pressure can allow the band and the clutches to slip causing an overheat condition. Some guys have had the ecm decrease line pressure from the harsh shifts, then detect the slip(rpm difference), then increase line pressure so much it blows the retaining ring end of the input drum out. Zippy can definitely help better than I could but I tried. I've built regular old 700s that can hold up to well over 700HP and 750ft pounds of torque in a 3800 pound vehicle and all I've done is run 300PSI line pressure,093 servo with red spring from Fairbanks shift kit and Fairbanks super hold 4th servo as far as that is concerned(lots of other things) but I've never needed the big 2nd servo. They eliminate 3rd accumulation completely. Good for breaking reaction carrier shafts. 2-4 bands hardly ever burn up on 1-2 shifts. They tend to burn up on the extended wot 4th gear guys. That's why I use the Fairbanks 4th servo. The sonnax 4th dual servo has had some issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan06SS Posted December 28, 2004 Report Share Posted December 28, 2004 Zippy will know what it is... the guy knows EVERYTHING! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d_a_n_payne Posted December 28, 2004 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2004 Was there something wrong with the trans that made you think you needed servos?Servos won't correct a slipping problem if that was the case. I put them in for firmer shifts. Just like a lot of other SS guys have done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bugsdad Posted December 28, 2004 Report Share Posted December 28, 2004 I'm just saying that there's another way to do what you tried to do. A corvette servo(093 designation with solid sealing viton D rings) with the red stiff spring from the Fairbanks kit is more than enough to hold the 2-4 band when going into second gear. I've helped many guys over the last several years that did it to correct a problem, which of course it can't do. In your case it sounds like it made a problem. If the Fairbanks 2nd servo is the route the ss guys have chosen, Zippy probably knows how to correct the situation caused by the harsh shift. He'll get on here and get you the help you need. Hopefully it's just a PCM issue that you can recalibrate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted December 28, 2004 Report Share Posted December 28, 2004 it sounds as if you have a wiring condition on your hands and the pcm is reacting to it. the servo's will not cause a heating up condition in any way shape or form. you need to get a scanner on it and chase the fault down. likely wiring or a bad pcm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d_a_n_payne Posted December 28, 2004 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2004 My PCM is supposed to be set for these. It was done by Brian. Should I call and him just incase? What do you mean by wiring? I just need something to tell the mechanic who did it. So he can try to figure out the problem. Wiring would bbring the temp up to almost 300? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d_a_n_payne Posted December 28, 2004 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2004 And it is shifting through all the gears. I just checked that out, im pretty sure. I still have a check engine light that I will be checking on soon. I floored it from 35mph and it started bouncing like crazy tryn to shift. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted December 28, 2004 Report Share Posted December 28, 2004 you originally typed the gauge read under 210. if the trans is really that hot, someone either didn't install the parts right or you have a wiring issue and the trans temp isn't actually that high, but showing the pcm that it's that high. you don't happen to have a yank stall do you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdss Posted December 28, 2004 Report Share Posted December 28, 2004 I have a PCMforless tune and a full set of Superior Billet servos and I have only gotten warm a few times in traffic and that wasnt even that hot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bugsdad Posted December 28, 2004 Report Share Posted December 28, 2004 If the mechanic dropped the trans down to install the servo lineup, he very well could've pinched the wiring harness when it was raised back up or he could've pinched the harness if he let the trans hang from the engine. You'd be surprised how much damage can be done letting it hang from the engine. Also, servo pin travel needs to be set. You can't just throw in the new servos and cram the snap ring in. Servo pin travel needs to be 1/8" to 1/16". The Fairbanks 2nd servo requires quite a bit to be ground off the end of the apply pin. Whatever the case, if it wasn't doing it before, it obviously happened at some point during you last modifications. At least you know when it happened. As bad as it seems, at least you know where to start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdss Posted December 28, 2004 Report Share Posted December 28, 2004 When Bill and I installed my servos, we didnt set any pin travel. Zippy, does this need to be done with the Superior kit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan06SS Posted December 28, 2004 Report Share Posted December 28, 2004 I don't beleive so. I know I didn't worry about it when we did mine.... *ahem (clears throat)... I mean when Cody did mine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSminneapolis Posted December 28, 2004 Report Share Posted December 28, 2004 i never had a temp problem with mine...can't even get the gauge to move now...to cold out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haynss Posted December 28, 2004 Report Share Posted December 28, 2004 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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