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Rausche

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Posts posted by Rausche

  1. you should definately come up and meet some of us MASSholes :ughdance: I think were gonna try somthing in september. I need to get to the track and see what Sue can arrange for us and what dates will work.

     

     

    I would definately spring for a get-together... I know there are people in MA, but I'm the only one from Cape Cod... I'd love to have a meet at the NE Speedway sometime, or at the Uno in Kingston or something...

     

    And P -> Forget flying. Drive that monster up here, I want some pictures in front of that thing...

  2. Yeah I pretty much die every time I get on a stand-up as well... I can do the really fast supercharged little things, but I can't do stand up to save my life...

     

    I'm all about the 60mph barrel turns... If you lose it during one of those, you're dead. Period. That way there's no embarrassment :D

  3. you need to change the monitor resolution (on the computer). Start off with something big (like 800x600), and work up until it looks good... I have a 36" in my room that I hook up to watch movies on and such and it handles 1024x768 at best, but your TV might do okay with a higher resolution...

  4. guys, long time lurker and my dad finally gave me a reason to post. my dad just got a "new" 2004 Silverado SS. Here is his question, defenitely not my area of expertice.

     

    The remote zapper on the truck behaves backward from what it's supposed to. When you lock it, it's supposed to chirp the horn if you press the lock button twice to confirm locking. It doesn't do that. When you unlock it, it unlocks the driver door if you press it once, and unlocks both doors if you press it twice. However, it also chirps the horn when you press unlock twice, and the manual says nothing about that. Seems like the two press functions are reversed. I know on your brothers Lancer it is programmable but I can't find anything like that for GM Truck keyless remotes.

     

    Any ideas?

     

     

    You can find the programming options for the horn/lights in the DIC when you're in the user options. There are programmable options for lights/horn during lock and during unlock (seperately).

     

    Let us know how it works out!

  5. Try to find ones as close to the same size as what's in there... You should also power them both (old and new) up to measure light output from them before you make it permanant... If the new ones are too bright you'll start to see all the gridding and outlining of the LCD itself (it won't look very clean)... Don't be afraid if the wiring tails are really long on the new bulbs, they're meant to be cut and bent into shape (carefully!)...

     

     

    let us know how it works out!

  6. :withstupid: I would aim just the driver's side lamp downward a tad; I leave the passenger one aimed a little higher to make it easier to read road signs but the difference isn't much, like maybe 3-5 degrees. I've got the 50W kits and I've never been brighted by oncoming drivers, but I've been told by others that they're definitely noticeably brighter than other vehicles around me, they really stand out but not enough to be a hazzard.

     

    The only way that aftermarket lighting is legal is if it has a "DOT Approved" mark on it, and none of the HID conversion kits are technically legal however the better ones are aimed well and have very good performance. About the argument with light output, the 4300K vs. 6000K vs. 8000K: a 4300K bulb puts out just as many photons as a 12000K bulb but we (as humans) cannot register them with our eyes. Another thought, your bulbs in the next few months will gain some color, after a while they'll blue-up a bit and look more like 5000K or even 5500K, this is completely normal.

     

    Mr. P.

     

     

    :withstupid: In my dad's car (the Phaeton), one of the projector headlamps is very noticeably aimed around 2-4 inches lower (at about 50ft range), like P said, it's only a few degrees, but it seems to make all the difference in the world to oncoming traffic...

  7. ok i took apart the a/c control tonite and it looks like the light bulbs are saudered to teh circuitry... what kind of business could popped those off and replace them with leds? I was thinking maybe some kind of computer repair store since thats the kind of stuff they deal with?...

     

    Just snip the old LEDs off and get the color you want (with circuitry endings) from radioshack (or any computer parts store or ebay), and sauder some ones on yourself. Use thin to medium gauge saudering wire, and be real carefull when you do it do you don't end up joining more circuits then you're supposed to. It's not hard to do, it's just very time consuming and a bit of pressure because if you screw up... well, you know..

     

    ... and post pics when you're done!!

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