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Krambo

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Everything posted by Krambo

  1. I did not see the gains I wanted or expected. I did various nozzel sizes and meth concentrations on the dyno and only yielded a best of 2* over my base WOT timing. The only reason I have kept the kit on the truck is because I am too lazy to swap injectors. My 42# are well beond spent IDC's are at 100 with the meth...dangerous. Do a search, I posted a write-up of my experiences a while back. I have tweeked my timing table to death prior to the dyno sessions and I feel that I was at optimal timing curve to begin with. I found 50/50 was the best for me as I did see minor reduction in IAT's but not what the turbo/centrifugal guys see. Keep in mind we are sprayinng pre-compressed air, if you invest in that N2O plate that is over at PT.net and spray meth through it, I think you may see biger gains. Just my opinion
  2. 500 to the wheels? I know I am over 500 to the wheels Now, 550 to the wheels is going to be a challenge but it will be fun trying (ON A LQ9, STOCK DISPLACEMENT, NO N2O).
  3. You are exactly right Holty. I have been playing with a SD set-up and there is no way it will pass in full SD tune. It isn't as easy as turning off some codes like with cats
  4. ...My father sold a numbers matching 68 with a 396 4 speed for 44K 3 years ago. Took that money and bought a 67 vette with the 435 HP 427 all numbers matching for 68K. That same car just appraised for 127K 2 months ago. Not a bad investment I would check VOLO as they have a nice turnaround for cool cars
  5. Sounds great but where that camera man is taking his video is VERY dangerous. He could easily eat a wheel weight or a blown tire.
  6. syty.net All the info you will need.
  7. Very nice! Get some video of the spray run. What converter and stall are you running?
  8. Are you FI or NA? First do what SS_bnoon_SS stated but do it to the high octane table. Add a few * and scan. Where you see KR, you know you have to drop it a touch. Just a tip, add more timing down low vs the upper rpm's, it worked great for me when I was NA. Gave me better times at the track.
  9. Only thing I got for ya is stock black hood and fan shroud / fan. Cheap
  10. I agree with Zippy. Level 10 is in NJ and do fantastic work. Being so close, I would check them out.
  11. A manual relay is nice for the cool downs in the staging lanes as well
  12. Go with Magnacharger. When I bought mine it was $55 plus like $5 for shipping. Prices have gone up!
  13. I noticed a slight boost increase however I did the "famous" 90 MM TB conversion with it. Look at it this way, it won't hurt to pin the pulley and for the cost...its one of the cheapest insurance mods you can do. Crank Pulley Pinning *link*
  14. Yea, pull it. While your at it (isnt always the case) it would be a great time to do rod bolts and an upgraded oil pump.
  15. BigTex had a mild cammed radix'd 6.0L and ran a 12.3. He then tore it down to do some nice stage 2 AFR heads, 90MM TB and some porting. After all said and done he ran a 12.6 Its just my opinion that heads will not get the "Typical" 50RWHP like on a NA set-up. 502,...I would stroke and poke your 6.0L for equilivant power, better gas mileage and quite possibly cheaper (when all aid and done).
  16. IMO, heads will not get you the gains you would typically expect, WITH YOUR SET-UP. rockers are not necessary.
  17. I think it overheated for some reason and spit out the overflow.
  18. If you can do plugs and wires,...you can do O2's I am not sure on the exact change interval on the O2's but I believe every 30K is suggested. I am on my 2nd set (fronts) at near 40K. They are like $100 each. Is your plug wires all the way on? I am betting that bad wires (arc onto headders) and or issues with plugs.
  19. I am currently running a 216/222 on a 115LSA. I am happy with it. Could have a wider LSA like the gt2-3 but all in all it is fine for me
  20. Kevin, those coulnd't possibly be Baer brakes behind thos e 16's could they? my stock 20's are my winter wheels. of course, my stock 20's are painted, not chrome. Nope, no baers behind 16's. They are just a slotted and x-drilled rotor I picked up for looks mostly. Prostop. If and when I go with the big breaks, 18's will be in order.
  21. That cam wouldn't be my first blower cam suggestion. Bet the idle will sound good though Alot of guys "over cam" the radix which hasn't produced the expected gains. It seems that the mild cam guys are doing better. The lingenfelter cam is a proven cam.
  22. The HPT black box logging is pretty cool. I had EFI and now HPT. For some reason, I prefer HPT. Just an opinion as both are great.
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