collingdale
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Posts posted by collingdale
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hey guys well a few months ago. I hit a curb with the back rear tire from drifting in the rain. Well 2day took the time and finally fix it. Holy crap, i couldn't figure out how the c-clip would come out, to take the axle out. Lucky for me, goodwrenchCC lives like 5 miles for me and he had a GM TECH books of are SSS. Read up on it and it was very diffcult to understand. I finally got it and the axle came right out. So earlier that day i got a new axle seal for it and tried putting it in and it was the wrong size Damm NAPA. So had to go up there and size-up the stock one with another. Finally got home and put everything back together wow what a long day
but if anyone is goin to take an axle out just p.m. me and ill explain wat u have to do. If not go and buy the books for $150
NOTE:
Check and make sure your spider gear where the axle goes through doesn't have too much end play, or it will come back out and the C clip will fall out!
Common problem with the spiders gears wearing out prematurely.They are not very hardened material neither is the case.
To many smoky burn outs will do that.
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Would you do it after break in?
After breaking in the cam and lifters you would change your oil and filter.
On roller cams you do not have to break in the cam!
Only on flat tappet cams.
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Hey guys, wanted to get your thoughts on this. This guy at work has added a ProCharger, Cold air, LT's and MAC cat back, and claims 539 to the wheels using SCT. I dont believe it. He runs 11.7's in the 1/4. Just wanted to see what some of you thought about this. I can believe 430ish
Yes it is possible as i dynoed many.Just find out if he has dyno print out.Here is an 86 turbo 347 stroker mustang with 11psi boost 617hp at the wheels dynoed
last week on ACCEL DFI.
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Those some good and true numbers on mustang dyno .The dyno jet gives higher number as they are inertia dynos the majority. Mustangs dynos are eddy current.
The important thing is that the customer is happy!
Could you get more out of it? YES IS THE ANSWER.
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I found a block number 10066034 on the engine is that the number for the 350HO b/c it doesn't seem to be a factory number in any of my books
Iam curious,Was the dyno done on a dyno jet?
All i can say is that a 1/4 mile pass will show your real time.
Or a couple of dyno pulls on my mustang dyno.
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Well i finally got a procharger for a great deal on ebay. I need some help though. It fits a 99 02 chevy 5.3-6.0. I hope that i can just buy the 03-04 bracket. It has everthing to put it on except for the instruction book. Does anyone have one???? Also I need to know what eles i need to do. Can anyone be of help to me???? thanks Mister don't worry,i have done a dozen of procharger installations.It doesn't get any easier than a procharger installation.
No oil lines, self contained blower just add 6 ounces of oil that procharger gives you.Change the oil in the blower every 6000 miles.
You can purchace all the brackets and intercooler seperate, and instruction book from them just give them a call. If you need help just call me.
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Since you bumped it Zippy, I wanted to add to my reply here.
I have been able to add the timing that I had to pull at the TC lock point at WOT. I assume that my Yank TT 2600 had issues from the get-go and having it fail was a actually a good thing.
Here is some light to IAT SENSORS.
Colder inlet temps mean more timing advance can be used .Contreversly much hotter inlet temps [OFTEN A RESULT OF SUPERCHARGING] require reduced timing to avoid the knock that comes from the increased burned rate.
Ideally an IAT sensor should be placed as near to the cylinder head intake port as possible so the computer sees actual charge temp.
This allows for tighter control in supercharged applications, WHERE THE TEMP CAN VARY FROM 90 degrees to over 300 degrees in a non intercooled motor.
A good tuner can compensate for SC application with the IAT sensor installed ahead of the compressor.It is installed there for safety margins from the factory.{But not very accurate}
On all aftermarket EFI sytems the IAT is installed on the intake manifold closest to the cylinder head as i said.
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hopefully 3 weeks,
Mark
Very nice motor
i like the red color it offsets the whole engine compartment.GREAT AND CLEAN JOB!
Can wait to see the dyno numbers.
How much boost?
Are you going to be using the same intake?
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Those numbers are too good. I'd be very suspicious of how the dyno was setup... The numbers are definitely inflated. With drivetrain losses, you'd have to have gained 100hp to be where you're at... not going to happen.
QUESTIONS:
Do you have a dyno print out?
What type of dyno where those numbers from?
And when was the dyno calibrated the last time?
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How did this thread get here?
What a mess.
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I bought an 05 2wd trail blazer its suck down the gas I can't evemn get 300mi to a tank of gas. What does anybody recommand i can do to help improve this.
thanks Dan
A custom tune because these trucks come rich from the factory with a very conservative tune with two octane timing tables.
An exhaust system cat back, a cold air induction .And you should see on the highway between 18 to 20 mph per gallon.Don't use the cheap octane grade because you will burn more fuel and stay on the highway below 65 miles an hour.
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I just installed a radix that makes no boost hopefulley due to an underdrive pulley being on it.(will find out tommorow as I am getting a stockker installed)
For some reason though I keeping getting a code saying that Bank 1 & 2 fuel trim too lean I would think the truck is pig rich with a tune for 6lbs of boost and the truck is only making 1...?? Any ideas...please share.
thanks in advance
BlackSSS
Your underdrive pulley is ONE OF your problems, that is why you are not getting any boost.
Did you have the ecm programmed? Did you send it to Magnacharger?
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Ok guys i think i have done just about everything i can do without spending over 2000, I have camshaft, headers, spark plug wires, thermostat, intake, exhaust, ram air, pcm tune, torque converter with zippy kit, Ls6 valve springs, TBS. what should i do next. I dont have the money for a Supercharger or turbo and i dont want nitrous........I can spend up to $1000, you guys have any ideas, i wanna go faster. Speed truley is addicting... thanks for any complies
My friend,
Since you allready have the springs,how about an SLP 1.85 ROCKER ARM PACKAGE FOR $624.95 AND SET OF CHROME MOLY PUSHRODS FOR $129.95 AND YOU SHOULD PICK AROUND 12 TO 15 HP .
And you will even get little sound out of it and still have money left.
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Just Got The Truck Dyno
in Video & Photography
Posted · Edited by c/p (see edit history)
Yea, the AFR might show rich but it is reading incorrect!
The wide bad oxygen sensor was bad.
When i use HP tuners i data log the fuel trims through the lap top using the factory sensors setting the fuel trims through a histogram.
The last car i was tuning was a 750hp turbo mustang runinng C12 race fuel for about 3 hours and it damaged the LM1 O2 sensor.
The readings on the graph are wrong for Marks truck.
And the truck was not tuned by the dyno wideband!
If it was that rich you would be seeing a lot of black smoke through the tailpipe and the
check engine light would be on.
On the 1\4 mile pass the motor was revving at the end of the 1\4 mile at 4800rpm in 3rd
gear.
Mark told me that he ran the 1\4 mile passes on the towing haul mode!