IndySilveradoSS

I watched and wish they would've finished it. Anybody who knows anything about these trucks knows its not a question of IF you should save them.. You save them.. imo

updates?

Have all LED lights and recently I have had an issue with my passenger side turn signal light staying solid while A-My headlights are on, and B-when I have my fogs on. It functions normally when the lights are off during the day. It was an intermittent issue at first, but now just stays solid. Any help or direction is appreciated.

**Update Well, since the last update I had the transfer case input shaft stripe out, so I swapped in a used unit. Also lost a pair of u joints in the front causing damage to the driveshaft, smashed header tubes, oil filter etc.. Replaced the u joints only to see them fail (that's what I get for buying AZ sh*t). Had new driveshaft made with spicer U joints. Ended up cracking the passenger axle tube in the process, so I ended up with a front diff from a denali, so at least I can rebuild that one to have a spare..Also did new brakes all the way around, and upgraded the front to the Tahoe brakes, haven't noticed much difference honestly yet, will prob replace all the brake lines in a few months.

I don't think you can swap transfer cases unless you go to a manual shift 4x4 case for a quasi 2wd truck. As far as trans, you can swap in the 80E which is the best trans you can run, which you will need an new gear that Time2Kill sells on here,

I can spin the wheels on mine when it's up in the air

**Update.. This weekend the truck developed a nasty vibration upon acceleration, but went away if I set my cruise or stayed under 30MPH.. I'm guessing CV joints aren't happy. Will probably turn the torsion bars back up a bit to alleviate some of that..or 1" spacers...PITA

I just lowered mine 3" in front and 4" in rear.. 4" definitely needs a C notch and helper bags. 2" should be fine. Look at Mcgaughys helper bags, that's the route I'm going.

So i recently dropped my truck with DJM 3" Lower Arms, and a 4" Shackle/Hanger kit in back.. with DJM shocks in the 4 corners and energy suspension leaf and sway bar bushings. 16 Years of midwest winters really screwed the bolts on my truck..lots of cutting and cussing..lol Anyway, put it all back together and drove it and it was fine, bottomed out a bit over bumps, but drove great other than that. Then filled my gas tank without thinking of the extra weight..That's when my problems started. Thought possibly the U joints may have been going out since they were probably the originals (190K) but it sounded more metal-ish. On my way home from my sons baseball practice, and the drive shaft let go, making the most god awful sound as it bounced from the ground to the floor board and back around again.. Long story short, the aluminum drive shafts are sh*t and rubbing on the cross member will leave you broken. ?, getting a new 3.5" Steel one made now, and will have to C-Notch and probably install helper bags. But it looks good.

Why would you want to lift one?

Is there much difference in the ebay truck bed sides and the GM ones? I know th eGM will be higher quality, but didn't know if I could get away with the Ebay ones

Looks great! Mine is the same shape as yours was, love seeing the transformation, gives me motivation for mine..lol

Look at some of the ridetech shocks.. they are top of the line and are salty, but they are also badass. I'm going to try the calmax shocks on mine when I install the lowering kit on mine

you can also take a turkey injector, fit a piece of hose over it and the top of the and cycle the injector and push fluid through that way also..Removes more of the junk inside

https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-03-07-Chevy-Silverado-LED-DRL-Black-Housing-Amber-Headlights-Bumper-Lamps/372825319151?hash=item56ce1ee6ef:g:ZXoAAOSw6VVesiqC