Bear

Is it something you will feel? Probably not, but due to the need to keep the ETC throttle-bodies clean for proper function, I feel the modification really lends itself to making this task easier and if for nothing else I like it.

Sorry about that, I copied it straight into the thread......... who knows, but you get the idea just the same and at least know where to look.

As far as the oil-pump anti-wear clips go, you can either use the revised clips from GM or possibly a better solution is the kit from Sonnax. Their 100246-02K kit eliminates all metal-to-magnesium contact of the pump by replacing the OE pump tabs with low-friction plastic inserts, and eliminating and the U-shaped steel insert, by replacing the steel clips with plastic clips and also includes a screwed on wear plate to keep the aluminum pump body from making direct contact to the case. I haven't seen where anyone has done it with the NVG-149 case, but it is a common practice with other cases to use a wider/stronger chain. While I can't say, it may be possible with the 149 as well.

As far as the stock components go for the 2003 thru 2005 ½ models with 4-wheel disc brakes: Front Caliper Size – 51mm twin-piston iron PBR Front Disc Size – (in/mm) 12.01 x 1.14in / 305 x 29mm Rear Caliper Size – 45mm twin-piston aluminum PBR Rear Disc Size – (in/mm) 13.00 x 1.18in / 330 x 30mm

I've had some of the same experience out of carb's as Mr. P and also some different outcomes. I've had excellent experiences with Quadrajet's, Thermoquad's, as well as some Holley's. I had a 4779 Holley 750 prepped by Brad Urban's Carb Shop, that was massaged to a 930cfm unit and it worked like a dream, even in an auto, albeit with a loose converter. My personal suggestion for smooth running street carburetor is a prepped Quadrajet, with a good reliable fuel system, due to the Quadrajet's not having a comparable sized fuel bowl compared to most other carburetors on the market. If not, I would also look towards something like the vacuum secondary Road Demon 625. Too bad Edelbrock quit reproducing the Rochester's, as they gave you a decent option to build off of being new.

The previous dyno numbers were with the "stock" to his truck 78mm intake manifold.

The LQ4 ratings were anywhere from 300hp in the 2500/3500 series trucks to as high as 335hp in the 2006 Yukon Denali's. As stated earlier, yes there are some mechanical differences between the earlier model LQ4's and LQ9 that are beefier components such as the rods and flat-top pistons with coated skirts and floating pins, but other than 6-tenths higher compression there are no mechanical differences to account for the large disparity in power ratings other than exhaust, tuning and the basic desire to keep the engines appearing different between the models. The coated piston skirts and stronger rods with floating piston pins as used in the LQ9/LS2 engines were later added to the LQ4’s as well, making the differences even more minor.

The 2001 / 2002 Yukon Denali and the 2002 Escalade used the NVG-149, while all later model SUV’s used the BorgWarner units. The trucks on the other hand did use the NVG-149 in the 2001 Sierra C³, 2002 thru 2007 Classic Sierra Denali and of course the 2003 thru 2005 ½ Silverado SS.

Most people don’t have an issue, but every once and a while someone does, so if this is your 1st go around I would measure the installed distance of the balancer as it sits installed on the engine before you remove it. That way you can guarantee yourself that it is fully installed when you go back together with it, as the balancers are pretty tough for some to install and some give up thinking it’s all the way installed, when it’s not and then end up having issues with keeping a belt on it and then have to go back and finish the job. Of course I also recommend an installer or piece of all-thread in lieu of trying to push it back on with the crank bolt, as it’s not worth the risk of damaging the threads in the end of the crank. A lot of people get away with it, but then again a lot of people don’t……..your choice, do you feel lucky?

Unfortunately there are no solutions for a locking differential for the 8.25" axles. The aftermarket has deemed them too weak to handle one. It's funny that they offered for the 7.25" in the smaller trucks and they are offered for the 9.25" in the 3/4 and 1 Ton's, but notta for us. There has been a few people that have swapped to the larger 9.25" units in 4WD's, but it's far from a bolt-in and would require a decent amount of fabrication to mount one, but it is possible.

Chase, don’t fool around with your arm too early and do go through the physical therapy if you feel you need it and not just a doctor pushing it for the money. If you feel it’s necessary, by all means do it. I went down on a bike and shattered my knee back in ’01 and developed muscle atrophy. It got so bad that I could feel the bone by pushing in on the side of my thigh. I ended up going through steroid injections to try to help speed up the recovery of the muscles in my leg. What ended up happening was my other leg kept getting stronger instead, due to me constantly going up stairs or what ever with the good leg 1st. It was almost to the point it was funny looking, because my pants leg was tight on the strong leg and real loose on the other. It’s been almost 10 years and my leg is decently strong now, but still not compared to the other and the knee is definitely still not a 100% or really even close. I was one that was too tough to go through the therapy and just maybe that was a mistake, one that I would hate to see anyone else make just because they thought it was a girly thing to do. Sometimes manning up is the childish thing to do after all. It’s damn sure a decision you could regret the rest of your life. Good luck bro and here's to a speedy recovery.

That doesn't sound very good at all. Did they just mess up one of your new bearings or did they crack the pulley? If you do find yourself just needing to get it back together until you can get a replacement, if you don't already have it done. Remember, I did post a couple of part numbers in your original thread for a stock style 100mm pulley. They don't look near as nice, but they will get the job done in the interim.

I can't thank you enough for building a unit that has held up to a fair amount of abuse, even though the nay-sayer's of the world say it just won't happen. Thanks again; Jarrod

Actually FLT recommended going vacuum modulated in a boosted application and really and truly I’ve come to like it. I also had them upgrade to the billet servos over the typical Vette unit they install and I found it a little too harsh, so I ended up adding back shift timing to soften it up a little. Of course they already install a billet 3-4 as part of the Level V unit, and maybe I shouldn’t have second guessed them about the Vette servo, but things feel good with the shift timing the way it is now. I know just about everyone say’s to zero it out with a built unit, but my kidneys couldn’t take it.

As with anything, things can be hit or miss, outside of right out being taken for a ride. But anyway, I've had my FLT vacuum modulated LVL V with billet shafts installed since the latter part of 2006 and over 55k miles, it has always had a Radix w/2.8" pulley in front of it, sporadic shot's of a 75hp hit and has never had a single hiccup in that time. It may die tomorrow, but I would say it's held up remarkably well thus far.