SinisterSS
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Posts posted by SinisterSS
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After selling my SS back in May, not having a good handling powerful truck was driving me nuts.
Thankfully I was able to get my SD just before the current GM troubles.
'08 w/ AWD, NAV, roof, block heater and 20s.
Ja, ja, crappy photo I know. Better coming soon in the daylight!
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The knock after the shift could be several things such as -
VE too bumpy/lean in that area
Too much timing at high boost, low rpm
Exhaust/headers banging
Torque management
Wideband, wideband, wideband - look into upgrading your setup so you can log the wideband data along with your scanning software.
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It's been many moons since I did a relearn on my SS - fuzzy memory says the fuel cut off automatically at about 4k rpm during the relearn procedure.
One doesn't need to floor it, just give it a good amount of throttle to briskly bring the rpms up and let off as soon as the rpms cut out.
Another fuzzy memory thing - The engine coolant has to be up to temp. Park brake on? (really fuzzy)
EFILive walks through all that so I didn't need to remember...
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Great price for an awesome truck.
The GM mod bug is worse than model airplanes and R/C cars...just try to resist; I dare you.
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You'll have to pry the SS from my cold dead hands.
And since they don't depreciate much, it'll be a while yet before I buy red and blue versions to finish off the SS collection.
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Hit a set of nasty rough railroad tracks today and it caused the rear tailpipe section to slide off the Corsa muffler.
The result is a very different sound - the same tone but it's much more "under" the bed than shooting out the RH side of the truck. WOT never sounded so cool. Even without the tailpipe, there still wasn't any in-cab resonance.
A turn down and a little better support at the rear of the Corsa muffler would be a cool mod for driver enjoyment.
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Rescaling the MAF is necessary for accuracy's sake, especially with a blower.
The wideband is used to dial in the VE in speed density mode. Then renable the MAF and calibrate the MAF. With those things done, what you put for an A:F at WOT will be what is delivered.
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Whistle = air leak?
Growling Outlaw here too.
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If your e-fans aren't keeping it cool, are you still running the stock tune? If so, get the PCM reprogrammed to kick the fans on at a lower temp like 195 instead of the 220+ stocker.
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Yes, changing the MAF table will affect the fuel trims.
When in PE mode, the PCM will use the MAF for fueling.
To accurately dial in your tune (VE, MAF & PE), you should get a wideband O2 sensor. It's the best $300 performance investment you can make.
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F = 5"
R = 5.5"
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Hold still so I can eat you...
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Haven't heard of too many people in love the GT II.
For my SS, I'm in the same boat as you now and have been debating between General Grabber UHP or BFG KDW 2 in something like a 295/50, 295/45, 285/50 or 275/45.
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Quick observations from your bin file -
- The VE table looks reasonable from 400 to 2000 rpm. Above 2000 rpm and the WOT areas need help.
- PE (WOT) mixture looks ok if that is what is actually being burned.
- PE enable at 90% is too high. Drop it to roughly 40% at 0 rpm and taper to 10% at 7200 rpm. This will help with the knock.
- The high-octane spark map appears to have too much timing in the areas where it starts making boost. One spot that sticks out is the 2400 to 5200 areas from 0.021 to 0.028 oz/cyl. This area would cause knock "getting on it". As for the 22 degrees in the boost area at low rpms - I'd be surprised if it could handle that much without perfect fueling to match (need WBO2).
- Drop the low octane spark map down across the board by 4, 6 or even more degrees lower than the high octane map to use the low octane table the way it was meant to and save the engine. Having values higher in the low octane map than the high-octane map should only be done if one is tuning in OL. Once done with OL, put it back like described above for safety.
- There are many other little things that are "different"...the "fingerprint" of tuning - no one does it the same.
Since you have your own tuning software, the best $300 investments to make is a WBO2 and dial in your entire tune or better yet, buy the WBO2 and work with a good tuner to allow tune and log file exchanges. Tuning software should come with a WBO2 - anything else is just guessing.
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Good job Bill.
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Riding off into the night...
The garage door code took a bit...
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With the heat wave my brain is thinking snow. Twisted I know.
The original tires on the SS are due up for replacement before winter hits and I'm debating between the BFG All-Terrain T/A KO tires in either 285/55 SR20 or 325/60 SR20.
Realizing the 285s will fit the wheel very nicely and perform theoretically better in the snow than the 325s, I'm still torn by how sweet the 325s would look with the extra tread width.
Will 325s look stupid on a 8.5" wheel since they are pushing the limits of the recommend rim width? Will I really give up that much on winter driving in 2-6" of snow? Tire height is not a problem, EFILive and lift kits take care of those problems. ;)
The BFGs will be going on stock size and offset 20 x 8.5" Weld Racing Velociti 6 forged wheels.
No, I'm not buying Toyo tires...and my SS is a 100 mph AWD sled hauling machine in the winter, not some sissy fair weather lowered truck that never gets off asphalt.
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Yep, HPT is the one that's wrong.
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Yes. Git 'er done.
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Tuner toolbar: Edit -> Configure display units... -> All -> Imperial -> Ok
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There's nothing better than pulling a trailer full of sleds effortlessly at 110+ mph in a SSS.
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The "PM" was to me. The SS needs new shoes.
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In 2003, the production was:
6,117 Black
2,802 Red
1,103 Blue
Making a total of 10,028 Silverado SSs.
How Is The Ss In The Snow?
in General SS
Posted
Snow demands real tires. 285/55-20 BFG All Terrain T/A KO