sr1032

Hello, I have an 03 SS that I need a new drivers side seat bottom as it has the typical cracked and messed up leather now, it's the gray leather. The dealer wants an arm and a leg for the leather and then I still have to pay someone to put it on. Figured I would see if anyone has some old seat bottoms laying around that are still in good shape that I could buy from there or perhaps the kit itself they'd be willing to part with. If not no worries but I appreciate your time! Shawn

Took the water pump off and pulled the cover for the impeller off. Smoking gun there, the impeller is pressed onto the shaft (not the best design) and it wasn't even on there anymore, so it would seem it was making contact occasionally allowing coolant to somewhat flow and not ruin my motor but finally busted loose. Swapped it out and she's back to normal.

All signs lead to a jacked water pump. I've never seen anything like it, the bottom hose doesn't ever get warm and I can now hear a weird whirring noise from that area. I tried a thermostat tonight and no workie so I'll swap out the pump tomorrow and hope for the best, hoses are good to go and the radiator would have to be royally screwed up to cause this but when I burp the tank there is coolant in the top hose which suggests the radiator is somewhat fine. When I get the pump out I'll fill the radiator and check to make sure it's flowing fine from top to bottom. I don't see how a heater core could cause this at all since the truck overheats and you are correct, it should be able to manage engine heat regardless of heater core flow. I was going to do it tonight but it's dark so I'll wait until tomorrow so I can hook a hose up to the drain barb on the radiator and re-use the brand new coolant I dumped in rather than fork over more money

Hoping to sanity check my thought processes here. 03 Silverado SS, around 124k miles. No engine MODS at all. Replaced the coolant twice since I've owned the vehicle, only owner. The last change was about a year and a half ago and the truck never misses a beat. Took it out today, it's about 57 out so not hot or too cold. About 20 minutes into my drive I hear the ding ding ding that my coolant is hot, shortly after is the awesome reduced engine power and engine overheating, i dropped it to neutral and coasted to a good safe place, by the time I got there it already had dropped back down to about 240ish. I checked the engine bay and everything seemed normal and there were no major leaks so I nursed her home. She would get up to about 250 and never much higher and only have me the engine overheat once, there seemed to be heat coming out at the time but by the time I got home there was zero heat coming out. Here's where I'm at. I let her cool down completely. The belt spins fine, I don't see any water leaks but I haven't checked the weep hole just yet. I topped off the overflow tank and started it up with the cap off, let it run until it hit about 210 and still no heat, no gurgling noise at the time. Replaced the cap and let it go longer, still wouldn't climb higher than around 210ish which is still warmer than normal and there is still zero heat, in fact the hoses to and from the heater don't seem hot. It did take quite a while before I could notice and coolant running through either the upper or the lower lines but I'm not sure how firm they should get and they weren't terribly hot. I'm an old car guy so I'm used to the hoses firming up quite a bit. The water pump seems to be a bit different than what I'm used to so it looks like the thermostat is right there on the front with a couple small bolts and the heater lines both go to the pump as well. So my logic seems to think something is wrong with either the thermostat or the pump but it seems that I have flow on the upper and lower hoses so a thermostat seems a little unlikely to me but I've only ever seen water pumps seize and no other failures. The only other thing to note was that when I pulled the radiator cap after I shut down the coolant dropped back down into the water pump quite a bit, I'm assuming that is normal for the most part and there is still some in the tank so it's obviously not running super low on fluid. Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

Do you have the center console piece that has the cigarette lighter and outlet on it?

As the title reads, looking for a fully functioning passenger mirror for my SS, black in color. My heater doesn't work anymore so I'm looking for a power mirror, heated, turn signal and power folding with puddle lamp. Let me know if you have one and how much you'd like for it. Thanks guys.

I know there is at least one other person looking for one but I'd like to find the GM/Delphi Non-Lux Navigation radio for my truck. Yes I know I could go aftermarket but I'd like to stay as stock as possible. If you have one just shoot me the part number and I'll make sure it'll work. I appreciate your time and consideration and have a good Holiday season. Shawn

I was wondering if anyone knows anybody in the San Diego area that does good taillight tinting, I recently moved here and am unfamiliar with anyone around here. I appreciate the help.

I searched and searched and haven't seen one quite like this so I thought I'd ask the experts. I got home after a long trip and decided to give my baby a little tune up. I cleaned the throttle body and changed some fluids. When I start her up now she jumps up to about 2 grand and then slows down to 1 grand. After a few seconds she'll drop to normal 550ish. When I put it in gear it will jump up and basically go on it's own, she'll carry herself almost to 1500 if I don't put the brakes on. So I took everything off and made sure my clamps were tight to make sure I didn't have an intake leak. Same thing. I've sprayed every spot I can think of with carb cleaner to try to find the leak all to no avail. Another thing is while I drive the truck will keep going when I let off the brakes, it's like there is no engine braking at all. She runs fine through all the ranges and seems to have the normal response I would expect. I have a AEM Brute Force intake and this is driving me up the wall. Any ideas or troubleshooting techniques, I hate to waste $300 on a throttle body to find out it's not the throttle body. Also, it seems to be quite worse in gear...

Is it normal for the A/C to keep working if the compressor has seized? The A/C still works flawlessly right now other than the noise it makes. As for the accumulator, why do I need to replace this? I'm not even sure what it does but it just seems like a storage unit for the high and low pressure? Thanks for the reply.

US Navy, fixing to roll over 10 short years, 10 long more to go.

Hey all, Hoping someone on here might know what to do. On a trip to Idaho last week I started to get a wicked rattle in the engine compartment when I would hit about 2K after a cold start, it was really loud and not like anything I'd heard before. At the next stop it did it again so I got out and had the ol lady rev the motor while I was under there. I was watching the tensioner on the A/C belt just go friggin crazy. It was moving so much that it was creating the rattle. I also noticed during this time that the lines near the accumulator at the fire wall were making a hissing noise. So once I got to Boise I took it in to a shop and of course they couldn't duplicate the problem but did say that my tensioner may be bad, I didn't really buy that since that wouldn't describe the hissing noise. It only seems to do it when the truck is cold as it only happens every now and then. I don't want to pull the belt yet but I think that's where I'm headed. My question's are... 1. Has anyone ever seen this, I was told the compressor may be going bad but I don't know how to verify it. 2. Any possibility that the tensioner is in fact bad? I have one on the way but I'm not sure how tight it should be for just an A/C belt, it is pretty loose, I can pull it with little effort. 3. I have a compressor on the way, how hard is it to change? I don't mean the actual swap, that's fairly straight forward but I've never messed with an active A/C system. Some people say have it evac'd, other's say just pull it and then have it serviced afterward. Which is true, I'm fairly mechanical and would just assume do the bulk of the work myself. 4. Any other ideas? Thanks everyone, I'm sure someone here has seen something similiar. Shawn

Thanks for the comments, as for the G2G I'll do my best but that's a couple days before I'm headed out on another WESTPAC cruise so I'll be gone for six months. If I get everything done I'll head out there, hope the weather is beautiful then.

They are Verde wheels and they are 20". Thanks for the compliment, I like them quite a bit, they really set off the black and chrome look I was going for.

Well I live in beautiful Washington where it rains most of the year, it was so nice today I finally got out and cleaned the ol lady. Probably only gonna last a couple days but it's worth it!!!

I bought these from a fellow SSS member and didn't really care for the style too much on my truck. I'm not looking for anything ridiculous, if someone's interested shoot me an offer. They list for anywhere from $120 to $160 on eBay and practically brand new. They do have some cool features but not quite for me so I kept the lowers and would like to offload the lamps. Thanks. Shawn

I have a practically brand new PAC iPod adaptor, uPAC-GMC2, that I should be pulling out soon. It is a really nice adaptor that shows the text and lets you fully navigate the iPod. It also has an aux input that you can use anything with a RCA or mini jack on or hook up the optional HD tuner. Since I've only used it for about two weeks I'd like to get $100 shipped OBO, let me know, thanks. Shawn

Do you have a GM Part Number for it and what year/model it came out of?

Does anyone have the piece on the center console that has the cigarette lighter, aux power port and the two cubbies for storage? Need to replace one that was painted with the stock black one. Thanks.

I'd like to use an iPod adaptor, probably the GMC2 but I have a question. I have an 03 with Bose but no XM and a 6 disc changer. XM isn't even an option when I hit the band button or the CD/Aux button either, will these adapters work for me?