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crazybuffalocb

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Posts posted by crazybuffalocb

  1. I got a buddy at work that needs a transfer case and would be super interested. Any idea on a price?

     

     

    not really priced anything yet, was wanting to get an idea of what people would give on certain things to give me an idea if its worth my time to part it. if i could find somebody to bite on the rear ends, transfer case, tranny, and motor, id be fine w/ parting it just would like to have all that lined up before i do that. ask him about what hed be looking to spend on one and we'll go from there

  2. carl its gold with black on the bottom. ill try to upload a picture or two today. and as far as the 6.0 goes, i really dont know, thought id see what kind of offers i got on it to decide wether or not its worth trying to part it. thunder, the interior is the work vinyl, which is in good shape everywhere except for the drivers seat, its pretty rough. it also has the jump seat, not fold down console.

  3. hey, checking the market for some 2500hd 4wd stuff. bought a whole truck, with clear, non salvage title, title reads 68k, odometer reads 110k. 6.0l lq4 with iron heads starts and runs excellent, 4l80e that reverse went out on, and is ready to be reassemled (cleaned checked, etc just needs clutches they said) reman transfercase, both rear ends good (dont know ratio, but can check if somebody knows it by the vin, or if its in the glove box) cab is good and straight, but is a 3 door, and like a lot of three doors, is having serious rust issues in the non door cab corner. doors are both good and straight, as is the excab door, hood has one small dent in the front, all headlights are good, grill i think is broken on one end, both fenders are dented, both bedsides are dented. complete truck. would part it out completely, just shoot me some offers and requests of parts and ill see if its worth my time to part it.

     

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  4. oh i definately agree, they will be highly inconsistant in comparison to a good automatic, regardless of driver. and the ls trannys are much better internally than the lt trannys from what i understand. as far as the mods to make them work, check out http://performancetrucks.net/forums/showthread.php?t=381877 the swap doesnt seem to be too horible, the entire reason behind this is that my buddy has a complete lt tranny swap, and i had heard that the lts worked, just didnt know if anybody had looked in to it, i kind of figured with an appropriate pilot bushing, ls flywheel, and the rest lt stuff, that it might all line up since a muncie does, but not sure. i do agree that it will probably grenade the rear, but thats one of those things that ill cross if i ever get to it lol. if i could get it all swapped and make it work, i wouldnt care to have it sent off and built heavily, i just hate to invest 12-1400 in a tranny thats going to bust from an ls that i may never get swapped, as opposed to the 700 i can get the other setup for. the place in texas that did chris broughtons car, did a stage 3 rebuild on his for i think 1300 and we banged it for quite some time with absolutely no issues, but as you said thats in a lightweight fbody, not a heavy ass truck... only time will tell. im thinking about trying to source enough parts from friends here there and yonder to just test fit it all up under the 2500 series truck and if it works, then fool with pulling it out, otherwise, i guess ill sell the 2500 whole or part it. do you think there would be much of a market for the parts off it?

  5. Im not to sure on all the technical info but I wouldnt even waste your time with a t56 in a truck it wont hold up for long especially a heavy 2500, a friend of mine had one in his RCSB silverado and it was always breaking and the last time it broke it was a viper spec t56 and it still broke. Those trannys are ment to be in a light weight car. Id just rebuild the 80e. Some might say the t56 will be fine but everyone I know that has done one has taken it out because they just dont last. I really cant imagine it lasting in a 2500. And if your 2500 is 4wd then the t56 wont work anyways I dont think. Plus if you do a t56 itll be quite a bit of work, youll have to make a crossmember and install all the pedals and most likley get a custom drive shaft made possibly change gears and if you have a stock G80 in the truck youll want to get rid of that because that will most likley break too. The 80e is already an awesome tranny id just have that rebuilt

     

    i think i may have left out certain details that made it confusing.lol. my white truck, the lowered ss clone, has a 6.0 in it with a 4l60e, which is out again also btw.. but anyway, i recently bought a 99 2500 that i was going to rob the 6.0 out of if i could make it work. but that does sound very discouraging, but ive always wanted one in it, and will eventually swap in one from an ls or do this swap and the one for an lt if it would work, it would just be more cost efficeient for me. im thinking about selling off the 80, and the rear ends and parting the rest of the truck in an effort to save that 6.0 for a later project

     

    On the subject at hand though, i did find where people are putting muncie 4speeds behind ls engines with different bells, lol i still have hope

  6. hey, i just got in a 99 2500 hd truck with reverse out.(4l80e) i was thinking of doing a part out if i cant sell it, and i read up and i had read, brace yourself, that because of the longer crank, that old style transmissions would bolt straight up to it, no spacer, no fly wheel mod, etc etc. heres the kicker, they claim that w/ this style 6.0, you cant run a t56 for an ls, but that you can potentially run one from an lt. any insight, or anybody have any of it laying around to mock up? if its doable, i know where a good lt 6 speed is pretty reasonably, and if that'll work, ill be pulling out my 6.0, and swapping the heads from mine to it, and using the lt 6 speed. any info is appreciated.

  7. i personally like fiberglass products, hoods especially. the trick though is you have to get a good hood before the mold is used to the point of being wavy, but after the new has worn off of its edges. i have seen a lottt of bad hoods, but generally the worst are the race weight, or the cheap brands, i guess its like they say, you get what you pay for. IMO i think the hood looks great, but 1500 is a war price for it. like 1st said, 400 is fair, maybe even 500 if its something you really like, but i dont see the extra grand worth of paint work, especially not on a solid colored truck. 250-300 is what i would expect to pay on having a hood painted, but thats here, and prices vary all around. just my two cents

  8. gawd a white SS would of been sweet

     

     

    lol thats what i thought, so i found a white ext cab and started building, the bad part was that it was a w/t v6... which has ended up prompting a learning experience or two. ive swapped in power leather, console, then switched it out to an escalade console, power windows, 4 screens (none of which are visors or headrests), lowered it, all the ss cladding, front bumper, iss wing, factory 20's,ive got the rear bumper and tailgate, but have yet to paint it, so it remains in the box will sent it to me in.lol. done quite a bit to it, but the biggest thing was the 6.0l swap.. that was a nightmare, although i honestly believe after i finished it, i could do another one fairly hassle free. but in the end, ive pretty much made my own.lol. still waiting to do the rear brake conversion and cluster. having issues out of the tranny....

     

    but back on subject... sold one set of brake ducts to kim, and not to tell her business, but shipping out to her was only 8 bucks, i also found that it will fit in the flat rate large box, so the highest shipping could be would be 14.95, but probably cheaper on them to your door. if anybody else wants a set, just pm me. an as far as bumpers go, the one on my white truck is one of them. i like mine very much, and if you are fairly local, i can have you one made, and if youll help on gas can try to meet you with it.

  9. hey, had a lot of people asking about brake ducts lately, so i talked to my buddy today, said he would do them for 50 a pair for those who are interested, they fit really well, but come with no holes drilled, nor any grilles. I personally glassed my foglight housings in to the back of them and eliminated a ton of misc bracketry.

    He is also still doing the bumper covers as well if anyone wants one of those, 150, no brackets required for them, mine is screwed on the metal bumper in the wheel well and have never had any issues with it. 150 on the covers.

    Will ship the brake ducts, local pick up only on the covers.

  10. It's from a 95 z28 so I'm not sure it will work on a newer vehicle.

     

     

    not 100 percent sure, but a 95 should have been the first year for the "E" transmissions if im not mistaken, if it has the detatchable bell housing, it should work with minimal effort, should be the same length, you will have to change the shift shaft, which will cost about 12 bucks, but you will have to pull the pan, i might have one laying around actually from working on my tranny. if anything, an ls camaro tranny has extra bolt holes, i bought one with intentions of swapping it in to my clone, but when i pulled the pan on it to change the shaft, i found an inch of clutch dust in the pan, so i bailed. but to make a long story short, should work if its got the removable bell and bolt holes for the prndl box on the side.

  11. ok. lets try this again. no longer a feeler. im looking to sell now, ive found another motor id like to buy. like i said in the other thread, its a 6.0 from a (06 i think) hummer, had a little over 40k on it. from what we have learned in the last thread this is an lq4 motor. has the 317 heads on it. it has flywheel, water pump, brackets, fan, exhaust,oil cooler lines, harness, and is complete intake to pan. only thing missing on the motor is the throttle body. ive pulled the heads, cylinders look good. somebody is welcome to come check it out before the heads go back on, its up to you, otherwise im going to put the top end back on it this week with no bad luck. $1200 obo, or will do some trading.

  12. 317s came on the lq9 and lq4. Pistons make the difference. Lq9 has flat tops and the lq4 has dished.

     

    ive pulled the heads and looked at the cylinders, which if i didnt state before. look good. it has the pistons that are slightly dished. but the heads are what originally came on the bottom end. so im going to assume its the lq4, but its anybodys guess. i just kinda want to bail on the swap project and buy something else.

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