flyin99
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Posts posted by flyin99
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cats are all good. you didnt by chance getting anyhting inside of the pipes or the mufflers cus that might make a little noise.
Don't think so.........it is right with a cylinder hitting......perfect rythm etc....tick tick tick tick tick......but anyways......it is what it is I appreciate the help.
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Got new dual exhaust put on today.....installed 2 1/2" dual pipes and two Magnaflow mufflers. Kept the cats on and cut the pipe, right where it goes from one into two, to connect the new pipes. Fired it up when finished and walked behind it........sounds nice and mellow, then after about 3 or so minutes of walking around the truck, checking it all over, it starts to have a tick sound coming from the right side pipe, out of the exhaust itself. Wierd I thought.........had a buddy come over.....got behind it and said just above idle, it goes away, but when you let it idle, the right side ticks. All of the pipe connections were welded and secured by new hangers. This sound is like it's coming out of the pipes........Took the truck home and let it sit a couple of hours to cool some and started it back.....all was calm for the first couple of minutes or so, then here came the tick........?????
Any ideas on what might do this?.....not bad bad, but just annoying to know it is doing this.......Thanks for any input on the issue...
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had those same exact boxes in my truck a while back running 4 JL w3 10's...absolutely loved it. As long as youve got subs that dont require a whole hell of alot of air space you should be fine.
heres a link to the site i got mine from...a little bit cheaper, every little bit counts! http://www.supercrewsound.com/commerce/pro...15&catId=24
Zach
Thanks Zach!!!!!!!!!!! Every little bit helps
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Yes, you can run 2 woofers in the same box. That box is a bit small though. I made a custom box for under my back seat for 4 10's and I only had .9 cubic feet per chamber, and I cant imagine they got 1.3 unless they were measuring the outer dimensions.
If I were you I would buy that box, but then use the special 10's that are meant to operate in a very small box and see how that works. A normal 10 usually wants about 1 cubic foot of box space, but with 4 10's the most you can get under the seat is .5 cubic feet per woofer. I personally like pioneer's woofers, but look around, a lot of companies are making woofer to work in small boxes now a days
Kewl!!! Thanks for the help on this!! My Boston Acoustics 10"s "according to the paperwork", use .5 ft3 each, so I'm hoping they will work well in this type of enclosure. I appreciate your help!!
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http://www.soundoffaudio.com/item.cfm/id/2252
Can you run 2 subs in a box, without having them seperated (divided by MDF)? I can't really tell, but it looks like each side just holds two subs, but they are in the same space.......won't they fight each other, or am I looking into this wrong?
Thanks, Brad
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Ok well I did this on my last truck and the only parts i purchased were the cover, and the two brake ducts. I made the brackets myself (trust me this is not difficult). All said and done I spent around $600 including paint.
All you need to do it take off the top pad and lower valence from your current bumper and the pad will fit right over, get some double sided tape and fab up some brackets and you're good to go.
If you really want to buy all the factory hardware go ahead (nothing wrong with wanting to make it perfect) just giving you another option.
Here's how it looked on my truck when I was done:
Thanks for the help!!! You're truck is bad ass, on 7 or 8 different levels!!! lol LOVE THAT LOOK!!!!! I can fab up some brackets........just wasn't sure if I had to have the GM's or if the cover would fall off........thanks again!!
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15197889 - License Plate Bracket
15178219 - Crossbar and Grille
12335659 - Front Bumper
12335765 - Front Bumper Grille
12335766 - Passenger Air Duct
12335767 - Driver Air Duct
10360423 - Driver Front Door Molding
10360428 - Passenger Front Door Molding
10360434 - Driver Rear Door Molding
10360441 - Passenger Rear Door Molding
15178226 - Passenger Fender Molding (Behind Front Wheel)
15178227 - Driver Fender Molding (Behind Front Wheel)
88980000 - Passenger Rocker Panel (Under Door Cladding)
88980186 - Driver Rocker Panel (Under Door Cladding)
15178234 - Passenger Rear Fender Molding (Before Rear Wheel)
15178235 - Driver Rear Fender Molding (After Rear Door)
15197858 - Passenger Rear Panel (After Rear Door)
15197857 - Driver Rear Panel (Before Rear Wheel)
88944467 - (Not sure which side) Silverado SS Panel (Behind Rear Wheel)
88980189 - (Not sure which side) Silverado SS Panel (Behind Rear Wheel)
15178282 - Lower Tailgate Molding
15197873 - Tailgate Spoiler
15178667 - Decal on Tailgate
15178666 - SS Letters
Thanks for the list..........As far as brackets go, which ones are needed to do it correctly, on the bumper/cover?
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After searching many boards and topics, I keep getting different numbers from different people. Just to confirm, I went to a dealer site and they said they had no idea what it took to do a conversion, but sent me a pic of the parts I would need. I surely wouldn't need every little item on here........right? My truck is just an 06 Silverado 1500, but I want the look of a 03-04-05 SS....going to get a scoop hood, but other then that, I was looking into GM stuff, but dealers are so picky.........even had a couple tell me the fenders were different..........I doubt that, but I've been wrong before. Does anyone have an updated parts list of GM numbers, that it take to do this conversion? Thanks!!
Brad
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blown06 on pt.net done it
http://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/sh...+lug+conversion
darkhalo also was in the process of doing it but dont know how far he got, i personally dont think he finished the rear yet
heres the info he left on the forum pt.net
I am near complete on my 5 lug install. I have went from the factory 6 lug to a 5x4.75 bolt pattern. Moser provided all the machine work to make it happen as well as a new set of axles. Sorry I did not take any pics of the front before install but I will take pics as I do the rear tonight. Moser welded and drilled my front hubs, rotors, and the rear rotors. I will be installing the new axles later today but my rear rotors will not be in until the 19th of next week. I bought the front hubs and rotors from a member here on the board who had the work done from moser then I bought new rotors for the rear and had them sent to Moser. I have $300 in the front and about $480 in the rear all parts were brand new. Moser charges 80 per pair to weld and drill, I think this includes axles as well, if you do not want to have some built. New axles were only $295.
Thanks for the info........mine is just a two wheel drive, so I wasn't sure how to get the front converted. I appreciate the info!!!
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I probably put this in the wrong section and I apologize, but I have been searching the web, trying to find a way to convert these Silverados from 6 lug to 5 lug. Has anyone done this or can lead me in the right direction, on how to do so? I know not everyone would want to, but the wheels I want are only in 5 lug pattern, like for the older trucks and I really would like to convert this one. I appreciate any help on this. Thanks!!!
Question About The Gmpp Ls1 Hot Cam....
in Engine Tech And Modification
Posted
Running a 5.3, like in my 1500, will the Hot Cam require a larger stall, or will the stock one work with this cam? I hear everybody say it idles like stock, but then if you go to youtube, it doesn't sound like mine does stock.......lol. Just wanted to make sure, before I drop some cash on the Scoggin Dickey gang. Thanks for any help.