1quicktruck

Made some pictures . On the top right tab of the 3157 socket I used a dremel and shave half of the tab off and it fits in the 4114. Didn't have to use the tab lock as it is plenty tight.. Notice the 3157 is used but no burning anywhere.

Has anyone priced a 4114 socket. They are 20.00 to 30.00 . Salvage yards have them but they are getting scarce and if they have them they run about 15.00. I looked at the 4114 sockets and after use they turn brown ,cracked,melted and crumble. I then got to thinking of the 3157 socket which are dirt cheap at the salvage yards and compared the two. Some 3157 sockets have 3 wires while the 4114 has two. No big deal. Just delete the third wire(you don't need it) and some have 2. The only difference I see is the socket fins are different to line up with the housing to fit into the tail light. I was thinking to take a dremel and grind down the notches to fit into the housing. Havent tried it yet but thought this might be a good substitute for the high priced 4114 drl. You can run led bulbs in the 4114 socket and they will live if you tap into the blue wire and run a 15ohm-1/2 watt resistor. This will cut the 14v down to about 12v give or take a little. The led bulb will live as I have done this before.

I have only a supercharger on a stock engine and I run as walbro gss340. No mods for install . Be careful as China is making knockoffs on this pump. I bought mine off of ebay for around $70. You can look up the specs on this pump. Hope this helps.

I have been buying HIDs off of Ebay and I ran across this new HID called FAST BRIGHT. The ballast are very small and at first I installed them without reading the instructions as I have installed many hids. Guess what ? The metal side is the heat sync and it get very hot. Do not mount these near any plastic . As far as longevity ,the jury is still out on that one. I forgot to mention on the instructions it said 'Test the lights for 10 minute to make sure they are operating correctly' I took this as to mean 'If it doesn't catch fire it could be ok'. Another point and I do not ship anything but I buy items off of Ebay and have had good luck with the hids I have bought. In 3 yrs I have had only 1 ballast , a 1 bulb come back . I buy the lower price hids and they are not AC type and I have sold many on Craigs List. I think they have improved a lot. Just remember the LED headlights will not fit into our headlight brackets on most of our trucks, maybe on the newer trucks with the H11 setup may have more room as the LED protrude too far back in the housing to fit. I installed them on my 05 Malibu and they work ok. Instant on but not as bright as 35w hids. Longeviy, I don't know.

I am sorry about posting the last 2 post on this subject as the reply said I took too long to post so I shortin the post a bit not knowing they all took . My bad. Just blame my age. CRS

On 4th Gss340 Walbro. They all look legit 100%. The 1st one was making too much noise and I thought it was going out but I didn't know that Walbro make a lot of noise. This last one I bought myself of Ebay(4) and he says it is made by Walbro so I emailed him and asked if is was a real Walbro and he said indeed it was. The 3rd one was bought by a mechanic so I don't know what it was but I told him I needed a Walbro gss340 and it only lasted 90 days. I had the 4th one installed yesterday(The one I bought off Ebay) which is supposedly a real Walbro I ordered another backup off ebay from a Walbro dealer and it is a Walbro gss340 manufactured in the USA and made by Walbro(5th pump). I know about the China fakes but all of these pumps look like the real deal. I know you say you get what you pay for and I am always looking for a bargin but some of these guys are wanting 100 to 200 for a complete kit and buying the pump only is a little cheaper and I am not paying 100 dollars for something I can get for 78.00 and is really a Walbro (I hope)

I just had number 4 fuel pump installed.. They all looked like the original one that I had changed because it was making noise which is a trait of that pump. The ones removed look identical to the 1st pump but didn't last , number 2 lasted 3 years but only 3,000 miles . Number 3 lasted 90 days and 600 miles . I bought number 4 off ebay and it looks 100% real deal. I called Walbro and he said it looks legit but who knows. Went on Ebay and bought a backup. He states he is a Walbro dealer and it is 100% Walbro pump Gss340. I got this for a backup in case the new pump fails. I know you will say you get what you pay for but some of these dealers are at 100 and 200 and they all look the same. I know about the China fakes but I have looked these pumps over and I cannot tell any difference by just looking.

I have not been on here lately so I thought I would make another post. Just turned 73 on Aug 6th and still kicking. Here my rant, I am on my 4th fuel pump. The original pump was making a lot of noise in 04 so I had it change (didn't know that was a walbro trait) . Next one lasted about 4 years but had less that 3,000 miles. I had it changed and didn't get to see what it looked like(brand) but was suppose to be a walbro. Number 3 pump was bought by a mechanic and I told him I needed a walbro gss340 and he said he got one. It last 90 days and less than 600 miles. I ordered number 4 off ebay and it is suppose to be the real deal. Manufacture said Walbro and looks identical to the original one I got in 04. The logo looks 100% . Price was 66 and changed so I called Walbro and he said the guy looked legit but was only making a few dollars if indeed it was a Walbro. Just in case it goes out quickly I just bought another one for backup as no one stocks that pump locally. Again I bought off Ebay and this guy says he is a Walbro dealer and states this is a real Walbro pump and has all markings as number 4 (compared to original 100%) and USA made. Some of the Supercharge dealers want anywhere from 100 to 200 for their pumps and a kit so I hope I made a good deal and have not been taking to the cleaners again. Lesson not learned , I am looking for the real deal at a bargain and I know you will say 'You get what you pay for' but one thing I have learned is there are good deals and some dealers try to may a ton off of one sale so you cant blame me looking for a good deal.

Called Magnacharger and they said it took a Walbro GSS340.

I have only drove my truck about 3 thousand miles in about 3 years . I have never let the gas get below 1/2 tank. Premium fuel 100 gas. has about 88000 miles and I had the fuel pump changed maybe 4 ,5 or 6 years ago. I started up and got about 7 miles . It hiccup a couple of times and died. Would not start . I beat on the tank .Nogo and no pump noise. Question , On a supercharge 5.3 magna charger which pump do I need ? I have heard a Walbro GSS 342 is what I need but when I search EBAY and put in my truck chevy 2004 5.3 its says it isn't compatiable ? I have only about 430 hp and it is in the range of fuel. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I have always had this done at a speed shop and I don't really know which pump

Don't get confused with the flasher thing as this is just a voltage reducer. My truck is totally led as I had my speedo done and the only thing not is the right side controls such as air/heat/fan. I have a led flasher wich eliminated all of the load resistors on the turn signals . You can run leds in anything that doesn't flash with no problem. Beware of China bulbs saying t20 with 3157 bulbs. T20 is a 7443 which looks like a 3157 but is slightly smaller. Buy only T25/3157 bulbs or 194 goes in doors,tag,map light and 3rd brake light,cargo light (haven't found one bright enough) Dome 42mm.

My truck is an 04 and the lights only come on when its in a dark place. I put early leds high output in the high beams and leave on the high beams until its dark then I use my low beams hids. If you pull your daytime running bulbs you will notice the socket will show signs of being too hot, they even may start to cumble due to high heat from the 4114(14v) bulb. I have heard some guys running 3157 bulbs but generally they wont last long however some guys report they have had good luck with that bulb. That socket is running 14v and it gets a lot of heat. I installed the resistor in my sons 2002 Tahoe with the 3157 led and so far after 9mos it is still going strong. By the way I put 55w 6k hids in my truck and it is way overkill. The 55w bled out most of the blue and they are almost prue white. Very little hint of blue. I have hids in the fogs (35w 6k) and I love them. So far the cheap ebays hids have worked fine for me and I sell them on Craigs list. I have had two with bad lead wires and have sold over 24 sets. I would love to run the leds but the Malibu and the trucks fogs are the only place for them. They now have fast bright hids that lamp up in one second, so I have ordered several sets. Funny thing the 55w fast bright are cheaper than the 35w fast bright. This is a good thing as you can run hids low and high without 7 seconds of no lights(especially switching from low to high) unless you've done the mod to run all 4 lights.

Daytime running bulbs are on Ebay. Regular 3157 wont hold up very long. It calls for a 4114 which is a 14volt bulb. On ebay there are two vendors selling legit daytime running bulbs . One has them for about 20 and it says for GM products with the voltage spikes .The other guy gets around 32 dollars and I have been running his bulb for 4 years and no problem. I read an article where a guy went to radio shack and bought a resistor to limit the socket to a max of 12 volts which is fine for a regular led bulb but if you put a regular led bulb in the 4114 socket without the resistor you might get 2 or 3 days out of it before it blows Sorry for rattling on but I have been there and done that.

I am running cheap HIDs on my Malibu. Had to disconnect daytime headlights. Hids do not like daytime headlights. I never start my car with Hids on. I have halogen on high beams. I use the cheap hids only at night. 35w 6k is around 3200 lumens . halogen high beams are around 1700. 55w hids are too bright in my way of thinking.. If you get 5k they are bright white. 6k has a hint of blue. Leds have come a long way. The first ones looked bright but did not project light very far. Good for daytime driving only. The second generation had ballast and a cooling fan at the back of bulb. The next generation has cooling fins at the end of the bulb about one inch long. I cound not get this bulb to fit in the bracket after inserting it into the headlight. It protrudes too far out to fit into the holding bracket. As far as light outout around 2400 lumens,instant on and no ballast. Around 55.00 on ebay. I put a set on a 2008 Chevy truck with no problems. They make a 20w and a 30w. The 30w put out pretty close between 35 and 55w hid. Look on ebay for led headlight and expect to pay 50 to 65 dollars. As far as lasting long, I have no idea as of yet.. I do have room on my Malibu for the leds and yes they would work in your fogs as you have unlimited space. . The holding bracket in our trucks get in the way or I would be running led high beams. They are plenty bright instant on and no ballast.

If I am not mistaken I think flex fuel or the e85 has stainless gas lines. Does that kinda make you think twice about e85 and above. I was told by the Chevy deal if you run it more than once you might have a melt down

I just ran into this topic and I have LED headlights off of ebay and they are super bright. The first generations were bright but did not project. Next came the fan version and ballast. The newest generation uses cooling fins and no ballast. Here is where the problem is. On a 2004(TRUCK) after you install the LED it wont fit because the fins protrude too far out. On a 2008 which uses 2011 and 2005 they have the room to run this type of light and they come in 20w (2200 to 2400) and 30w (cant remember that but its more) My 2005 Malibu has the room. Look on ebay and search for led headlight kits. They start around 50.00 and becareful as the ones starting at 25 to 30.00 are for one . These vendors try to fool you thinking you are buying a set. Take it from me I was taking the bait . Hook line and sinker

My Led headlights came in and the problem is that the cooling fins protrude too far out. You cant get the headlight assembly in place unless you want to modify the bracket holding the headlight assembly in back by the bulb. If you do a search of Led headlights on EBAY you will see what I am talking about. HIDs are cheaper, its just these are instant on so I thought I would try them but I am not willing to start modifying the headlight bracket in back by the bulbs and it still may be close as they are a good size at the end of the bulb. They appeared to give good light but not as bright as HIDs..

Has anyone tried the new generation LED headlights without the fan built in ? If so will the stock headlight housing on 2004 trucks project correctly ? They advertise 2400 lumens but I wonder if you have to have newer style headlight (the ones that funnel the beam) (projector ).

Fantastic. I lost my original tranny at 50k. Could have been heavy foot into the supercharger.

I am one of the oldest guys on the site and I still love it. I have found a ton of info and I post if I find something of interest. True about our trucks getting old and other projects take over but I am true blue to the site. I don't like the bickering but I just ignore it .You know what they say about opinions " There like as@holes everybodys got one" I do see the same questions ask again and I could be guilty myself. I do try the search bar but if it comes up blank then I ask the question. The knowledge on this site is a wealth of info...

I went back to the Chevy dealership and they said if its an electrical problem , the first thing they look for is an after market radio.

I went back to the dealer ship and found out from the mechanic that when you have an electrical problem the first thing they look for is an after market radio..

It had been in the suv for sometime but he was having some trouble with something. I cant remember what. What is funny is I saw a power supply attached to the underhood fuse box and that fuse was pulled so I really don't know how it was fixed.

It was an after market amp . I don't know all the details but he must have been having some issues because the box speaker was not in the car and had not been in there for some time.. I really don't know how it was wired but I just don't understand why something like this would cause the ignition to fowl up and other electric systems to go nuts.

My son has a 2003 Tahoe and he called me and said he only had 3rd gear and could not kill the engine.When he got to my house I pulled the fuse on the fuel pump to kill the engine and still with the key off ,all the dash lights were still on . He also had a noise in the rear speaker. Pulled the batt pos cable to reset the computer. Tranny problem cleared but still you could not turn the engine off. You had to pull the fuse to the fuel pump and disconnect the batt or it would drain if you left it attached. Read somewhere on the internet someone had a similar problem and it was related to a brake switch. Somehow all this electronic equipment does strange things. It turned out that my son's rear amp had a hot wire that was pinched and shorting out. Don't know why it didn't blow a fuse but I had to take it in to have a shop to find the problem and now all is ok. I just thought I would share this info because my first thought was the key tumbler or the switch just below the key inside the steering column.