SYRacing
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Posts posted by SYRacing
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I am working on getting my SSS back to life, I had a roll pan out back due to the cost of an OEM bumper cover after mine cracked. I put it in the weeds and forgot about it.
Well last week I purchased the correct bumper cover, found the now obsolete bat wing brackets and the necessary hardware to put it back together.
I'm unable to locate the inner frame brackets though. I see on parts websites they list 15705673 and 15705674 in the description " Fleetside with 0 SS, without heavy duty. Stepside."
Can somebody confirm these are correct for a true SSS?
Thanks!!!
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I'll take it PM me your Paypal addy
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Your choice of trans is going to make this a very interesting truck, you can launch where any cam wants to...if you can drive it right and not stall on the line if the AWD dry hooks. My first impression of your attitude is...you want to go fast and will deal with the side effects? Exactly...Already considering building a leaf sprung 9" and getting rid of the gov-bomb 10b
Are you sure about the first gear on the trans i can't find that gear listed. I found 3.01? You are right, sorry about that. Typo.
Your head choice and reason is pretty good, no one wants their truck to be down for 4 weeks while their stock heads get ported. The 243 heads are, as far as i know, the best factory casting to go with based on the chamber design. Even though our stock heads flow very close to them(or the same), the 243 heads are supposed to have a quench pad in the design and offer better compression. The info i have lists the 243 heads at 65 cc so with the stock gasket you would be around 10.87, not including ring height and bore clearance and gasket volume. To hit the 11.1 you said you would need to run the .041 cometic gasket, 11.15. And i would definitely go this route. As a matter of fact, after porting i would ask the heads to be checked at 64cc to get 11.29. That is the only thing I feel the 243s have going for them is the boost in compression. Flow #s aren't that impressive compared to the 317s. HOWEVER, I may have changed directions, after I talked to a buddy he told me to just buy the L92s he has. Already have the offset rockers and like 100 miles total on them. So then I would need a L92 intake from an escalade or something.. If I have to mill the 243s why not just mill the L92s and leave them unported? Probably have much more room to grow out of the L92s anyway. Bottom end is bone stock with 100K so at some point its going to need a set of forged pistons and arp goodies
The way your sounding, i would run a stage 3 port job on the heads and after porting have them checked to 64cc, if not 63cc. and still run the .041 head gasket. I strongly recommend having them done at TEA.
I live in Michigan so most likely I would use AI, support a local mitten business
Do you have 91 or 93 octane in your area? Would you consider E85?
Really like the idea of E85! Only 1 fuel station in town has it, and it's on the other side of town where I rarely go. I have 93 non-ethanol available as well.
Your stock fuel pump is better then guys will tell you. With my set up(504 at the tires), i didn't see a pressure drop until around 7000 rpm(i shift at 7200 and dyno to 7300). E85 changes everything
I agree, I was going to go boosted couple years back so I bought a gigantic Supra fuel pump, could use that as well.
Depending on the cam, the 8.1 marine injectors can go pretty far for a NA motor. I use a 42 pound SVO injector that flows 52 at our pressure, and at 7000 rpm I'm at 78% injector duty cycle....at 144MPH(4.10 gear)
The TBSS intake can't hurt, I have not dyno'd with one so i can't say the power output. I've seen the stock intake and tb pull 465 to the wheel...so the long runner tbss intake with a larger TB isn't going to hurt.
I love the fact that you are running the stock SS exhaust pipes, as i am to. I assume you have a muffler welded in? Stock muffler, bought some 2.5" U-Bends from Summit and some adapters, 3" OD to 2.5 OD for the collectors, 2.5 OD to 2.75 ID to slip over the stock pipes running to the muffler. Got some 3" band clamps for the collectors and 2.75" lap band clamps for the rear pieces. Cut the U-Bends to get my required bends and welded it up. Passanger side didn't need anything. Turned out really slick, just cut the stock down pipes off where the stock DPs went and slipped them on. The bolts on the big 2 bolt flange portion sheared, and the factory band clamp nut/bolt was so rusted it wouldn't budge. Saw zall took care of that.
12's with a NA stock cubed truck is a hard goal to reach, but you seem to have the attitude for it, so based on that and the manual trans i would say a cam on the larger side isn't going to be to bad. Keep in mind i ran a 12 sec pass on a 224 cam with a 3800 stall, but i would love to see what a 228 or 230 cam would do with your trans and possible gear ratio(hell, I'd like to see my 235 cam with your gear ratios and long runner intake....but i don't think you need that much cam). I urge you to call around and see/learn what the professional world thinks about the cam you should run. You can call comp cams, EPS cams, ed curtis(requires you to buy the cam first), texas speed, speed inc, and a crap ton of other companies. You can also email patrick g and pay a small fee to have a cam spec'd based on your setup, probably a custom EPS cam. I had him spec 2 cams and they seemed very close to what zippy would say or, knowing what i know now....what i SHOULD have run in my truck. You can also call/text Zippy, my first choice(as well as for tuning), for a cam selection to meet your needs and work where you need it to. Or trust us forum guys.
Thanks for the advice the guys on Tech really like Pat G, he seems to be the king of these hybrid builds.
I don't use the hydroboost because I'm afraid the draw on the power steering pump might have a parasitic loss on the hp i have worked so hard to get. This is my small opinion, i can't prove or disprove it. A vette upgrade might work better for you, but cost a crap ton more. The hydroboost system is bypassing when you aren't pressing the brakes, it's flowing through the HB and back to the PS ressy. When you apply the brakes the PS pump under a load and when you would see some real world losses IMO.
I'm very interested in how your trans will effect the truck, to the point of doing about a 1 and half hours of trying to compare your truck with the t56 gear ratios and a 4.88 gear and stock size tire, to my truck with a 65e and 4.56 gear and 28.7 tire. And it pisses me of that i can't find a calc to take the different final drive gear ratios and add the effect of the tire size in to them to see how we would compare. LOL I was thinking the .57:1 6th was more appealing than my potential 60ft times
So IF you can launch and shift like a tuned auto(and I'm not saying you can), you should be able to pull me the whole way down the track based on final drive ratios. You didn't say anything about a short tire, so i assume the 4.88 gears are to make up for a stock sized 31.8 tire. If you add in you'll be running a 31.8 tire and I'm running a 28.7, i have no idea what happens because i can't find the calc i want. 4.88s would also help make 6th a more usable gear, 6th @ 65 is like 1300rpm
Sorry to use my truck to compare to yours, but i'm in the 12's...and i had no idea how to compare your trans gears to our "normal" situation.
Hope this makes some kind of sense and helps(and i hope the trans part isn't bs). It does help and thats the exact reason I posted!!!
Brad
Edit(before i even posted this): I called Zippy to see what he had to say about comparing the t56 trans with a 4.88 gear and stock tire to my set up with 4l65 trans with a 4.56 gear and a 28.7 tire. He said to use a normal calc that figures in tire size at a set rpm to MPH and the one that produces the lower MPH will be the truck with numerically higher gear and therefore accelerate faster. So here is that:
Both of these use the above final drive ratio and a set rpm of 7000 to compare
You:
1st gear MPH =45
2nd gear MPH=66
3rd gear MPH=95
4th gear MPH=136
Me:
1st gear MPH=43
2nd gear MPH=80
3rd gear MPH=131
just as i figured i have the potential to out 60 foot you, but the set up your using has the potential to pull much harder then my truck going down the track.
He also mentioned you may not want to go with a 4.88 gear because the ring gear diameter becomes so small and has so much more stress on it then it has a tendency to break more often. I don't know about the 8.25 front.........But since the 149 doesn't supply 100% to it, maybe it will survive? 10B and gov-bomb have got to go
He also said he doesn't think they make a clutch that will hold up to the power you may make vs the AWD stress and the weight of the truck. I got the mcleod twin rated for 800hp, don't know how long it will last but Spec sells a 1500hp rated but says its not too street friendly. It's crazy with these clutches, they make a 12" single but no 12" dual discs? These DDs for LS stuff are tiny. I just put a big DD in my tow rig cummins, absolutely love it. Rated for 650hp/1300tq. It's a chattery sombitch though but doesnt slip.
And he said unless your a god at driving a manual, you won't 60 foot anywhere near a correctly stalled auto so you will essentially need more hp so you can trap a higher speed then a auto truck. I can definately hold my own but it's so odd with this T56, it's a car trans so the gears are extremely close together. I'm used to banging an NV4500 and this just doesn't compare!
And again, I'm posting a lot about the trans because it will be such a large point in how your truck performs and i want to make sure you have an idea of how it compares to the standard auto and what you may need to do to get it in the 12's with your build. Thanks I'm really curious too
Again i hope this helps, and i sure am pulling for you Thanks again I'll have to get some video footage of rowing thru the gears in the SSS!! It really wakes the LQ9 up! Can't say it helped fuel mileage, I find myself ripping around in a gear too low too often haha
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...I received coated ones
That's why they are such a great deal
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amazon has a killer price on the coated version of the Pacesetters!!! http://www.amazon.com/Setter-70-2265-Performance-Exhaust-Header/dp/B00133L17O/ref=pd_ys_sf_s_15684181_a1_4_p
mine shipped free for around $275.
I didn't use the supplied gaskets - I went with the GM MLS metal gaskets. Also punted their cheesy bolts and got some allen bolts from the local bolt depot
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I just got my 4x4 T56 swap completed and now I'm planning a nice NA build.
Through research I've found that the 243 heads and TBSS intake are a nice combo with CR around 11:1, and basically my whole setup hinges on the cam selection. I don't care about aestetics like how choppy it is at idle, I just want it to make power.
What kind of gains would I see by having AI or another porting company do a CNC job? Is it worth it for my goals? I could have just milled my 317s and run the .03x or .05x MLS gasket but I didn't want the top end taken apart for that long while the head work was being done. I'm thinking a head/cam swap can be easily done in a weekend with friends. I already have a set of 8.1 marine injectors also.
From the cam thread:
Year of truck: 2003
Model: SS
Trans: T56, 3.07:1 1st
Converter: N/A
Gear: 4.10
Tires: 275/55/R20
List of current mods: 243 Heads, TBSS intake, Pacesetter LTs, no cats, 2.5 off of LTs meeting stock SS exhaust @ stock location, gutted stock air box, 4" PVC from TB to box
Possible future mods: 50/75 nitrous, 4.88 gears, hydroboost
Goals for truck: mid 12s
Uses of the truck: Street/strip, cruise to work occasionally, no towing
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great idea but good luck getting any clutch to hold with the weight of the truck , maybe driving it like a sissy but any spirited driving even on a stockish ss i dont see any clutch holding up
I have the McLeod RST dual disk and my SSS is bone stock except e-fans. They rate the RST for 800hp and I'm nowhere near that power level. If the clutch doesn't last, McLeod said I can always upgrade to the RXT (1000hp) for a minimal fee.
Picked up some minor upgrades for the T56, instead of just ordering a shim kit and snap ring set I went ahead and got brass pads, billet keys for 3-4 and 5-6, and steel fork for 3-4 and 5-6. Parts will be here tomorrow then I am just waiting for the front shift conversion to be available thru thegearbox.
Read some very interesting threads on clubcobra.com, I'm going to attempt to put the reverse lockout (located in the tail of the GTO housing) in the CAGS port since it is the same thread to keep the reverse lockout.
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Welcome!
Traverse City here!
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LS7 clutch is not a good option IMO. Biggest deterrant for me was my friend used to work at the GM proving grounds and said he could slip that clutch ripping into 3rd in a stock vette.
The McLeod dual disc is rated for 800hp. Once my fundilation recoups I'm going to order one. Got the flywheel already and hinsonsupercars.com has them for $647 shipped right now...very tempting!
When my adapters are machined I'll post up a build thread with part numbers and pricing.
I started with an 04' GTO trans and C5 vette rear housing for the 4x4
I don't think the SSR is a good candidate if you are doing a 4x4 conversion since the SSR has a unique rear tail section that is different than the Fbody/GTO. Something like the SSR has a 1 piece countershaft assembly and the Fbody/GTO has a 2 piece so the rear sections aren't interchangeable
Don't know why the hell you would go thru all the trouble to swap to the manual only to rip it all out and go back to A4.....
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I am slammed tonight - has to be later in the week. AND, if you don't get an answer by this weekend, I will be in front of an AWD 4L65 that I can measure, but you would have to wait until Saturday/Sunday.
Mr. P.
Hell I could probably mail you a stock output shaft if it would help - it's even in ONE piece LOLOL
No problem. Not in a major hurry. Stock output shaft really won't help, in order to fabricate the assembly I need to know what dimension to make the shaft stick out (or in) on the transfer case side. It looks like it may be flush with the end of the adapter, but I need to verify before I start fabbing
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YES - I do. I am busy and will have a tough time remembering! But will be happy to walk through what dimensions you need over the phone, call my cel 254-413-3733 (Steve) after hours, if I cannot answer leave a text msg.
Mr .P.
Sweet thanks a lot! I'll give you a call later on tonight.
I know somebody has a 4x4 4L60E laying around....need that output shaft stick out dimension and I should be all set! I'll be doing a build thread once I get these dimensions to my machinist and have some hard parts to photograph!
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Anybody kicking around a 4L60-65-70E in 4x4/awd flavor?
Looking for an exact measurement of the output shaft stick out length.
On the t-case side, anybody have a NVG 149 laying around? Looking for input bearing retainer diameter and to verify that the 6 bolt round mounting pattern is approx 6.8" in diameter.
Measurements are needed for my 4x4 T56 project. I will be using the rear adapter from a C5 corvette and doing a front-shift conversion. Need these dimensions so I can determine how long of a piece of tubing I need to put between the two adapters. Truck isn't down yet and I would like to do as much work as possible while it is still together
Thanks!!!
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Is that near Kinderhook?.
Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk
RT-9H S to I-87 S2 hrs 3 mins / 110.12 miles
My friends and I are exploring building our own out of steel. We all have plasma cutters, welders, CAD experience and access to CNC equipment
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What town?
Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk
Sloatsburg, NY
10974-2642
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i would not deal with that company, and if they are intown go to the shop. if your looking for just parts i am sure others on here can point you to a place that can get you the parts you need. that is my $.02
I'm going to give them the benefit of the doubt, they are in NY. Tomorrow I'm going to be absolutely RELENTLESS until I get ahold of this character that is required for me to do the purchase. If not, I'll just put wheel bearings in my damn truck and punt the AWD. I'm doing a T56 swap and this company is the only show in town for a 4x4 T56....kinda gives away who it is but whatever. Quoted me $1300-$1350 for the recast rear section, new mainshaft, aluminum xfercase spacer and front shift modification
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IMO I would look elsewhere, If they are this bad with customer sevice up front, just image if you have a problem with there products.......just saying.
Yeah but they are the only show in town for what I'm looking for. I don't want to mention names publicly but if you wanna know PM me.
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I'm working with a transmission vendor and I'm having a TERRIBLE time getting ahold of the guy. I have some small questions before I drop $1300 on his kit. I call the office, they transfer me to his voicemail. I leave a message, no call back, so I wait a few more days and try again. Same deal.
I originally called and talked to him for about 5 minutes about my needs last Tuesday. I attempted like crazy to order the parts on Friday but I could never talk to him or anybody else at the company who could help me. This week I have yet to receive a reply to my message I sent last Friday.
When dealing with vendors is this normal practice? It's one thing to sell somebody a product that sucks etc, it is a complete other issue in my book if you don't even make yourself available to sell the part!
Heres the flow of how its gone so far:
I call on 3/15, talk to a chick who can't help me. She refers me to the other guy.
I call back on 3/15, and talk to the other guy (after sitting on hold for about 10 minutes) who gives me a quote and says parts are on the shelf (should have given him a cc # right then and there)
I call back on 3/19 to place my order. Leave voicemail. No return, but message says "will promptly return your call"
Call back 3/19 and take another approach - ask operator if man who never answers phone or returns calls has an email address. She supplies me with his email address and states this is her main form of communication with him. I send email 3/19.
Today, 3/24 I call back, same BS no answer, will promptly return call blah blah blah. I know they don't so I didn't bother leaving them a message.
Today 3/24 I call back again, this time to the original chick I talked to on 3/15. She remembers me but says she can't do anything to help. I said well I talked to the guy last week, sent him an email, left him voicemails and really at this point I'm just trying to figure out who I have to give my money to so I can finish my project. After I finish that sentence, phone goes quiet and I lose a connection.
So I call her back, no answer and I leave a voicemail. No call back!
Am I being ignored or am I just impatient??
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Any updates with this?
I'm starting to source parts for my swap as well. I'm researching how to do the swap without doing a segment swap. Apparently there is a trick to run your 80E on a 60E tune. For the dipstick I've seen a lokar stick on ebay for like $60, my local yards don't like parting with the sticks
I saw something above about a14B swap.. That would be sweet but did they ever factory gear them at 4.10?
I like the idea of sourcing stock driveshafts. Wouldn't a rear from a 2500 or 1500HD work? These can be had from my local yards for $50-$75. Local driveline shop gets around 250-300 for a simple shorten rebalance job.
The crossmember/trans lines don't scare me a bit. It's nice that the converter guys have made an 80E converter with the 60E pad locations so swapping the flexplate isn't required anymore. Doesn't the stock flexplate let go around 500rwhp?
I've got a brand new T76 a big denso intank, just need to get this trans thing figured out before I put the boost to it!
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Dang, normally I pride myself on using the search function....
How is it holding up? Is there anything you would do different? What converter did you end up going with? My research says the Yank is pretty street friendly. I will probably go with a lumpier cam, truck is being retired from DD status to play toy status
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E85 is available in my area as well.
I'm sure the timing can be advanced and the boost for the FI guys can be cranked up since the higher octane will prevent detonation
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Anybody got any tips? Don't need to take mine to a shop to have it done, I have plenty of knowledgeable friends and have built a couple TH400s myself. Does anybody sell the good billet parts individually? What needs to be upgraded?
Truck is currently a bone stock 03, planning on a procharger upgrade in the near future and I know the trans will grenade.
Everybody seems to have good luck with the shift kit and billet servos so I know I will need that stuff, what about heavy duty intermediate drum, hardened input and output etc?
Thanks in advance
time to repair, restore, part out, or sell. need advice.
in General SS
Posted
I had similar thoughts about it earlier this year, my 03 isn't as bad as you describe yours though.
I may do it someday but my plan is to make a 2500 SS clone, find a regular cab, convert it to a shortbed use all my SS parts except the axles and transmission since I would prefer to use the beefy 8 lug stuff and 4L80E, keep the awd t-case, interior is a straight up swap
Some food for thought. One thing to remember is people hate rot, 2 owner cars with rot people still hate. I live in Northern Michigan so I know how the rust thing goes.
The nice thing about just finding a different truck is you are breathing new life into that truck, start with a great donor from the south. So what it will be a clone, it's yours and you have the parts from your other truck to make it sweet