BlueThunder58
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Posts posted by BlueThunder58
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i put in a eaton posi and works great...kinda wish i ran the detroit tru trac tho. only reason is that its built alot more solid over the eaton posi unit.
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here in calgary the cops have a lifted 2004 Cummins crew cab, with fake stacks. they have the special forced excursion which is done up with all the performance goodies, chragers, a mini cooper, a smart car, a beetle, and of course the regular marked crown vics...radar detectors come in handy haha
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this is why i laugh at the guys who slap big wheels(24" or bigger) on there trucks and wonder why it doesnt stop like it should...rotational weight! haha
but now off that rant my 17" factory silverado rims were heavier than my 20 ss wheels. both with rubber on them. not to sure if i woulda saw this earlier when i had my wheels off i woulda thre one of them on the scale. dang
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ya i was thinking about snagging them...only thing that worries me is that it says 2wd. since i have a z71 i might run into some problems...
thanks guys!
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hey so i came across a add for DNA motoring headers and y pipe...full stainless 1 3/4 primaries....anyone ever heard of DNA motoring?
heres the link...
thanks!
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it was in a issue of truckin'. pretty sweet truck.
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Im running the same ones aswell..great lights. really bright too! word of warning...dont let someone plug them in backwards :l
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Thanks for the info Willy...
Spare and Hitch delete.. hmm hopefully this time next year! and I will have the rubber on em today. Should have time to put them on the truck sunday
ya man no problem! on my truck i just did a roll pan and currently the spare tire is in the bed of my truck. cleaned up the rear of the truck and lost a bit of weight too!
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if you were wondering about your spare tire...it has a theft lock on it..so you gotta crank it up and down around 3 times to get the pin to release and the tire will come down. i figured this one out after i got a flat tire at work in -30 cel. but i think i may have to do this conversion soon! looks awesome!
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So...after many days of banging my head against the wall and relentless hours with a test meter in my street...i think i finally nailed it...
I go to a trade school here in calgary, and they have a GM specific program. I walked into a class and talked to one of the instructors about my problem..he told me that its highly unlikley for all 5 solenoids to fail at once. that its most likely my ignition switch module. Since those solenoids get power from that ignition switch..same with my tail lights. (forgot to mention my buddy thought it was a good idea to cross the connections on my brand new led tail lights, as soon as i drove it after he did this..chaos insued) anyways he said by replacing that 81$ module that everything should go back to normal. and i should probly do a filter and fluid change anyways and just to check the A and B solenoids. any advice?
also in the shop is a 2006 silverado ss intimidator...with 450km...got donated to the school from one of the dealers since it got a slight dent in the box during transport. sad it will never see the road
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so i plugged in my code reader...holly codes. i got..
-P0753 shift solenoid A electrical
-P0758 Shift solenoid B electrical
-P0785 Shift/timing solenoid
-P2761 Torque converter clutch pressure control solenoid control circuit/open
-P0740 Tourque converter clutch solenoid circuit/open
i ended up clearing them and now to trace the plugs/fuses that could be problematic
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Can you manually shift in 2nd and 3rd?
If you can shift into only 2 and 3 and reverse, but no 1st or 4th, it is in limp mode due to a possible loss of electrical signal from the pcm.
Check your trans fuses for being blown and your wiring connector going to the trans for being plugged in all the way. If they are ok it could be a stuck shift solenoid or vehicle speed sensor.
you are a hero right now! haha thanks by the way!
ill run the codes on it tommorow morning and report back...currently moving some bails and fixing a fence.
your info should save me from hours of heart ache
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ya thats what i figured too...my buddys allison behind his duramax did the same thing and went right into limp mode...ill write the codes down, report back and clear it just like you said and see what happens...looks like ill be gentle to it for a bit until i can save up for a new transmission...any suggestions? haha and yes it felt like it was stuck in 3rd...
thanks
ryan
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so today, i filled my 2006 silverado z71 up with gas, and started my drive about half an hour out of the city to meet up with some friends. the transmission was running good, no high temps to worry about. i parked my truck for about 5 hours. started it up and i thought i had the parking break on. i didnt and kept driving. almost felt like converter is pooched. so i kept driving and about 10 minutes down the road, an engine light came on and my tranny went right to 3rd. and i didnt have my scan tool to check so i had to limp it home. i just called a buddy who is still where my truck was and said there was no fluid on the ground. Im almost possitive the converter went..since i had to keep the truck around 2800 rpm to do 100km(60mph) and when i let off the rpms just slowly started to go back down towards idle...and then i would almost have to feather it back up to 2800 rpm to start to get any forward momentum...its kinda hard for me to explain...but any ideas? anyone?
thanks
Ryan
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there was my truck in 2007
there it is today
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Why not use GM???Pricey??Yes,but set up correctly,you can bet your ass they will not howl!!!
If you are paying someone else to do it,id bet money that if the aftermarket gears you buy howl,the installer will blame it on the aftermarket.If you buy GM and they howl,the installer cannot make that excuse!!
i put my own gear set in...everything with the set up is 100% right. even witht he break in. the reason they howl (and motive are notorious for howling) is the way the ring and pinion are cut. there is more strength but at the cost of a howl.
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I'm planning a Detroit Locker swap in my 2006 SS & want to swap to 4.10's from 3.73's. Anyone done this & where to get the gears without having to buy GM gears?? Thanks.
you can get the gears at you local speed shop. depending what brands they have; i do not recomend motive.. i got a set of 4.10 motives in my 2006 silverados and they howl...alot. its not inproper set up just the way the gears are cut ive heard...a guy i work with did yukon gears in his impala and said they work beautifully.
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Awesome thanks for the info. If I'm running 75w90 amsoil do I gotta run a friction modifier with the G80?
And also are the bolts standard like the ones the cover comes with or do I need metric alen heads?
Thanks logan
Sorry for thread jacking
with the G80 you gotta run the friction modifier.
for running the covers in the truck you do need T10 ( if i remeber right) alen head bolts.
and yea sorry it is half pint. my bad
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I understand all of this. Yes a T/A or other cover will look much better. I also understand that it's a simple rear diff cover that has survived a ton of miles. So at this point upgrading to a better cover is just wasting money and pointless with the current mod level.
Please try and read the original post question as well.
pointless is a harsh word...its a girdle so it supposrts the bearing main caps and also lets you run an extra liter (or quart) of gear oil for better cooling. IMO
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I figure this diff fluid is over 150K I prob won't be under that cover again unless it's having issues.
So I went with ARP bolts and a little spray paint
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VS
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TA girdle FTW!!!
The only thing about the TA girdle, for me, was the gasket they gave leaked. I had to out thread sealant on the drain bolt and RTV gasket maker instead of the paper gasket that came with the girdle...NO LEAKS! Definately looks sexy!!
yes the TA girdle looks amazing.
and the gasket for me was garbage anyways, i just traced out a new one on some gasket material and made about 4-5 of them so i dont ever have to buy one. and the only thing i found with the TA is that you need T10 allen head bolts for it to work on the trucks. but at 12$ for 50 of them it wasnt as painful as i thought. and i also threw some rtv on the bolts...just to make sure there was no leaks on my expensive cover haha
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I am changing my rear diff fluid soon it way past due. I was going to add a new diff cover in the process. I found cheap ones with drain holes. I want as a replacement. 10 bolt rear diff covers are all the same or did GM change them and they have different 10 bolt rear covers?
you could just buy the "drain hole kit" from your local speed shop. simply drill a hole and weld the bung in...i went with a TA girdle cover..so it supports both main caps and for extra $$$ you can also get arp studs for your mains. there is a how to on here on the girlde...as for price i think i paid around 180 CAD for the cover and studs.
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Hey guys I am looking for a good non-SS roll pan for my truck. I know i want it steel and was looking at the one from LCTruck.com. Anyone have any other suggestions or comments?
got mine off ebay..keystone roll pan. 18 gauge steel. cut out for a hitch behind the plate...65.56 free shipping in the states.. and it was a awesome product when it showed up to my door. and fitmit was amazing. just scuffed it down and took it for paint.
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i wish! but canada is a little pricey for booze..
needless to say go everything in and together...paint patterns were right in line..also spent 2 hours getting the shims right for the carrier.. theis break in period that motive requires is 500 light miles....bit of howling but i guess that is what the break in period is..only downside is that i forgot the m8 allen bolts required for the ta diff cover install
so i gotta change the fluid after the break in so ill do it then...other than that it went all to plan.. good thing the parts store was only a couple minutes away. ill post pictures asap. but right now in calgary its 1 am...just got back from a nice cruise and a run in a 383 magna charged sierra...speachless
OEM Wheels vs Replicas?
in Rims and Rubber
Posted
i was lucky enough to find some oem wheels just outside the city i live in...700$ for all 4 with good tires on them...kinda looking at the 22" reps tho....hmmm