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pwtr02ss

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Posts posted by pwtr02ss

  1. I understand I can adjust at what percentage of throttle it downshifts but that still doesn't change the fact that its hard on them. Every transmission I have had fail has started slipping when downshifting to pass someone or just raise hell so I started manually pulling them down. Either way that isn't my question of whats better or worse. My question is why isn't shifting. Maybe I missed something in my tune? DOes it go into a different mode when you manually shift it or what? It doesn't have the performance mode because it doesn't have a tow haul button like the trucks. I have only changed my gear ratio to the correct size and have raised the rev limiter to 6350 but I left the shift points stock.

  2. My buddy has a 99 trans am that will not shift out of gear when you manually shift it. If you leave it in D/OD it shifts perfect. Ive seen lots of issues the other way around, won't shift in od, but shifts manually, but never one like this. The car has headers, true dual exhaust, and 3.73 gear. I have HP Tuners and have made all of the changes for the gear swap and the headers. No SES light is on and its not throwing any transmission codes. It has to be something pretty simple, I just can't figure it out.

     

    2BFAST, you helped me when we built the trans in the sss, you have any ideas???

  3. Got the following.....

     

    Raybestos Blue Plates and Kolene coated steals. The blue plates are supposed to be the "drag slick" of clutches. The kolene coating on the steals is supposed to act like track prep you would put on a racetrack. Setting the proper clutch pack clearence is crucial with these as you set each clutch in the pack to a certain tolorence and not just checking the top clutch.

    2/4 band - Depending on price range you can upgrade to the Alto extra wide carbonate band

    Servos - Many use the Corvette 2nd apply servo as the fluid apply area is 3 times factory and is 3/4 of the cost of a billet one

    Sun Shell -The Beast shell has a billet center and collar to avoid this failure.

    Forward sprag - I would upgrade this part no matter what you plan on doing to the truck. Borg Warner makes an HD 29 element double caged piece

    Molded pistons - There is a variety of molded apply pistons in the input drum that need to be inspected. Depending on mileage I would replace these. Leaks with these can cause quite a few issues. They are cheap and come as a kit.

     

    Forward Accumulator Piston - This is plastic from the factory and cushions the shock between reverse and drive. These are well known to crack and cause an internal oil leak. Replacing this with a billet piece is a must. Also cheap mod

     

    3-4 factory accumulator piston. These are aluminum from the factory but have a tendency for the center hole to wear resulting in loss of pressure. Again, you will have this out so replace this.

    Bearings - There are various Torrington bearins and roller bearings. Timken makes a kit that covers all the bearings in a 60 and is relitivly cheap.

     

    Bushings - There are various bushings throughout, stator, pump, case, ect. Inspect all and replace as needed. Most likely due to mileage. Having proper bushings knockers/drivers are a must in doing this.

    Shift Solenoids- Went ahead and replaced both of them

    We still have to get it apart and check the wear items like the drum and other things that you had mentioned but hopefully we have the most of it covered. Thanks again for all the assistance!

  4. Thanks very much for the fast response! I have added all this to the list what Im about to order. I have been reading for the past 3 days and your list pretty much matches what I had in mind, that just confirmed that most of my bases were covered. I have a quick question about a kevlar band. My camaro has one in it along with the other upgraded parts to handle the mods. I see a lot of people along with you are recommending the red eagle bands. Whats the benefit?

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