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mjanusz95

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Posts posted by mjanusz95

  1. I have an 04 SSS with a built trans and about a week ago it started shifting differently. I've had the trans in the truck for probably about 2 years and the 1-2 upshift always hit VERY firm at 6000rpm. Last Sunday I realized that it stopped hitting hard and it just glides into 2nd. The 2-3 upshift, and the 3-2 and 2-1 downshifts are still firm and shift like normal. What could be causing this? Its my dd and it doesn't slip or heat up when I drive it just no firm 1-2 shift. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

  2. I'm not that knowledgeable about transmissions but I got a pretty good idea of how they work. When I had it built I told the guy all about the truck, the gear ratio the tire size and the power I was gonna be putting out and I told him I don't wanna have to worry about replacing it and he said my 60 would be fine. At the time I was happy that I could use what I had but I should've just went with my gut feeling that it wouldn't last. I already have the biggest sprag in the trans and he said there's nothing better that I could upgrade to without a completely different trans.

  3. Ok this is not a question about a SS truck but is a question about a high HP truck. I recently built a 383 stroker for my 1995 GMC Sierra and I am having issues with the 4L60E transmission holding up. The truck is lifted 7" and has 35" tires with 3.73 gears. I had the transmission built also but the motor is putting out about 475hp and 500ftlbs torque and it blew the sprang after about a month. I am going to be putting a Dana 60 with 4.56 gears in it but I'm not sure if that will solve all my problems or not.. I have considered cryo treating but I've never heard of anyone doing cryo on a sprang or if it will even make a significant difference or not. Basically I'm looking for a way to keep my 60 trans if possible..if not probably considering an 80 swap. I'm just looking for any input information or past experiences, and if you have any time to share it it is much appreciated!

     

    Thanks, Matt

  4. Ok so I'm looking into replacing my standard drls with leds, but I'm not really sure which direction to go… I know that the standard replacement bulb recommended is the 3157, but other people say that the 4114 is a better replacement because it is not as sensitive to the voltage fluctuation that GMs put out. I have looked on vled and superbright but neither makes a 4114 in an led, only a 3157. Is 4114 only a standard bulb number? Also, is either one truly any better than the next? I was leaning toward the 6k switchback 3157s on vled, but it does not state that they are ok for drls like it does for the plain white 6k 3157s…I listed the links below. I'm really just looking for some advice before i spend the money only to have them burn out right away, so if you have any input I'd be glad to hear it!

     

    -White 3157 LED

    http://www.vleds.com/bulb-type/reverse-back-up/3156-3157-led/6k-white-3157-21-led-parking-backup-light-bulbs-4057-1-pair.html

     

    -Switchback 3157 LED

    http://www.vleds.com/bulb-type/tail-brake-turn-signal/3157-3157ck-3156-led/switchback-led/6k-type-2-dual-color-changing-white-amber-switchback-42-high-power-led-turn-signal-bulbs-3157-ck-type-base-1-pair.html

  5. Ok so i got my new brakes the other day and the only thing i found wrong was that the pads for the front were for single piston calipers instead of dual piston, which the page did state. But when I was putting them on today I realized that the rear rotors were a lot thinner..so i measured them with a caliper and they measured 0.800 compared to stock which was about 1.150. So I'm not sure if that matters that they are almost 3/8 thinner or if the caliper will just take up the gap?

  6. I have a 04 SSS and its about time for some new brakes...I would like to get some slotted rotors but I don't like the price tag that comes along with most of them. The truck is basically just a daily driver so I don't need anything out of this world just a little better than stock rotors. My friend told me he put a set of slotted rotors and pads on his truck for around $200 but he can't remember what kind they are. If anyone has any suggestions I would be happy to hear them! just lookin for some answers..

     

    Thanks, Matt

  7. Ok so I've been having problems with my gauge cluster where the needles on the gauges wont lift when I turn the truck on. Its not just one or two of them its all of them. I recently replaced the stepper motors because I had a bad speedo and put LED's in the cluster while I was at it. This has happened a couple times before but I just tapped on the dash and they came on. All of the dash lights work, but still no gauges. I thought maybe from messing with the cluster I could have had a bad connection in the wiring harness, but I couldn't find any lose wires. I plugged the cluster in and poked each individual wire from the back of the plug to make sure each one was connected good and still nothing. I'm not really sure what else to look into.. Any ideas?

     

    Thanks, Matt

  8. Yeah im looking at getting some clear housings for mine and i was just gonna put some ambers in the marker lights. With the high beams though i just wanna find something brighter than the HIDs because as of right now its hard to tell if theyre actually on or not.

  9. Thanks! Yeah I wanted to kinda get some other opinions before i spend 80-100 bucks on lights. I was just gonna go amber all the way around because i know someone who has been pulled over multiple times for white marker lights and it's something a little different from everyone else. Those do look nice on that truck though! Btw, what kind of high beams are in that truck? I recently put 6000K HID's in my low beams and am trying to find a nice high beam to put in to match. Those look like they match pretty nicely.

  10. Ok so I'm looking to replace my DRL's and marker lights with amber LED's but I am not quite sure where i could order a decent set of bulbs from. I know that GM DRL's have a problem with fluctuating voltage which causes them to burn out periodically. I know of 3 main sites which are Super Bright LED's, VLED's, and Autolumination. I have ordered lights from Super Bright before and was very pleased with them. However, the 3157 they offer as a replacement for the stock 4114 is said to not a suitable replacement for GM DRL's. I found some lights on VLED's that looked decent for the price but they were said to operate from 9-14.5 volts. I was under the impression that the voltage in the DRL's could spike above that which would blow the LED if thats correct. I also looked on Autolumination and the whole site just seems kinda sketchy and cheap so I'm not sure I would buy anything from there. If anyone has any pointers that would be great and I would appreciate the help.

     

    Thanks, Matt

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