SShanks
-
Posts
44 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by SShanks
-
-
I'm starting to lean towards a Yank SS series 3600. Says its rated for 650 rwhp.
-
That's not a bad choice. I'm running near the same 224/228 .581 .588 114LSA with -2* valve overlap
Did you put the cam in before you did a bigger intake and head work?
-
-
I plan on switching to LT's in the near future as well. What about a 224/228 .575/.588 112 lsa?
-
I'm about to throw on a Circle D 278mm 3200 stall torque converter on my truck pretty soon then I want to do a cam swap. I'm wanting a good street/strip cam that would work well with the TC and current mods. I'm just wanting to get in the low to mid 13's and might swap the intake in the future. If you guys have a good idea for a cam for this setup, feel free to share. Just trying to get my build all planned out. Thanks..
-
That really sucks because a lot of the how-to threads are missing pictures.
-
Do you know where I can find these plugs? I've always wondered about that. It looks like you could just run the right bolt with a nut on the back side that would keep it from leaking.
-
What happened? Did the rotors warp or do you just mean the pads wore out?
-
I've done some searching on this with no luck. I plan on painting my calipers soon and I was wondering if I used a couple hose clamp pliers to squeeze the brake line above the caliper, would I be ok to undo the brake line from the caliper without getting air in the lines? I really don't want to paint them while they're still on the rotor.
-
Any of you guys ever run these brakes? I've heard pretty good things out of this set for the money. I'm needing to change my pads so I figured I might as well change the rotors too. $300 for all 4 rotors and all the pads is pretty hard to beat. While I'm in there, I think I'll paint the calipers too.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005FKXXNG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1405501484&sr=8-1
-
I didn't realize they were molded plastic. If that's the case I could just try to strip the black paint.
-
The previous owner of my truck painted the ducts black and did a bad job so it's chipping. I'm thinking about returning them back to their original color. Anyone know the name of the silver GM used?
-
Not sure about the quality of this one but it looks the same. $61.83 witth free shipping is pretty hard to beat.
http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav=item.view&id=351030470809&alt=web
-
Does anyone have a pic of one of these mounted? I wonder what it would cost to get it painted?
-
Mobile view
-
When I try to view some of the older threads on here, where there is supposed to pictures, there's just a white box that says "posted image." Is that normal? Is there something I'm doing wrong?
-
Thought maybe this would be useful for the instrument panel. This is the pin-out for the connector that plugs into the back of the panel. Maybe you could use it to figure out which pin on the board is ground and follow the traces from there. Might save you having to figure out which side is -/+ for the leds. I replaced my lights today with the oem incandescent bulbs. Not flashy or anything but they're soft with no hot spots. Just thought I'd share.
-
Don't use the hole saw that comes with the kit. It's a p.o.s.
-
What's weird though is after I restarted it, it ran just fine.
-
I had something odd happen today. I was sitting in a drive through in park with the truck running. As soon as I put it in drive to leave the rpm's jump up to like 2000 and the truck lurched forward. I slam on the brakes and put it in neutral. Then the rpm's drop down below 500 and the engine starts spitting and sputtering then levels out at about 1000 rpm's. I limped it over to a parking spot and killed the engine. I popped the hood and didn't see anything out of the ordinary. Then I started it back up and it idled like normal and I drove it home with no problems. Anyone have any idea what would cause that? Should I be worried? Could that be the PCM or a sensor somewhere?
-
I just put some mediocre kicker coaxs in. The stock head unit was gone when I bought it and I'm not sure if the amp is still there.
-
Recently upgraded speakers. These still sound great. The 4 x 6's had tears in the cone. I'm asking $50 shipped for these.
-
Here's a few pics I took of the exhaust not long after I bought the truck:
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac150/wiseshanks/20130328_144447-1.jpg
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac150/wiseshanks/20130328_144412-1.jpg
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac150/wiseshanks/20130328_144332-1.jpg
-
Mine was all custom done from what I can tell. From the collectors on the header they run into an x pipe then through the mufflers then back to the tips. What sucks is that the only flange is at the headers then the rest is solid.
Racetronix Fuel Pump Upgrade
in General SS
Posted
I just recently ordered this Racetronix (in tank) fuel pump upgrade kit from TSP. I've been having some issues with stumbling at low idles and I want to swap out the fuel pump to rule that out. Would I have to buy the new sending unit to replace the fuel pressure regulator or is there a way to replace it while I have the sending unit out? Also, are there any write-ups on here that anyone know of with instructions? I'm not sure if I'll have to grind the inside of the sending unit where the pump goes so that there will be enough clearance to attach the filter sock. TIA!
https://www.texas-speed.com/Chevrolet-Silverado1500-2005_p-250-racetronix-in-tank-fuel-pump-upgrade-kit.aspx