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madza teck

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Posts posted by madza teck

  1. Thast why I dont bench bleed, if you dont have anything sealing the master you will only be putting air into it.

     

    I find it easier to bleed on the vehicle as you use the existing lines. Its the same as bleeding brakes but on the master. I do one line at a time until the fluid comes out clear and bubble free from the lines coming off the master. Might want to try that. I bet you have air in the system.

    You have lots of great advice and you know what your talking about. However why not just buy a master cylinder bleeding kit? They're cheep and work well on car or in a vice. It also makes it easy to tell when your done. / basically you're just running a tube from each out put to the master cylinder reservoir. Then you bleed until there's no more bubbles.
  2. I'm not a Chevy technician. However I seriously doubt that you need a scan tool to bleed the master cylinder. ( they did make it where you need one if you're going to mess with the distributor ) / as for the break question. Have you checked that both front brake calipers are free to slide from side to side and that there is brake lube / anti-seize on the slide pins?. If not you could have a frozen ( stuck ) this could cause a funny feeling peddle as well as a pull. Then it pops free again just waiting to do some thing nasty like seizing again and holding the outer pad hard enough to catch fire

  3. Oh the oil filter debate. If I'm not going to use a factory O.E filter, I like Wix filters ( NAPA silver line filters are made by Wix ). That being said purolater was the first oil filter made thay are the OG filter company. They have stopped using saw dust and actually make a fairly good product.

  4. Learn something every day. I'd have never guessed cat after listening to the video.

     

    Great to hear that it turned out this way for both you guy's.

    The clogged cat was putting excessive back pressure on the system. the sound is not uncommon when the cats are bad. This needs to be fixed ASAP or you run a

    substantial risk of damaging the wrist pins and main bearings. ( your engine could blow up )

  5. I've bought a 02 Z71, 5.3 200k miles with a extended cab. The dash told me it was getting 15 mpg when I bought it. I replaced the fuel filter, plugs, wires, air filter, gave her a LOF, replaced the rear differential fluid, I then did a fluid exchange on the transmission using a BG machine. Using a motto vac. I did a induction service. Put some new tiers on her and now I'm getting 21/ so I'm wondering what kinda MPG you guys are getting?

  6. It's NOT THE BCM. Go down to auto zone, O'Reilly's, Pepboys, ect. And have them preform a starting and charging test ( they will do it for free ) if either your battery or alternator fail replace them. If everything passes you have what's called a parasitic draw. These are lots of fun it could be anything ( not the bcm / ecm ) that uses electricity. The, cluster a light in the glove box, your stereo. Good luck

  7. The oil is just really a way of delivering the additives. The API ( American Petroleum Institute ) rates the additive package, they're all the same ( no need for mobile 1 ) / that being said you do want real oil like ,Valvoline, Coastal, Castrol, ect. Penzoil is paraffin (wax) based and turns into slug faster than the others ( especially if it sets ) / IMO flush your engine and give it a LOF ( lube oil filter )

  8. This mod works well. However it needs to be said that the Y cable does serve a purpose. If you noticed the cable attaches to the floor then it runs to two anchors. Those are there so you can securely install a child safety seat ( car seat ). If you need to use a car seat the mod gets a little tricky / you're going to need a welder.

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