EXGM

Had any rain or driven through a large puddle recently? Reason for the relocation kit is they get water in them and it gets f'd up... and sets the light.... saw a TON of them with water in them....

Welcome, I am in Charlotte but I think there are a few members on here from SC.

Nice truck! ?

Sold

are they disco from GM?

Clunking I shafts are strictly a customer annoyance you can replace with an updated design for about 70 bucks. You just hear feel a clunking in wheel but not a safety thing...

Yes it has the same AWD power train. Chevy went with the 2wd in 06 to get the price down (the ss didn't sell very well) and to answer critics because you couldn't smoke the tires like a vehicle wearing SS badges should.... I doubt it they are used trucks. They would be doing the same thing searching the web and auctions. Do interweb searches for 6.0 or tow package. You can sometimes spot Vmax because they came with factory 20s in one of two styles I think in extended cabs. The crew came with 17s and a Denali would also have factory 20s.

Cooler lines just leak..... Every GM truck since the dawn of time has had leaky cooler lines both engine and trans. I can't speak to the new generation but GM can't seem to design a line that don't leak. They typically don't blow just leak.... And I hate oil leaks. I almost forgot the other biggie problem.... Clunking steering shafts. For a cluster the dealer reprograms the new IPC with your vehicle info and your off. Or you can have someone rebuild your existing cluster but I have never tried that I always replaced with a exchange unit.

GMT 800 Trucks generally bullet proof... common problems and I mean common.... power window motors, oil cooler lines, wheel bearing, blower resistors, gauge clusters and noisy aspirators... beyond that to answer your questions below.... I am sure others will weigh in with their opinions but here is what I think, (FYI I have a 2wd). An AWD vehicle will ALWAYS be more thirsty... your always dragging wheels think about it the front and rear are somewhat working against themselves. Another disadvantage is that if you have a blow out you can't replace one tire, AWD systems need all four tires to be close in size, if one is slightly off you "can" burn up something (either a diff or t-case). Overall I think the system the earlier trucks use isn't bad, heck it was used in the Escalades and Denali's (same running gear). In my opinion they require more maintenance, you should change fluid religiously in the t-case and diffs. You do have twice as much stuff to go wrong... again why I wanted RWD... I also live in the South so don't need 4wd or Awd. If I were to get a 4WD I want one with a switch you can turn it on and off... again personal preference. I am new to this forum but there are guys running big power and I do mean big power... able to smoke all 4 tires. As far as "economy" the 6.0 has never been known for being an economy engine, every 6.0 I ever had has been pretty thirsty. Back in the day I had a 3/4 ton and several hummer company cars with the 6.0 and they did a little worse then my SS does. I drive pretty normal just back and forth to work and I average almost 15 in my 2wd but I drive it pretty hard. I think on one highway trip I almost got 18 which is close to the sticker which shows 14 city and 19hwy. I think an AWD truck will suck another gallon or two off those numbers... Personally I wouldn't buy a truck with a ton of miles... I looked for a while before finding my "low mile" 06 with only 48K on it this last November. Good trucks are out there.... If you are willing to travel. I have seen some low mile trucks but you have to be patient and when you look check all the websites like auto trader and the others. Also look under other headings I found my SS listed as a regular 'ol Silverado. I was like you also looking for an SS or VHO but the VHO seem to be harder to find. I think a 4wd V-Max would be easier to find but again I wanted 2wd so harder to find. In 06' the trucks got a upgraded rear end (larger) than the earlier trucks but I don't think the earlier read ends were necessarily bad. Like anything when you add big power the next weakest link breaks so at some point a diff or t-case may blow since you are pushing WAY more power than what they were originally designed for... now I am sure GM designed in a measure of safety but when your pushing 600hp or whatever something is going to break and then you upgrade and rebuild it.... This topic here may shed a little more light on VHO's... http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/topic/67784-vho-research/ Good luck in your search....

LOL, I said same thing.....

I think it depends on the problem. I bought a s blazer flipper that I did several years ago. No reverse so I knew sun she'll was toast, no codes for that condition. Tore it apart and it was stripped..... Not every condition will turn mil light on. Your trans is toast.... There is a good possibility it is sun shell. I can't remember the exact year but I think it was after your 03 where they went to a different style hardened shell to prevent this.

Can't you still order one from GM?

Yeah, I didn't look that close but the driver cover is a little worn.... like I said it is hard to find a nice example!

I have a feeling that is what it is..... I will have to open up and take a look but I was thinking this also ?

Saw this on cl tonight. Doesn't look bad..... Hard to find em with low miles. https://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/4936346119.html

Here is my CL ad..... http://charlotte.craigslist.org/pts/4959203961.html Figure $17 bucks for shipping.

Oh I no they are easy... its weird I have never heard one make this noise before. I almost think that maybe the deflector inside is rubbing when it goes down... but like I said its weird... only on down... up is quite and smooth... It is 9 years old and they are notorious for going through motors....

Ok, when I roll my driver window down it sounds like a baseball card in a bike spoke..... it works fine but I am concerned that it might be on its last legs. Has anyone here had this problem.... I need to open the door up and see but if it is in fact the window regulator/motor going south I will just buy one and do the job once when I open it up.... Anyone have any insight? Thanks....

I think you just have to be patient and keep looking. I was looking at autotrader for months and just stumbled into mine. In fact I found mine incorrectly listed as just a silverado not under a SS. Some dealers might not realize it was a sub model.... I found mine at a ford dealer. I also looked at that car grurus site and there were some decent ones listed.... I keep looking to see what quality of ones still are out there and what they go for to help me feel better about what I paid for mine..... Lol.

Some of the small sss pictures look like hero cards? Or did you take them out of a brochure? Just curious where you got them.... I also noticed your A body.... I love those and have one too....

How many miles you have? Sort of sounds like a bad u joint or joints.... If it is in fact your u joints you can check by getting underneath and use a pry bar and pull on joints and see if they have excessive play. If they do either buy GM or Spicer u joints. Don't buy cheapo parts store ones. I had a s10 that I used the "best" Napa joints and they were garbage had a worse vibration ended up spending the money and using genuine spicer joints and problem was gone.....

I would use DEX 6 it's expensive but is the best fluid IMHO. Its a semi synthetic.

Hmm that's what I thought..... Well I will have to figure out how to put one back on. I might try and get a hanger from a wrecking yard then.....

Anyone here install a Corsa on their truck? My question is does it use all stock hanger locations or does system add any? Reason I ask is I want to eventually ditch the system that previous owner installed on truck. I noticed that whoever put current system on torched off at least one of the factory hangers from frame (not nice!).... so I know I will have to figure out how to fix that one...

Sorry but that is the most absurd thing I have ever heard. ATF breaks down from heat, actually any oil does. Second you need to change your filter and the only way to do this is to drop the pan. Gm recommends at 50k and if you look at your owners manual most people qualify for severe use. City driving? Pulling a trailer? Lots of stop and go traffic? Temps regularly above 90? Check any of those and you fall under severe duty. At end of the day it's your vehicle do whatever you want but I always laugh when people say that their (insert vehicle here) is a pile of crap with nothing but problems. But when you ask them they have done zero maintence. As far as flushing I am against using chemicals in the flush process. When you drop pan you only get about 50% of fluid out your not getting old worn out fluid out of the converter and cooler etc.