QuickStyle
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Posts posted by QuickStyle
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well i added 1 inch spacers on each side and the axles still had enough play in them to where they aren't binding up. i put maybe 30 miles on it like this over the last 2 weeks. seems to be ok. part number for the spacers is 10805 made by tuff country.
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when i did my dual electric fan swap, i swapped to the 145amp alternator and the 8 gauge charging wire was getting so hot it would burn my hand and would never go past 13 volts. swapped it out for a 4 gauge and now its only warm to the touch and runs around 14.4 volts.
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did a 2/4 drop on my awd with spindle and shackle/hangers a couple months ago. yesterday the left front axle inner joint popped off. from what ive gathered on here is 2 inch's is the most you can go without problems. well im having the problem at 2 inches. so i want to install some cv axle spacers cause it appears the joint is being pulled out of the housing, didnt really break anything except for the boot. so what size cv axle spacers should i be running, i was thinking either 0.5" or 1.0"
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thats what i thought. thanks for confirming.
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are the from bumper ducts interchangeable from the early years to the later years, do they line up properly? i know the grill part is a different design, just need to know if they will physically interchange. couldn't find the answer while searching. thanks.
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installed 8 degree shims. im now sitting at -1 degrees. looks much better. i thought stock was -5 to -7 degrees, but after verifing a few other 99-06 silverados visually and they all seem to be stock at 0 degrees or so, found one with a 2/4 drop and it had the same -7 angle as mine originally did, so i guess this is normal. i figure -1 degrees should put me at 0 under load at the power level im at, just perfect. not sure why the drop kit doesnt include a shim to correct this.
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You should sell it to me. It may cause harm with that drop..... lol
do they not make them anymore? i have the front one too
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A couple shims might help
I would need about 14 degrees of shims to make it correct, seems like a lot. im thinking more along the lines that something is wrong. the kit came with a 1 degree wedge to correct pinion angle, but thats clearly not enough.
I see you have the hotchkis rear sway bar..... where did you get that?
it came on the truck when i bought it
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just did a 2/4 drop on my 04 SS (spindle, shackles, hangers). you can visually tell the driveline and pinion are pointing up, so i check with my angle finder and it calculates out to POSITIVE 7 degrees, i understand a slight pinion angle change can occur, but this is not right. leaf spring rear ends should be NEGATIVE 5-7 degrees. is this something that happens because of the lowering, i didnt measure the angle prior to installing the lowering kit, so i dont know how it was before
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The pictures are gone thanks to photobucket
x2. can someone upload these photos to a permanent source, this is a great write up.
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thats what i was thinking, but was not sure. i'd probably be ok with the light gray over the shale is their a trim code that i could use to search for the correct color? the trim code on the spid seems to only refer to the all the interior except the parts i need
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did all of the SS models come with the "shale" headliner and trim piece? i bought my second ss (2004) a little over a year ago and the previous owner had the headliner done in black suede but the trim pieces are still the shale color, im looking to buy them in black to match, i'd prefer to not have to paint these ones. so is there a specific vehicle i could find these piece in black? my first 2003 SS definitely had a black headliner and black trim pieces but i dont have any pictures of that one to prove it, it may have swapped and painted from original, but im now sure.
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That's not ceramic coating....That's hanging the headers outside and spraying them with a rattle can that says "ceramic". Get someone who does ceramic coating for a living and they will last forever. That high temp paint/ceramic shit you buy at the parts store is worthless to use as a header coating.
im not sure if you are referring to me or not, but i dont spray from rattle cans, i spray from a gun, its real ceramic and it works great on steel, the oldest set of steel that i still have has lasted for about 10 years or so and still looks good.
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just to be clear so there is no misinformation here. dual exhaust is perfectly legal in california and will still pass smog. post-cat you can do anything you want to the exhaust. pre-cat the pipes have to be original diameter and cats have to be in original location, tho smog shops aren't going to get under there and measure pipe diameter. so you can run two pipes for dual exhaust off of your cats all the way back if you wanted. i ran mine in stock location dual 3" into two flowmasters, tho mine has long tube headers and no cats, but i can easily bolt on the manifolds and cats to this exhaust. im not sure why you are having trouble getting exhaust done the way you want it. exhaust shops will do anything you want them to except for remove a cat, but if you go in without a cat, they will run the pipes just how you want them.
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thought i would follow up on this post with a set of stainless steel headers i just coated and installed a couple weeks ago. the first pic is from the day i installed them before ever running the engine thru them. the second picture is 4 days of driving with about a total of 4 hours run time. you can see they are already starting to flake. tho i expect these ones to not flake as bad as previous ones i've did because they usually start flaking faster and bigger chunks. i sprayed these ones with a thinner coat than normal, so that might have something to do with it not flaking as bad.
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the problem with the coating on stainless is that it has a smooth surface, and does not take the coat very well, so yes it will flake, you need a rough surface for ceramic coating to adhere to well, which can be achieved on mild steel by sand blasting with some 80 grit aluminum oxide. if you sand blast with glassbead it will create a smooth surface and wont adhere to it well. im not sure if theres some kind of prep that can be done to help it not flake, its flaking because of the smooth surface, and you cant really rough up stainless. i would still recommend coating the stainless if you dont care what it looks like, the majority of the coating stays on there and because it still helps with temps. but if you are going for looks, get some mild steel coated headers. longest set of mild steel coated headers ive had are on a camaro, still holding up like new after about 10 years. on the two separate set of stainless steel coatings ive done, both started to flake off the next day.
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i put speed engineering long tubes on my 03 SS with whipple supercharger. build quality is nice, install was straight forward and fit great. i ran it without cats dual 3" mandrel bent over the axle with dual 3" flowmasters, sounded fantastic. they are stainless steel, so you cant really ceramic coat them without it flaking over time. if i was to do it again i would go for some steel headers, only because you can coat them and they wont flake. if stainless steel would hold a coating just as well i would choose the speed engineering headers all day.
pic is right after i coated the headers.
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bump, thinking about pulling the supercharger, wheels, and tonneau off and trading it in, thought i'd give the sell one more try. $25k as it sits. $22k without the wheels and tonneau. may consider a lower price if i get a reasonable offer for the supercharger kit.
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How did you get that number?
based on previous vehicles i've had on the dyno with boost. i figure a factory engine that outputs 350hp, adding on a supercharger, long tube headers, and a tune is good for an extra 150hp.
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Is it fast?
I'm not sure, i'll have to check tomorrow
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transmission is stock and shifts like its new. no dyno numbers, but i estimate it to be around 500hp.
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Truck is very well taken care of. only has 56k miles on it. paint is 9/10. needs a buff to be perfect, no scratches. interior is perfect, no rips.
This is a real SS truck, not a replica, has factory 6.0L engine, with a whipple supercharger carb legal kit.
long tube 1 5/8 headers (ceramic coated), no cats, into dual 3" mandrel bent piping with dual stainless steel flowmaster 2 chamber mufflers, into magnaflow axle back chrome tips exiting behind r/r wheel.
also included is stock manifolds and down pipes including catalytic converters, that bolt in.
tuned with superchips flash programmer
24" chevy texas edition wheels with brand new tires - less than 200 miles on them
locking tonneau cover.$25,000 or open to various trades, just ask.
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If you are still interested, i have a black 03 for sale. 56k miles. extremely clean. has a whipple supercharger. i can't figure out how to private message the op, so if someone could help me out.
2/4 drop causing extreme positive pinion angle
in Suspension & Brakes
Posted
8 degree shim is made by rubicon express part number RE1469. the centering hole was too small for silverado, so you will have to use a drill press to make the hole bigger (hand drill will not work), but its the only shim i could find with that big of a degree to make it work.
also if you have awd, you will need 1" cv axle spacers to use the 2" drop in the front or the cv joint will pull itself out of the joint. i used part number 10805 made by tuff country