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flingwing

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Everything posted by flingwing

  1. So I think we have come to the conclusion of this particular story. Here is how it has ended. Gnds at the back of the block; Passenger Side back of block (accessible from the top) is G103 Drivers Side back of block (accessible kind of from under neath (this Gnd is the one the vehicle bonding strap runs to)) G104 Front left bottom of Rad Support G101 (this one has a couple of gnds running to it incl Headlights) Usually if you are having intermittent "Reduced Pwr Advisory" with either ABS or Traction Control issue it most likely will be G103 or G104. Mind was really odd as the snag was tied to switching from Lo to Hi Beam and that circuit is not common to Throttle Body, Throttle Position Sensor or Throttle Control Module. After trying to de-snag I finally gave up and brought it to my local shop (I did check all the connectors to the Throttle body and wires). When I explained the snag he was scratching his head saying "it should not do that." He took it in a gave it a go. First he checked and replaced the Gnds (G103 and G104) recleaned G101 checking all the connectors and lugs (replaced the bonding strap). No Joy, snag still remained. He then pulled the headlight pods to take a look at their wiring. Found out the previous owner had installed HID bulbs and their controllers/ballasts. That install was completely buggering things up. HID's pulled and disconnected. New OEM bulbs reconnect and installed and.........Voila! Everything works. Yaaaahhhhhh! Side note as I was trying to de-snag my Oil Pressure Gauge went wonky. Would not return to Zero PSI/KPA on shut down and when running ran really high. Stepper Motor had gone in the Gauge Cluster. Ordered new ones on line (approx $24.00) pulled the gauge cluster, took apart, removed and re-solderd new one and now works fine. Several good video's on Youtube on how to do this. Need couple small sockets, ratchet, solder sucker and soldering iron. To remove took maybe 15 mins same on install. Un Plugging Wire Harness from back of Cluster can be a pain. Squeeze tabs together well and wiggle and pull. When inserting make sure you insert it straight in as you don't wish to bend a pin. Only one thing left is the Cabin Temp Sensor Fan behind the small grill above Drivers head. It's buzzing a little. That's it for now and thanks for the help along the way. Flingwing
  2. Not sure where you are located but had North Bay Powder Coating do a set for an Impala SS a few years back. Excellent results in Flat Black. http://www.northbaypowdercoating.com/
  3. Concur with the others. You can't Powder Coat Plastic. Not sure what colour you are looking at to coat the rims, but if you go flat black or gloss black you can get a good to perfect match with paint on the centre caps. Had a few friends go that route.
  4. Wire is covered with tape and black protective sleeve on the back right. The corroded one is webbing type. Corroded & frayed at attachment point and green surface corrosion on remainder. Ack the requirement to use a photo hosting site.
  5. Haven't found yet but have a question about a particular wire coming off a loom located back right hand side of the engine. Loom is on top with a wire that comes out and runs down behind the engine block. Wondering if it is a gnd wire? Still don't know how to upload a photo of the loom in question. As well found a major gnd attached to back left hand firewall that is frayed (not completely through) and corroded.
  6. Downeast Johnny and 03SSBoy: Thanks for the starting points. I'll let you know in a few days. As for saving the truck hopefully it leads to some positive karma down the road on any future vehicle purchase.
  7. So here's the story; bought a truck I should not of. Host of issues i've been working my way through to fix. Cab Corners, Door Sills, E-brake/Parking Brake Complete incl backing plates, idler arm, pitman arm, lwr ball joint, exhaust manifold gaskets and studs/bolts, air bag sensors and wire broke on passenger presence sensor (need to remove seat) Wheel Bearing, fuel filter, rear brake lines and heated seats (that was a straight fwd fix as plug had come undone under drivers seat) So fixed everything and got the trucked safetied, registered and plated. Picked the truck up started and drove fine, got to gas station to top it off. restarted truck and rough idle with "Reduced Pwr" advisory. shut the truck off then back on and restarted. Advisory gone but chk engine light was on, everything else seems normal. Drove home. Was approx 15km into the drive home and turned on the high beam lights.......darkness. all headlights went out. Back to low beam and I could see again. Tried High beam and lights out. Back to low. At one point it seemed like a low beam light went out so flicked high beam lever off then on, all low beams appeared to be back on. Pulled into the Drive way and parked (kind of odd that we drive on Parkways and Park in Driveways?) Flicked high beams on and off and Voila! Truck starts stumbling and "Reduced Power" advisory is back. Shut Truck off, then back on. High Beams now work (WTF!) and Advisory gone, idles normal but RPM Gauge reads below "0" RPM. Needle moves as you press and release the Throttle but is below 0 at idle. So shut it down, walked inside and had a drink (more than one but we don't need to get into that) Went out this morning for the standard lift the hood, look underneath and scratch ones head. Started Truck. Check Eng light still on and RPM Gauge reading normal. Pulled the following codes P1516 Throttle Actuator Control Module Throttle Actuator Posn P1518 Electronic Throttle Module To PCM Communication P2108 THrottle Actuator (TAC) Module Performance P0157 HO2S Circuit Low Voltage Bank 2 Sensor As well noticed now that when I started it, all gauges appeared good except the Oil Pressure Gauge was full pegged to the right (almost at the 4 oclock position), with the truck off all gauges at 0 but Oil Press Gauge is above 550KPA (approx 2 oclock position) I understand electrical systems and this nightmare has me leaning towards a bad/loose gnd or partially broken wire somewhere but I have no idea where to start. Understand the thigh bone is connected to the knee bone but how one goes from High Beam switch to "Reduced Pwr" advisory and funky gauges I have no clue. Help!
  8. SSratch: Sorry no update. Just driving it with the Chk Eng Light. Waiting for weather to warm up and then have a go at trying to solve it.
  9. Installed a new MAF. Appears to have solved the shifting problem. Idle problem was still there. Removed and cleaned the Throttle Body (highly recommend one takes some deep breaths while removing the TB. Not difficult per say but a pain in the backside. Fracking hose clamps bottom of the TB then trying to remove the hoses). Anyway cleaned the TB which was gunked up pretty good. Everything seems fine now idle wise anyway. Still have eng chk light. It's for an EVAP Circuit. Changed out the EVAP Valve located top front right corner of the gas tank, didn't fix the light. More to follow.
  10. First truck was an easy fix. There was a two prong connector (green wires) back rear right hand side near seat rail was disconnected, not sure why or how. Re-connected and both seats now work. Will try to track down problem with other truck tomorrow.
  11. dieseltech320: It will be a couple of days before I'll be able to get to it. Problem is on a Truck I'm just in the process of purchasing. Won't be until Friday or Saturday before I take possesion.
  12. Thanks. Had the codes pulled this today and their is a MAF Code. Concurrent to that the truck is slipping between 2nd - 3rd. Spoke to good tranny shop and was told to change the MAF and that should solve the tranny issue. They see this regularly. The MAF sets the line pressure in the tranny particularly for that shift. When accelerating easy the tranny shifts normal but if you step into it a bit then it will slip. They've save a few people a tranny rebuild or replacement. He said also this only works if you have a Eng Light i.e MAF Code. No Code then probably the tranny is going.
  13. Hugie & Loeryder: I'll check that. Tried what SS-GTP suggested and didn't make a difference. I'll let you know what I find.
  14. For the braces etc that you are planning to take down to bare metal check out DOM16. Much like POR15 but less prep work. Just make sure to use gloves etc. That stuff takes forever to come off. http://dominionsureseal.com/index.php/component/djcatalog2/item/5-anti-corrosion/4-dom16-quarts-and-pints- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=am2xY2Vna-k
  15. Truck battery was disconnected for about 2 days. When hooked back up truck wouldn't idle right. Low idle just below 500RPM and will stumble if you don't keep feathering the gas. WIll be pulling codes on Monday but any rough guess on where to start. I would think MAF but it was fine before battery pull and then not fine after. Truck is stock less flowmasters cat back.
  16. Quick Question before I look at replacing the elements. Truck heated seat function stop working at same time on both driver and passenger seat. Possible causes?
  17. Thanks, I'll look at posting in the Wanted forum. It's the metal cab corners and rockers that are shot. Kind of figured it would be about the amount your mentioned abss_2003. I've got a body guy who also does work in his backyard shop. Hoping he'll let me do the grunt work (De-scaling, grinding, cutting etc) to bring the price down a bit.
  18. So, needed to purchase a truck for the Winter, shopped around and came across a Blue 2003 Silverado SS one owner approx 210 000km. Truck drove well, no leaks, all switches and buttons worked, heater, AC, Seats etc but had a couple of issues that at the time didn't seem major (2 X Air Bag Sensors, 1 X ABS Sensor) plus I figured when I had it safetied they would find a couple more things which I budgeted for. Now I know I broke my cardinal rule with respect to purchasing a vehicle and not getting a full inspection before hand but simply events conspired against me and some poor judgement (ok maybe more than "some"). So the Garage did find a few more things. Idler Arm, Pitman Arm, Lwr Ball Joint, Emergency Brake, Manifold Exhaust Leak (Previous Owner was smart and had the truck warmed up when I showed up to inspect and then purchase so leak had closed and I never use the Emergency Brake so didn't even think to check it). Plus on the Drive home (Approx 200km from purchase location) I had the dreaded "Reduced Pwr" warning, which I believe I've sorted by cleaning and tightening a gnd wire. Anyway the mechanical stuff is easy and I can do most of it if needed. It is the rest that the Garage found. Cab Corners and Door Sills are shot and the cross member just fwd of the fuel tank (round tube) has the mounting plates on the frame starting to rust through. That is not an easy or cheap fix. All needs to be done before it can be safetied. Added bonus since that is going to take a little time I got to purchase Winter Tires for my 96 Impala SS. If I sell the truck as is, where is, I take a hit and still have to get another truck. So have chosen to fix and hopefully total outlay of cash will be about the same if I sell and purchase another. So at the moment I have a very nice looking Lawn Ornament. By the way I'm living the song So question what is the best way to source part numbers for the stuff I need? Bring the list to the Dealer or is there and online source I can find. Parts Dealer I get my parts from (2koolperformance) needs OEM or Aftermarket Part number to order. Just an aside the Chev Dealer wants $238.00 Cdn for each Air bag sensor. That is not going to happen
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