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yanrider

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Posts posted by yanrider

  1. That's what I paid for mine in Canada, it was safety and emission tested for the road which that alone is worth a few bucks...Same mlg as yours, some rust dings and scratches....also some shady spray painting touch ups....but that's what I wanted because I had plans to install fiberglass fenders all around... People want big bucks for clean ones. At $4500 you're paying for a working driver train that came with a truck

     

    Welcome

  2. I think what he means is Deegan 38. They have an A/T and a M/T version. The A/T is very Street a bowl and is something you would see on a brand new Z 71. I have the M/T version and they are very aggressive but awesome in the snow and ice as well as Offroad but as one would expect they are noisy Also depending on what size you pick they might be LT tires which makes them much heavier and harder ride. Look up my album you'll see my Offroad SS with Nitto Terra Grapplers. Attached is a crappy pic of degan 38 M/T. I'm running 35x12.5x20 tires on stock rims, which cannot be done on a stock truck but they have many other sizes.

     

     

    Do it http://www.fourwheeler.com/features/0709or-2003-chevy-silverado-ss-awd/

     

    Any other questions ask away

    post-29440-0-47666000-1519134883_thumb.png

  3. HELP:

     

    I run 35" tires, truck barely gets used and will most likely have a stock engine for a while. Might get bolts on and cam in th future, or a cheap low boost supercharger if ever I find a free or cheap one.

     

    Truck will see some towing a few times ahead, enclosed car hauler, which will likely max out the truck's capacity.

     

    I want a quick, firm and confident transmission shift but not a harsh one.

     

    Open do 4L80E but it's pretty involved, i have a buddy who is a GM transmission tech willing to build rebuild mine anytime, I that itbt need to happen soon.

     

    What do I need?!?!

     

    Thanks

  4. I've searched up and down the googles and no luck. I have wide fenders and 4" wheel spacers to finish off the look, on stock wheels. Well this causes rubbing in the foot wells as the wheel travel is huge now, just like running big offset wheels. I can only turn the steering one revolution which sucks in tight spots.

     

    Anyways, a long travel prerunner suspension kit would solve that but also cause a divorce as it's very expensive.

     

    Is there any control arms built for this? Simply a wider stanced setup. Obviously would need to lengthen front axles and brake lines, tie-rods etc but that's cheap. Need C/As that work with the torsion bar setup.

     

    Other option would get custom C/As made (most likely pricy) or chop up the foot well which will inherently crest a dead pedal for my left foot, which will be nice.

  5. I've got 250k in mine (405 000km). It's been winter driven in the salt, towed sleds all over, towed heavy scrap for a year before I rescued it. I changed all the fluids as they were all original! The plugs were also original and nothing was left I can't believe it was running with no SES light. The body was bagged up so I took care of that (see my album) but it's clean and was never rust proofed. Guess it saw the car wash often and never sat long enough to rot. The driver's seat shows wear but don't they all? Getting that done soon. I replaced the front calipers and all takes lines/hoses to try and get a firmer brake pedal and because they were ugly. Performed an ABS delete. Takes much better but pedal still soft. Could be master or that's just how those old chevys are??? Engine runs strong but there might be I little knock or it could be an idler pully. Smells like coolant, need to top it up every once in a while but no apparent leaks. Transmission getting sloppy but that depends on your driving, if you drive easy or wide open it's fine lol. I think the transfer case is acting up but that might be because I filled it with Dex6, oops. Will be swapping with Auto Trak II next Time i get in the truck. I had the steering clunk also, I just removed the original one and shaved some metal in the clamp part of the shaft to allow it to clamp harder(drive bolt further) on the steering box, also cleaned and greased it. No more clunk! A few Exhaust manifold studs are broken and it's starting to leaks. As soon as I put the trans and/or motor I will be getting longtube headers so that's that. So I'm now at a point where I'm keeping my eyes open for LQ9's and 4L80's that I can rebuild in a nonchalant way. It's not my DD, so it will likely only get a few thousand miles of use per year now and it's always parked in a heated garage being babied. So it might last a while as it is. But would rather upgrade the powertrain before it's too late, the sloppy transmission is a little annoying....

  6. Lol this is perfect timing as I was just about to start searching for how-to's. My 4L65 has 400k and the 2-3 shift is temperamental so I'm in the hunt for a cheap 4L80 I can build up or a good one I guess.

     

    Question, could you not run 2 speed sensors and make the tune ignore it? I have access to HP Tuner so I can do what I want as long as it can be done.

     

    Old post but still. Thanks for the write up man!

  7. Hey guys, this is my 2003 SS AWD with 400, 000KM on the clock. It was all original including the spark plugs!! Body had been touched up with bad bondo and spray paint and was full of dings/scratches so it was a perfect canvas for what I wanted to do...Since our winters are harsh here, a metal restoration would be temporary so I decided to go with Advanced Fiberglass Fenders. SS cladding took some trimming and welding but wasn't too bad. For the gas door, I bought the aftermarket one they recommended but it was a bit too small (6.5"), GM one was 7" and not factory looking but what actually fit perfectly was a mid 2000's Dodge Dakota door assembly (6.75") I also trimmed out the gas pod and installed the GM filler neck and spout so it looks OEM! The tail lamps needed a bit of trimming to fit along with some trimming on the fiberglass. Also needed to cut lots of fiberglass off to fit the tailgate. After that, fabed some brackets to support the fiberglass rocker area under the tail lights. My vision was a stock looking truck on roids. Installed 4" wheels spacers and running 35x12.5x20 at stock ride height. Ended up buying new Deegan 38 M/T's Just ordered Fox 2.0's for all four corners. Installed new brake lines A-Z, new hoses, calipers etc, next up will be upgrading the transmission and exhaust system. Hoping the new shocks smoothen out the ride as it is very harsh. I have the tires down to 30psi, also thinking of getting lift keys and then lowering it in attempts to soften up the front end. I just can't justify installing $20k prerunner suspension on it just yet.

     

    ​Truck gets allot of looks and compliments, the pictures don't do it justice. And the truck is much closer to EOM blue in the sunlight. These pics were taken near Dusk in October.sorry

     

    seems my pics are too large to attach and I suck at photo uploading, here's a link to my album

     

    http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/gallery/album/1619-ssx-build/

  8. My name is Yannick and I own a 2003 SS AWD since last summer. I'm pretty sure I had road tested this truck when it was new while I was working part time at a GM dealership.My buddy ended up buying it in 06 and owned it for a few years. He then sold it to his buddy who put tons of HWY mlg on it...I ended up finding it for sale where it had been used as a work truck so it was kind of a rescue. I will post up a build thread, can't wait to see what you guys think about it lol

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