dyocis

Yes, cv joint. Sorry for the sloppy use of axle. That's the reason I think either my viscous coupler is bad, or there's some other problem with my t-case. When I broke my cv joint, I rolled down a hill backward while in Drive on throttle. Whatever the issue is, I've got my transmission guy pulling it apart today to diagnose.

@IndyNova thanks for the reply. I am more concerned that I lose all forward motion when I break a front axle. That tells me that my transfer case is stuck in front wheel drive. Have you ever broken a front axle and been able to still drive? I've read the manual for the t-case and it would make sense that all power is transferred to the rear if the front has a free spinning tire/broken axle. Unless I am misunderstanding something.

Hoping someone can help me out. I have an 03 SS, and I think I have a problem with my transfer case. I have a sloped driveway, and the first time I jacked up the front end to do brakes, my truck started rolling backwards. I just thought that was how the AWD system worked. After doing some more reading, I see that after a front axle break, you still can still limp it home. I broke my front axle over the weekend, and lost all motion. I had to put my emergency brake on in park because the truck rolled backward. I think my transfer case is only putting power to the front end. Can anyone tell me if I am right, or explain this to me. I'm pretty confused. Thanks

I was able to write a new OS into my PCM that supports flex fuel and a 3 bar MAF. It was a little sketchy at the beginning, but I figured out how to work HP Tuners well enough to make it work.

So....after some fiddling with HPTuners, installing my ethanol sensor, and wiring it to pin 56 on the blue connector, I've found out that my PCM doesn't have flex fuel turned on as an option. The fields are there to change, but it doesn't actually read ALC% or change fueling tables. The solutions vary, but there seems to be only one real one. 1. I can try and find a P59 tune with the same OS as me (12593058) that has flex fuel turned on from factory, or 2. (The only real option because 1. doesn't exist) Buy another PCM with an OS that supports flex fuel and use that as my TUNED PCM 3. I'm not sure if this can be done, but maybe a real tuner can change the OS of my PCM and add in the segments that I need to run flex fuel? My question is: What have others done? I've read as much as I can and watched all the youtubes, but I'm a little confused about what the best PCM to get is that will give me the most versatility going forward. Another concern is that I live in CA and I've got to pass smog, so the VIN and OS has to match. I'm thinking that I'll just keep the stock PCM and use it for smog testing and use another for all the other times, kinda like my long tube headers I may be completely wrong about how I'm understanding this issue, and if I am, please let me know. I'm just trying to figure this out.

Ok, I need to change my stance on this head unit. The customer support is horrible, on top of that, their return/replacement policy is ridiculous. The reverse camera freezes the entire unit and the AV In only works sometime. I contacted customer support about this, and their first response was, do a factory reset and see if that fixes it. Their second response was, try reloading the OS. Their third response was the most unrealistic....uninstall the stereo, ALL wiring including the backup camera, and send it all back at my expense. They would take a look at it, and either send me back the original if they couldn't repeat the issue, or a new one....it would take 10-15 working days. Basically I would be without a stereo for at least a month. While I am waiting on my new head unit (Alpine Halo) to get here, I've noticed several things....The sound is terrible and the radio itself if just overall poor quality.

I got my switchbacks from headlightrevolution.com , they are the "GTR Lighting Carbide Series 3156 / 3157 LED Bulbs, C/K Compatible" I haven't had any problems at all with strobing or any other issues with them. They were pretty expensive, 40$ a set, but I think they were worth it. I'll take a short video and upload it if you're interested. I haven't been too active on here because no one is really paying attention to this thread as far as I can tell.

It's been a busy weekend, but I was able to spend a few hours on the truck. I got the rear brake rotors, calipers, and pads replaced along with the front pads. I did a brake fluid flush while I was at it. I also got a tonneau cover to hide the peeling bed liner. The more I look at the bed, the more I think I need to just replace the entire thing with an unmolested one. It's really twisted, has some holes in the bed, and is just in bad shape all around. The truck is going to be painted after I get my kids truck done, so I'm not worried about a color match. I'm sure someone has done this before, but I thought it was cool. I took the DRL light apart and wired in the blinker to it as well. I also installed switchback LED lights so they are white when the running lights are one, but turn amber when the blinkers turn on. I may replace them with just amber lights all together, but for now I like they way it looks. I'll put up a video of them if anyone is interested in seeing how they look. It was a simple 5 minute job.

I got the stereo installed, along with the dash cam. I've got a teenage driver, so the dashcam is a preventative measure to keep him from being dumb. The stereo is an android unit with odb2 monitoring abilities. I also installed a cellular hotspot in the center console (hidden) that connects directly to the stereo for internet access. I can use the wireless signal to connect phones as well.

I just installed this head unit in my truck and everything works well, and it's a stable unit. I've had other Android units in the past, and they weren't all that stable. I'm a computer geek, but I don't want to have to reconfigure my stereo every time I get in my vehicle. The large screen fits in the dash well, but the shifter handle blocks it when in park. Not a big deal unless you are trying to do something before you pull out, like navigation. I would suggest you get some sort of cellular hotspot, or set your phone up to automatically turn hotpsot on when you connect to the stereo bluetooth. The stereo really does need a constant wireless connection if you are doing anything other than listen to the stereo. I've got a cellular hotspot installed in my truck and it's plugged (via USB) directly into the stereo, so it always has internet. The audio quality isn't amazing. I've got a pretty loud exhaust on my truck, and the audio needs to be all the way up to hear it at highway speeds. That may be due to a previous owner messing with the amp though, I still need to tear it apart to figure that part out. You'll need a PAC Audio RP5-gm11 or similar integration harness, to retain steering wheel controls and chime, etc.

I believe that the rear springs are McGaughys, they sell springs with 2 cut springs on top, just like mine. I'm not sure about the torsion keys yet, but I know the drop shackles are Belltech. Unless there was some kit that mixed vendors, it looks like the previous owner mixed parts.

Maybe I'm out of the loop, but has anyone heard of cutting leaf springs??? While I was replacing the rear calipers, I looked at the springs. There are only 2 full leaf springs on each side, and the other two leafs have been cut down to about 4 inches to keep the U bolts even???? It's very weird...I'll snap a pic tomorrow

Just low and DRL lights Tail lights and 3rd brake

low, high, and DRL on New cluster

I got the new cluster, headlights, taillights, and 3rd brake light installed over the weekend. I also was able to get most of the "carbon fiber" vinyl wrap off the door handles, gas door, and tailgate handle surround. I also installed a resister into the blinkers to get rid of the fast flashing. I also did the Hi6 mod for the headlights and DRL. Now the DRL stays on with the headlights, and the low beam stays on with the high beam. I also put an amber LED bulb in the DRL, so it matches the blinkers. I'm debating on switching the DRLs to blinkers. The blinker housing the truck came with have some addtional LEDs that I can convert to DRL and both the DRL and blinkers would act as blinkers. I need to clean up the housings and put some tint on them to see how they look. I'm off to the tire shop this morning to see if they can figure out why I'm getting a pretty horrible wobble at around 50mph. I have a suspicion that it's either the wheels are unbalanced, or a bad shock. I crawled around under there this weekend and didn't see any excessively worn ball joints or tie rods. I am hearing a thump when I go over bumps, so I'm thinking it a shock. While I was crawling around under the front end, I noticed a lot of unclipped sensors (ambient air temp, airbag, etc), which further supports the truck being in some sort of front end impact. I need to figure out where they go and get them put back in place. There's still no evidence of frame damage, so I'm thinking it was pretty low speed. I'll get some pics up in a little bit.