moregrip

Great info! Would you happen to know how I go about wiring a manual on/off switch in the above setup??

so I'd like to build or buy and efan harness that uses both pin 33 and 42 to activate, but has some kind of feature that doesn't shock the electrical system (maybe 6v initial then 12v.........is there a better way) Also want ice cold A/C all the time. Want a manual switch over-ride to turn them on. How do I do this? Or who sells it? I would rather make my own as its cheaper but not at the expense of 7days research to understand it all! Can I modify my existing single pin activated harness? (Nelson's)

not sure I completely understand that explanation..... I did find this on the www........How does this apply? STR has been talked and argued about for many years. The following information is what we at Precision Industries have found by doing our own testing to be helpful for you to try to understand this subject. Our competitors must have a crystal ball to figure the STR of their torque converters. There are a couple of companies in the performance torque converter business that do have the capability to test STR, MOST DO NOT! Precision Industries happens to be one that does have. Our test dyno has the capability to test from 200 ft. lbs. of torque up to 900 ft. lbs. of torque. The other companies use dynamometers that vary from 100 ft. lb. of torque to approximately 300 ft. lb. of torque. There is an old GM printed sheet that has floated around our industry for about 10 years showing the STR of stock GM torque converters that were built back then. Our competitors either use this sheet or are guessing because they have no way of knowing what the STR really is. They also advertise STR's of 2.7, 2.9, 3.0, 3.2, etc. this is pure BS. All torque converter companies use the impellers, turbines and stators that come in the factory torque converters. In our tests we have never seen an STR over 2.55. Precision Industries do have torque converters with STR over 2.55 but these units have specially machined stators in them and are not worth the high cost for a street/strip application. If our competitors try to tell you differently just ask them to show you a picture of their test machine, not just a printout. The formula for STR is EXACT OUTPUT TORQUE ÷ EXACT INPUT TORQUE = STR. This requires a known power source and a data recovery system. STR is just what the name implies. The ratio of torque multiplication at stall. As soon as the turbine rotates (car moves) the ratio starts dropping rapidly until enough RPM has been reached for the ratio to drop to 1:1. The RPM that the ratio reaches 1:1 varies depending on other factors in and out of the torque converter such as impeller exit angle, stator design, impeller to turbine clearance, input torque (engine), etc. A fact that most everyone overlooks is that a torque converter does not make torque! It takes the torque the engine produces and multiplies it for a very short period of time. This is why some cars perform better than others with the same torque converter. Some car enthusiasts put all kinds of money in the engine, transmission, torque converter, NOS, rear end gears, etc. then want to cripple the torque converter by lowering the STR to try and prevent wheel spin on take off. This is as foolish as pulling off one of the plug wires. Why don't they finish the project and work on the rear suspension? Trying to tune your car by using STR is probably not very smart seeing how our competitors don't have a clue about what STR their converters have, after all the stock torque converter you took out of your car has a STR of 1.9-1.94. The best way to get the right torque converter for your car is to buy it from a company that has a large database of previous sales for your kind of car. Then tell the sales person what mods you have made and what mods you intend to make and let that person help with the decision. The key words here are large database. The "Johnny come lately companies" have no large database or experience with what works with these late vehicles. Why try to reinvent the wheel with your hard earned money when there is bound to be someone in our database that has the same mods as you do and their torque converter/engine combination ROCKS! At Precision Industries we found out 10 years ago that STR is not the most important consideration when deciding on a torque converter it is the whole COMBINATION!

About your TQ converter comments.......the SS and my 2wd HD weigh about the same.......I'm running a PI Vig triple disc that brake/flash stalls at 2800 rpm and it feels (to me) like it takes to much pedal to get the truck moving.....maybe I'm getting old.....but 2800 flash stall I experience is quite a bit less than the 3400 flash in this setup and by your description is driving fantastic! In comparison the stock HD converter seem more responsive on the street and brake/flash stalled at 2500rpm.....maybe that's a duh moment.....but I didn't think a jump from 2500 to 2800 brake/flash stall would make such a difference daily driving. BREAK Great progress on your truck brother! Congrats on what sounds like a whole lot of fun!

Ok cool....I'm familiar with inlet vacuum testing.....when we were converting 78mm to 90mm TB we saw a nice decease......will be interesting to see what you come up with.....I'm sure it will be all positive; especially in front of a PDB. Any idea when you will post results brother?

Oh you remember those! The J-Tubes Richard made were the nicest by far. Got it, makes sense.......

What are you doing for head unit inlets? No 102mm inlets available to my knowledge.

I wish I was able to compete but $ isn't what it used to be, for me anyway..............would be a fun challenge though!!

cool thread....the 102 TB based on the LS2 motor is sweet! Do you have any before and after dynos comparing the 90mm vs 102mm TB

Have you seen a set of 24" Intro Pentia 6's? Sweet jesus they look awesome! My vote is 24/24

what kind of quality are we looking at?

Enjoy the pics: still have about another 1/2 day or so of work left

I noticed it was broken today when I saw your truck......lol

yessir! cathedral port 2300 checking in! although mine isn't really a production setup

I'd say between 700-750rwhp

that main thing you need IMO, is forged pistons and good rings. Other than that, the 2300 will make all the power you would want

yes it will bolt right up to a LQ9, contact Brian @ Magnacharger of course you can get a ride thank you thanks bro!

this is considered are custom race setup, but yes, it fits the trucks

no polish this time brother!

so here's the new setup, enjoy the pics:

Sale Pending

hurry up already!

I don't think so bro, it would be to tall.

You get it all, every upgrade, my whole kit for waaay less than it cost me to design/build....ergo you get: -Polished MP122HH blower with 60lb injectors, every bolt replaced with ARP 12pt hardware, 90mm WCCH J-Tube. -Polished Canton oversize intercooler tank w/bracket -Custom dual heat exchanger with dual puller fans and brackets -comes with 3 blower pulleys 3.2", 3.0", 2.8" (3.0 currently mounted) -Polished Idler pulley bracket and snout support -Over 2g's in custom polish and ARP hardware -Every detail meticulously handled (you all know what I've done to it) Kit has 125 miles on it, perfect condition, going in a different direction. first $4500 plus shipping takes it will ship in Heavy Duty boxes, like the ones Magnacharger uses currently still on the truck, will remove when sold

I get 10psi out of my 122 rather quickly with an 8" crank pulley 3.0 blower pulley