204Denali

Your belt is off a rib on the blower pulley. IAT sensor goes on the bottom of the inlet elbow to the intake.

It will make more power then it did but FYI that cam is no where near optimal for L92 heads. That's a 210/218 cam (small) on a head that shines above 4K. Just as the heads are starting to get into their sweet spot the cam will be tapering off.

Ya those wheels are really nice. I think I may have talked to you about them before.

I have mud flaps, never took them off for the exact same reason.

Cool, I am curious how they do under normal road driving. My 20's are getting close to needing tires and I would like to run those but I also have roads with tar and chip so I dont want gravel sticking to them. We are running NT05R's on my buddies TBSS and they are really tacky, gravel is kinda a no no with them on.

I would say its broke, maybe some JB weld....... lol. I have no pulley slip issues yet, running a 2.9" at this time.

How much did the heads change your boost? Do you know or were multiple things changed? So ya I now see a 24deg IAT climb from 0-120, no ice. Finally got that sorted out.

Turns out I lost almost 1lb boost with my IAT drop. Also, Randy what fuel are you running?

Well mines a heavy turd, I think it has a 11.3 as is but beyond that I am not sure the stock longblock is gonna work. I had a bad headwind at the track but still don't see it breaking 11.3 as is. Was thinking of doing heads but I'll just wait and do an forged setup all at once. Don't wanna pop it with nice heads on. Need to figure out a TB setup, looks like the TPIS is working for you? I may go cable.

Awesome time man, congrats. How were your IATs? I think I finally got mine sorted out. I added a second hx and damn near cut them in half best I can tell. Hope to do a bit more testing today. Before on a 0-105mph pull I would see a climb of 51 degrees Now with similar outside temps I see a climb of 23 deg but the huge difference is that once I hit about 90mph they stop climbing and actually I think once I hit 110ish they may drop. It pulls so much harder on top now. At the track once I was in 3rd gear it just didnt feel the same. Best I could manage was 11.5 and IATS were over 160 Once again, your time is bad ass. Sooooo close.

Awesome man, good job

Cool, yes straps help. I have them on mine. I get bad wheel spin on the street, like 0-40 in .3 sec. Lol

Ya I know, my only guess is that either there is something I am missing or they did that to regulate flow by slowing down how fast it goes through the heat exhanger. I think at lower power the intercooler will do its thing regardless. Idk.

While I know Magnacharger put a lot of R&D into the kits, one thing to remember is that the kits are designed to run 6-7 psi with a 1900 bolted on top. The 2300 kit uses the same intercooler and lower manifold so with that being said a stock kit is optimized for approx 12-13k blower rpm. We are spinning 18k plus with a .4l larger compressor. That works out to 75% more airflow

Oh it's a mess, that's just a island in my garage. It's all cluttered. I need to clean everything up. So those openings in the intercooler can be opened up, however before I jump that gun I need to do more research and hope to talk to a Magnacharger engineer over winter about it.

Ya I've seen that chart and the others by Lingenfelter. I think the most notable thing is how fast the Bosch pump falls off due to any head pressure. All just my opinion and I am in the process of testing so we shall see. But my thoughts. I think you want as high a volume as possible to intercooler as the more you push through it the better your chances of keeping fresh cool water in it. On the flip side the hx requires slow enough flow to allow the air to pull the heat away from it. To offset you can increase HX size to compensate for the increased flow. Something to note, the Maggie intercooler inlet and outlet are only like 1/2" max. I can't even get my pinky into it. Not the anodized coolant manifold but if you remove that manifold the holes are much smaller. I actually borescoped my intercooler to inspect it and just because. Here you can see them

Interesting info Randy, very useful. How long of a pull did you make? I have another hx coming and plan to run two but I've been wondering about the pump. Hmm

Mine used to be similar to yours when I had a 3.2 pulley on but with the 2.9 I am looking at options to lower IATS.

What pump are you using?

Randy, did you have a scan of your wo pull? If so could you share your starting and ending IAT? I am fighting high IATS, from what I recall you upgraded pumps and hx right? I am seeing like a 70-80 deg climb from 0-120.

Sorry rob but I think I have the weight title.

Just getting more air in and more air out. Bigger cam, bigger headers, bigger exhaust, more boost. I had 10-12psi exhaust back pressure so I revamped everything from the exhaust port to the tip. Last runs was shifting at 5600 due to LS3 TB kicking rep. That's fixed.

I hope in the next two weeks, I've made a lot of changes as well. Gonna be pissed if I don't make it.

Entertainment at its best.

Fuelabs regulator instructions clearly state the regulator is not designed to hold pressure without the pump running. Just a FYI. Can't compare stock return setups to aftermarket as they have different mannerisms. Unbolt fuel rails, raise rails and injectors up. Prime fuel system and see if any leak. Just unplug your coil harness so it can't be started accidentally.