budhayes3
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Posts posted by budhayes3
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That TSB has been revised 4-5 times, had it done to my truck last year. I think the big issue is faulty VSV's, seeing how a majority of late model GMT-800 trucks have had or will have this issue.....
Could be...curious if anyone has ever tried blowing the solenoid out if debris truly is the issue as the TSB states....
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There's a T.S.B. in reference to this code that outlines replacing the canister vent valve with a new remote mount filter that mounts at the back of the block, on top of the bellhousing. It requires a few feet of 5/8" heater hose. The filter clogs with dirt and debris due to it's location. I had the same code a few months ago and the light would come and go intermittently...been off for a few weeks now actually, but I'm sure it will be back.
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has anyone ever had an oil pump pickup tube fall off and destroy the bottom end
I haven't heard of anyone losing the tube like that, but guys have pinched the o-ring when swapping oil pumps during a cam swap, and sometimes the pressure relief valve in the oil pump can stick and cause oil pressure problems.
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I am running one now and it has lasted 4 years. I had one prior and it died in 3 months. IMO, I think Optimas are just over rated. My friend had a Kirkland pos in his ranger and would leave the ignition on for hours at a time constantly running the radio and a/c without the motor running to save gas. It was his temp home. That battery never gave him problems whatsoever, and the truck would crank up without hesitation even bumping 4 12's.
How did he run the a/c without the engine running lol
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i had the same problem. Mine turned out to be the motor... If u take off the motor and open it up there will be a wire that is broken or has a bad connection... Its an easy fix u just have to open the motor up... Mine was a broken soder point so i just resodered it and it still works fine.
Well that's a cheap enough fix...I'd check there first
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The water pump gaskets are very common failures on these engines, and they're less than $20 for the pair, whereas I have seen waterpumps go for $400+. Haven't heard of too many water pump failures. If the coolant isn't coming out of the weep hole or from the front seal, I'll bet that it's the gaskets between the pump and engine. They may not even leave a messy trail behind...
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well they turned off after i turned the truck on and off a couple times, but i still want to get to the bottom of things so you think its the motor instead of the switch?
The motor/module assembly is the more common failure, I've heard of that causing the problem a few times yet never heard of anyone replacing a switch for this problem on a newer truck...
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How about swapping in a GM crate 383?
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Not really, maybe a little less carbon build up in the intake, but that's about it. EGR doesn't really hurt performance, and actually helps to lower cylinder temps which reduces detonation. With that being said, my EGR is deleted though lol. I switched to an 02 PCM a few years ago as my 99 PCM was having problems with false knock, and the 02 PCM that I swapped in did not have EGR. I haven't had any detonation problems, and the engine bay is a little cleaner looking without it.
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I'd check the integrity of the wiring harness to that coil, make sure that a critter didn't eat through the harness. Try a better test to check for spark...get an old spark plug and plug it in the end of the spark plug wire. Ground the plug (you could use a stretch of wire), and crank the engine over to see if spark jumps the gap. I'd be more prone to think that you have a bad injector after sitting for a year than a bad coil, but anything's possible.
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I idle around 625 with my 5.3 and baby cam
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Cute kid Holty, savor every moment with him. I can't wait to get off of work every day and rush home to my little girl (she'll be 3 August 31st)
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is there a way i coud find out wat kind of engine it is the number on my heads is 317 but i dont know if its an actual lq4 or lq9
If you can get a peek through one of the spark plug holes (probably need a bore scope), take a look at the piston in there. If it's a flat top it's an LQ9, dished=LQ4
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I was wondering if anyone knows if theres a diffrence between the JBA shorty headers pt# 1850s-2 and the 1850s-3? I looked on the web site and they say they will fit the 5.3 and 6.0 but, if you do the vehicle search it say that the 1850s-2 is for the 5.3 and the 1850s-3 is for the 6.0. My concern is the i can get a set of 1850s-2 for 150.00 bucks but I have an 06' SS. If anyone has any info please let me know if they'll fit and if theres any problems with these headers.
To answer this question, one of the connections to the down pipes is different between the 5.3's and 6.0's, can't remember if it's the driver's or passenger's side though. One has a built in donut while the other doesn't or something along those lines. Creederado posted pics with the difference on PT.net a few years ago.
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Also, take a look at the wiring going to the TPS on the throttle body, I've heard of guys having wires either break or melt (for various different reasons), and that would cause codes and REP mode.
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If you are just going to delete the rear 02 sensors then yea, delete the codes (in your tune file), allow the tests however do not let it report an error and be done with it. However, if you happen to hollow out the cats in the same process, you just created a more free-flowing exhaust and changed the scavenging dynamics. I personally delete the COT function in the tune (always have anyway) and redo the Ve table after the gutting process (which "corrects" non Pe fueling by correcting the airmass model to the new flow). Slightly higher peak CylAir is often the case after gutting... I compare previous logs with the "gutted logs" and see if I now operate in a different area in my timing tables. If so, I adjust accordingly. It isn't a huge change by any means however there will be some and I like to zero in my tune as much as possible. I also do a MAF table tuning session (both cruise and Pe) since I have always ran a MAF tune.
Maybe the pro tuners will chime in and offer their thoughts.
Ahhh, OK I understand, I had my mind stuck on rear O2 sensor operation (because of a car we had at work this week with a runability problem and wierd rear O2 readings), and didn't even think about the free-flowing exhaust and how it affects the main O2's...duh. Thanks Krambo
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Yes, you deffinately want to be re-tuned after the cat delete. My reply was to his original question where he basically asked if gutting the cats before his tune on June 5th would be a bad idea. There are several areas in his tune that will need to be adjusted of which I am sure his tuner will take care of.
Hmmm, any more info on this? I was under the impression that the rear O2's were just for monitoring the cats and only accounted for 1-2% of fueling?
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I have a Volant with an Amsoil dry filter, I'm very happy with it. FWIW, I used to have a K&N FIPK and I didn't feel any difference when I switched from it to the Volant (with ram air tube)
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FWIW, I've read that it is not recommended to lock the Yank at WOT, although many have and blown apart their lock up clutch.
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I've recently read here of the crush washers on the Earl's SS lines corroding away causing brake fluid to leak and brake failure, IIRC, the crush washers on my Russell lines are the copper ones which are not prone to that problem (I think that the Earl's washers are nickel plated or something like that)
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I did a "poor man's drop" on mine, removed 4x4 lift blocks (you SS guys don't have these), used 2wd u-bolts, installed belltech 2" shackles, spring clamps, and belltech lowering keys. Still using factory shocks (some belltech street performance shocks are on my wish list). If I had the cash, I'd get DJM lowering control arms (so I can still run my 16's in the winter or I'd probably do spindles), and add some hangers in the rear, as well as replacing my 285/50-20 summer tires with some 275/45-20's to make sure that there were no clearance issues.
Considering that my truck is lowered with keys and still using the factory shocks, it rides pretty good. It's a little hard and bumpsteer sucks, but on a road with normal dips it's very responsive, and it corners so much better than when I was at stock height on 33's.
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I've heard of a few Vig's breaking at the hub recently, don't know if it's a bad batch or if they've changed the way they build them. A very reputable builder who is actually a vendor of PI verters actually confirmed what I have learned and kinda steered me away from them. I was set on a PI Vig myself but now I'm kinda leary. I've been very impressed with CircleD and what they have to offer, their StageIII billet series is about the same price as a triple disc Vig and they "dare you to break it"
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Found a link to this on another site...Duramax hood on a SS clone.....i like it!!
Had to post the link..
http://rgvtruckperformance.net/rgvtruckper...ead.php?t=20099
That looks sweet!
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Here's a link to the RST spoiler copy that I mentioned, $301 painted and shipped
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/03-06-Chevy...p4506.m20.l1116
Thermostat Question
in General SS
Posted
I've been running 160* stats in all of my vehicles, here in the northeast, for years, always with good results. As mentioned, a retune is a must, or you may experience poor fuel economy and a rich biased af ratio. As for winter time, this is actually when I like the 160* stat the most, since the stat opens sooner, the coolant therefore circulates sooner, and the heat comes up very quickly. I've never had a problem with not having enough heat either, think about it, 175-18ish is plenty hot enough to keep your toes warm
(a 160* will not run at 160* btw, as that's when the stat begins to open) I'm the kind of guy that's always cold, and I usually keep my fan on the 1 or 2 speed setting when the temp is 0* outside, once the heat has come up and I've blasted the cabin to get it warm.