wait4me

Justin is correct. ANY pcm can be unlocked you just have to hack the key. Or pull off the flash chip if you are in a hurry. NO tune is unreadable. The only time a tech 2 would be able to flash a locked one is if it was locked with $FFFF. Some companys do that so the dealer wont void the warrenty for having a modified pcm program. It would be locked to any software but still programable via GM. The only software that allows you to input your own keys is EFILive. You can modify your lock code, or input one while trying to read. To brute force a pcm takes anywhere from 0 seconds to 4 days. Just depends on what the key was. The data block is 16bit so it dont take that long. It would be alot worse if it was a 32bit. I used to unlock pcms for anyone for free but i would put them back to stock before they where shipped back out. It is crap when you pay for something and cant modify it or put it back to stock when needed.

Ill send another pm to the man in charge today on the site. I want to help you guys out for sure.. As soon as i get word i will post the details.

Another Plus 1 for lc1 with the xd16 gauge. It is very nice looking and very practical. As for free air calibration that is kinda annoying the first time but if you calibrate it in the morning after your vehicle has sat for 12+ hours, it should be free air enough. :> As for tuning software it hooks right up to my EFIlive software and fixes the fuel automatically as im driving. Pretty cool watching it change the airfuel right in front of me without touching it..

Mine made that same noise. I sold it cause they said it was normal and i didnt think it was. I would hate for the front end to lock up on my driving down the road with kids in the truck... I miss the truck though As for readyness tests. If anyone would ask, all you would have to do is tell the dealer that the battery went dead 2 days before and you had to jump it to get it to start.

In simple words. IF the cats are still on, leave the Cot protection on. If the cats are not on, Turn it off and dissable the cat codes and rear o2 sensor codes and be done with it. The reason for the ability for you to tune the cot thresholds on Temp is to make up the difference for Aftermarkt highflow cats. ALSO there is an AIR Fuel modifier that modifys the commanded air fuel ratio when the pcm is various Cot Modes. Come Cats require different amounts of fuel to be added.

This cam actually worked out pretty good for me. It is the current cam in my Race car with a f2r procharger. It is VERY drivable. the 118LS helps with low end drivability. We take it all over the place and drive the car to every track we go to. at 26lbs of boost on the 408 it hits 1113 hp. Ive givin tons of rides to people that come to visit and they can all vouch for how daily driveable it is. Well, as long as the boost controller stays open. NA on the same engine with that cam and 8.75compression, it hit 517hp. Changing your heads or the amount they flow also is in a way the same as what you are doing by changing your cam shaft. It messes with the amount of flow going thru the engine.

What year of truck? If it has a IAC valve then i would try to clean that out to see if it helps. If you have an after market fuel pump by chance, Check fuel pressure when you first turn on the key. If it is really low or bleeds off fast, you may need to pull the tank again and fix the leak. It is usually at the rubber on the top of the pump.

WOW good find! It would have been messy if you would have been using a comp 918! No funny noises? Just a miss... Yeaouch.

That cam would be fine for Supercharged applications. I used that cam in my CTSV with a maggie at 10lbs. It made 570 to the wheels. Without the cam and just the maggie at 10lbs it made 527hp. Both with a safe tune. The cam is just a little choppy sounding if you want it to be, or you can make it as smooth as glass at idle. So, i recomend it to anyone who just wants a little kick over stock. Plus Lingenfelter has that cam kit for cheap. Cam AND springs where very good priced.

I dont want to talk anymore about it until i pay for the sponsorship. I havent heard from them yet and dont want to make anyone mad.

Hold up on buying it. Im trying to get you guys a MAJOR discount group buy "and bonus thing" for the EFILive software on the V1 and the V2 units. I have pmed the mod on here asking for instructions on how to set up for me to do this for you guys. The Price will be More than worth the wait.

Hi Guys, I have no idea what the heck this stuff got started from. I HAVE NEVER STATED THAT I AM A TUNER ON THIS FORUM nor started ANY Pm conversation asking someone if they would like to buy something from me.. ALL i did was go thru this section and answer EVERY post that NOONE else answered for people. I have NO intention of taking your business from you. As for pms? I have not been soliciting crap thru here from any posts. So im not sure where the heck you heard that from? The reason i dont hang around set forums is lack of time, NOT because 2 other companies show up. That is the funniest thing i have ever heard... The Reason why i Declined being a sponser on this site is due to lack of time. I tune 40+ vehicles a day, and Fly out to Companies to teach them how to tune on the weekends.. I Really Dont have time to take on any more load. I Clearly stated that in my pm to the Mod that kindly asked if i was interested. At that time, I replied That i was ONLY ON HERE TO HELP OUT PEOPLE WITH TUNING QUESTIONS. Any time i get a minute of free time, I just go around helping people. I like to do that. Forgive me if that is not a good thing to do... As for the Force motor current table. IF you dont think that is the correct way to do it then obvously you dont understand how the PCM interpets and sets itself up for final commanded line pressure. If you would like to know, Call my shop and i will walk thru how it actually works. It is much different then people seem to think. The setting of "90" for example, That is actually just going to a certain pinpoint of the force motor current table. Then The transmission temp determines the other point. The result of those 2 points is the final commanded Amperage of the force motor soloniod. THE LOWER THE NUMBER ON THAT TABLE THE MORE LINE PRESSURE IT MAKES> Torque management pulls TIMING NOT LINE PRESSURE. So pulling tm does not make it shift firmer.

Move the line pressure tables back to stock, then go to the force motor current table and take out -9% from that whole table. Then go for a drive.

I prefer a street tune over a dyno tune anyday. Our trucks are on the STREET all its life. If we have our wot fuel where it needs to be "Same way as on the dyno using a wideband" , and the spark is set where we want it" max with no Knock retard" , AND the drivability is perfect "Hard to do or see problems when on a dyno" , then you have a better tune all together. The only thing you dont have is braggin numbers from your HP sheet..... However, Numbers dont mean to much if the Dyno used has not been properly calibrated. Remmeber, the dyno has a perameter that states the rotating weight of the roller drum, if you make a bigger or smaller number on that perameter, it changes the values of hp and torque made. so, if someone wants to cheat they can I made a 78 hp ford escort show 320 on a run to mess with a couple of peoples heads in town on a dyno day. No one would race him that whole weekend! it was hilarious!

Usually mototron 60lbs are pretty good to work with. BUT you have to specify a lower minimum on and off time so they will be smooth at idle and will have permission to shut more at low rpms.