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BILLS04SS

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Posts posted by BILLS04SS

  1. UPDATE: hopefully this will help someone with similar issues.

     

    New rear baer rotors and hawk pads on the rear. I definately had to shim the rear calipers to get them even over the rotors. I think this was a major issue in my first experience with this setup. Used my GM Tech 2 to auto bleed the entire system. I Used the auto bleed on each wheel starting with the passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front and lastly driver front. What a difference. I have way more pedal and no more front shimmy in the wheel or pedal when braking. The brakes stop on a dime and I still haven't installed my hydroboost setup. I plan on doing that next weekend. I must say that the tech 2 rocks and I only wish I would have coined up and bought one earlier. Feel free to ask any questions..

     

    Bill

  2. hey guys,

     

    I've searched all over and wanted to be sure I'm getting the right parts for doing a hydroboost upgrade. I have an 04 SS and wanted to know if an 04 2500HD hydroboost pump, power steering lines and power steering pump will all work before I purchased.. Just wanted to confirm. Thanks for your responses.

     

    Bill

  3. Hey guys, been a long time since I've posted on here. I've had a Z06 upgrade for several years and have been happy with this setup. For the last couple of months, I've been having bad pulsating when braking in the front left driver side area. I can feel it in both the pedal and steering wheel.

     

    I figured it was a warped rotor so I replaced both the driver and passenger front brakes with,15" baer rotors, brand new one piece hawk pads, and a brand new calipers. Believe it or not, I'm having the exact bad pulsating in my front left driver side when braking. I didn't even get a chance to bed the pads yet. Any ideas? The one thing I didn't do is replace or touch the rears at all. I was going to get the rear rotors turned and replace the pads next. Not sure if a problem with the rear would effect the front. I also wanted to note that I did a complete brake fluid flush using a Motive products Power bleeder bleeder as well. Thanks for your input in advance.

     

    Bill

  4. Just found this site and a perfect fit. I own a 05SS with AEM Brute Force Intake, Pioneer AVH4700BS, two 12s under the back seat powered by a Kenwood 1000w Amp. I also have mini light bars installed in the bumper vents.

    Welcome to the site.. I haven't been on in a while, but you will find a wealth of information and a lot of good peeps on this forum.. Enjoy

  5. So I was riding home and lost all brakes on the freeway...fun in after work traffic. Figured I lost maybe a line. Ran tbe rest of the stop signs home.

     

    Pull it apart and I shot a piston out of the caliper, lost a puck. Inside face of rotor is done, rotor is done! Been nursing this along since I got it, was scored and never really got a good mating of the pads and rotor.

     

    Dust boots. Carlson 41290, need a set for each side. $10

    Caliper pistons. RBperformance. $138

    Pads. Autozone wtf? Duralast DG1419. $59.99

    Rotor surface. R-baer 136-6910312. L-136-6920312. $282.50 ea

    Total-773.95

     

    Still trying to run down better deal on the rotors.

    The caliper pistons will be stainless and are better that be stock aluminum ones.

    Will post pics later.

    I just had this exact thing happen to me last week.. I blew a piston on the drive side front caliper and lost a puck as well. I had to ride the emergency brake all the way home and was scared shitless.. I even tried pumping the brake which didn't do much at all. I'm not sure if I should just get new calipers or what now. I was also getting uneven wear on my pads like yourself.. I'm not sure if the new style brackets will help with this problem or not. Not sure if I should go with new calipers or just get a new BIG brake kit.. Pretty pricey decisions to make.. Keep us posted on anything you find out or decide to do.

     

    Bill

  6. No, Ray took the original brackets (guy from PerformanceTrucks.net IIRC) and made the new(er) style to fit the Baer 15" rotors vs the 14" powerslots.

     

    (Old Bracket on right)

    JeffsSSS036.jpg

    These are the brackets that I just received from Rudy as well. Jeff good to see your still around, although I hate to see that you sold our SS brother... :(

  7. Hey All,

     

    been a while since I've been on here and even longer since I've posted.. Hope everyone is well.

     

    I have a quick question regarding the passenger side plenum area above the blower motor housing. I took out my blower motor yesterday to replace it and the dreaded blower motor resistor. Your not going to believe this, but I can look directly into housing area directly from the outside of my truck. I would think there should be a shield to protect it from rain. Does anyone know if there is a shield that goes over this area? As it is rain can directly get into the blower motor when it rains. Thanks for your responses in advance and it's good to be back.

     

    Bill

  8. :pop:

    Im curious myself on what the outcome will be. You said you turn it about half a turn and it gets tight? So the threads on the Earls match but the Russels dont? Yeah either an adapter or maybe carefully run a thread tap through it? Ive replaced factory calipers in the past and itd do the same thing. The reman calipers are sandblasted and painted, so the banjo threads on the caliper need to be chased before you connect the brake lines, or it'll get about half a turn and get tight. Definitely dont wanna force it. Lol. Keep us informed!

     

     

    UPDATE: OK so I really even hate to admit this. I talked extensively with Earls and Russell yesterday with regards to my fitament issues. The guy from Russell double checked the part number and told me it was correct.. To make a long story short, I decided to try it again with the russell lines. Again, the line screwed into that hardline about one turn and stopped. I decided to use a line wrench and just go for it.. after about a half a turn it started to go in smoothly and worked as stated. I am by no means an idiot and have worked on cars/trucks for a very long time. I just wanted to be sure not to screw up my hard lines. With that said the correct russell part number 672430 worked perfectly. I'd also like to add that the quality of the russell lines are much better than the Earl's. I hope that my experience can help others out.

     

    Bill

  9. I have the same kit. Russel 672430. The installation instructions says the kit is for 1999- 2006 Gm 1500 truck 2WD ,4WD ,AND AWD. I haven't tried to install mine yet. I'll have to call edelbrock on monday

     

    I know this an old post, I'm pretty amazed that there seems to be no solution to this ongoing problem :cry:

  10. From what I can tell it's a bit hit or miss.. I know the Earls's lines fit perfectly. Another thing I noticed is that the Earl's lines have/had a square banjo at the calipers where the Russels have a round banjo connector. You may get lucky and have the hard line connection match up perfectly. I really wish someone would address this issue since it's not the first time I've seen this topic around. I may have to go with an adaptor if I can't find a resolution soon.

     

    B

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