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Bowtie70SS

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Everything posted by Bowtie70SS

  1. I had a similar issue. I needed parts 670 and 674 http://www.manualtransmissionpart.com/mm5/graphics/pdf/np149-2012.pdf My truck has 160k and I had a Maggie on it at one time. I am on my 6th transmission so by the law of averages it was time. Mine popped under a load. When I took the case out and apart I cannot see how it still worked as the splines we ALL just about completely gone.
  2. Yeah I haven't been on here in a while. I decided my SS truck addiction was taking away from my 70 SS Elcamino and 70 Pro Touring Chevelle addiction LOL. I have the same screen name here, LS1Tech, Team Chevelle. I do miss this forum and the great folks here. Sorry it's been so long and thanks for the info. I have just been too lazy (and cold) to jack up the truck and check. I will let you guys know what I find. Dave
  3. I have a 03 SS and it has developed a problem. It drives straight and smooth but when I hit a bump or a rough patch in the road the steering wheel shakes violently. So much so that I have to hit the brakes to slow down and stop it from jerking back and forth. The truck has Belltech spindles and drop springs as well as drop shocks. It has been lowered for 5 years and I have replaced the front diff as well as both CV axles in the past. It has nothing to do with the steering shaft or wheel weights. I am leaning towards ball joints? It does seem to be coming more from the LH side than the right. Do the pitman arms go bad as well? Truck has 130K miles and both inner tie rods have been replaced as well. Dave
  4. I'm looking to buy a stock air box and a partial wiring harness to the throttle body so I can fix my intermitant REP light. THanks Dave
  5. Yeah down in Ky you have that ghetto gas (91 octane). Just bustin balls Shay. I normally use 93 octane and I hate to spend the $$ to fill it but what the heck to me it beats driving a Honda.
  6. I had asked Shay to bring me some mulch since he was coming up so I could fix his truck. He didn't want to take a chance crossing state lines with a load of bootleg mulch so he smuggled it in under the intake. Seriously though I was very suprised to see that crap under there. The foam end pieces were still in place on the intake. Good thing I had a couple of spare knock sensors from my original engine.
  7. He is coming up north this weekend so I can fix the knock sensor, run a scan or 2 and flash the PCM. IF a crack develops in the honeycomb material it rattles around and grinds itself into powder and clogs the cat. You guys already know this I'm sure and I agree we need to figure out why but without the original owner???? I was planning on running a cylinder balance test via HPtuners. That should tell us what's up, that along with the scan. I just happen to have a couple of spare knock sensors. Dave
  8. A buddy of mine is gonna buy this truck for $14K. It has weird looking dual exhaust and has had some paint work, a small dent on the bed rail and a clear carfax. We think it came from Virginia and is currently being sold in Kentucky. If you recognize it let me know. Thanks!! Dave
  9. I have had my TBTC for 2 years behind the radix. On my last trans rebuild (output shaft broke) I have the converter cut open to check it out. Everything was well. I sometimes tow a 5000lb car trailer an it didn't hurt anything. I also recommend you add a billet output shaft to your list.
  10. I maked the crank pulley with a paint pen. I checked the balancer bolt and it is tight. I do have HP tuners to log with. I was using a piece of nylon to cover my air filter. I took it off of there today and it seems that was my problem? I didn't make a full pass on it but it builds boost better/quicker. I am swearing off of mods for now with the exception of a 2 bar tune in tune near future. Thanks for the replies I'll keep yall posted. Dave
  11. 3 Engines...Let's see #1 was due to a clogged catalytic converter(melted the rings to the 3 pistons). Engine #2 was a botched build by a local "reputable builder" where the loosest cylinder had .100 skirt clearance tightest was about .035 on Mahle forged pistons (calls for .025) sounded like a diesel had a ton of blowby. #3 is alive and well but just a 10K mile LQ9 pullout from a Escalade. 4 Transmissions #1 Stocker gave up at 65K burnt high gear clutches. #2 Broken output shaft. #3 Broken output shaft and everything else inside. #4 Alive and well with a billet output shaft. I reused my shift kit, Billet servos, valves and converter on all of them. So you see why I may be just a little frustrated. The worst part is I can blame no one but myself. Dave
  12. I have been through many trials and tribulations with my truck. In fact I am getting almost sick of it, almost that is. My most recent problem is that it seems like I am only building about 6 pounds of boost where I used to get 9-9.5. I have a maggie with a 2.9 pulley, engine is stock, gutted cats, custom tune. I have had 3 engines and 4 transmissions in this truck and I have it about back to normal till this. The things I have checked are: Vacuum/boost leaks at line, loose intake bolts, marked crank bolt/pulley to check for slippage, replaced Gatorback with a new one 110.5 inches(old one was glazed I know it was slipping when it got wet) . What else? Do the bypass valves fail? I'm at a loss here. Thanks!! Dave
  13. Success!! After pouring ove the pics of the ground routing and checking each one, I found the ground that comes out of the transmission harness where it runs off of the back of the engine was unhooked. Apparently I missed it or something and my problem was intermittant because occasionally it would make contact. I lightly sanded the contact and bolted it to the back of the pass cylinder head. No more problems!!(So far) I really hope this helps someone some day, and eventhough you may get frustrated just step back and go over everything one more time. Later Dave
  14. Here is a thought I just had...could one of the relays on my fan harness be sticking or backfeeding power thru the PCM with the key off? I mean if the relay is bad then it could/would feed power back thru the IGN 1 relay via the AC compressor wire to the TAC module via the ETC fuse and cause the TAC to power up before it runs thru the self tests. I may have caused water intrusion into the relays when I hosed the engine off. I'm gonna replace the relays or at least remove them to try my theory out. I really hope this is the cause cause I'm going nuts, and if it is hopefully it helps someone else out. Later Dave
  15. Well, I thought I had my problem fixed but apparently not. I threw codes P1516 P1518 P0102 P0220 all related. My truck is doing the wierd thing again where if Ipull back on the turn signal lever to the "flash to pass" position it cause all of my accessories: fans, lights, fuel pump, etc to come on like there is a short somewhere. Wierd thing is I cannot clear the REP mode unless I manually turn the headlights off before I start it and it will stay out of REP mode as long as the fans don't kick on. I don't think it's a overall power draw problem but whatever is shorted is causing a voltage drop at the TAC/TB. I consider myself proficent with a wrench and have done everything to this truck: swapped engines, trans, etc but the bundle of wires under the fuse box and at the PCM leave me some what dumbfounded. Now I wish my truck wasn't so modded cause I really can't take it to the dealer now not to mention that the problem is intermittant. DOH!
  16. I took the cover off of the fuse box and unlatched it. I look underneath and moved some stuff around. I also crawled under the truck to make sure I didn't pinch any wires with the transmission. I left it sit with the fuse box cover off most of the day. It seems ok but I still don't trust it 100%. It was somehow backfeeding thru the headlight switch (when you pull it to bright) and if I hit the haigh beams while the truck was idling it would die. I imagine something was wet? I was also beginning to worry that my BCM was bad. I still don't know exactly what fixed it or if it really is fixed. I'm really starting to lose patience with my truck at this point. As for the harness I had no problems with it for the last year and everything seems ok now and they are controlled thru the pcm but I was told that 03 and down trucks don't have the capability to run the fans correctly unless you use the 3 relay setup like the Nelson harness. Thanks for all of the replies. Dave
  17. With the radix it's hard to get them wet. I am not seeing anything that would lead me to them but a good idea none the less. If all else fails I'll pull the intake.
  18. My e-fans have been on there for over a year with no problems. I did recently install my 4th transmission though. Maybe I pinched something (unlikely) I'm gonna dig into it further today. I'm thinking I got water somewhere when I sprayed the engine off but that was over a week ago.
  19. I had another thread going concerning a Reduced Engine Power problem. The truck had cooled down and I started it, ran fine. I revved it and turned on all accessories A/C ,high beams, stereo, defogger and my battery voltage never went below 12,7 when the fans kicked on but only for a second. Everything was fine until the truck warmed up to about 185 then I hit the gas hard and it went to REP mode and died. I have already changed out the PCM,pedal, and TB with spares I had. I loaned my extra TAC module and another TB to a member here, even paid shipping and he won't return it...nice guy HUH? Anyhow I was messing around with it after it did that and I found something odd. If the truck is turned off key out and I pull back on the high beams both the high beams and the E-fans come on...WTF? This is something new. Dave
  20. I guess it's possible the alternator is bad, but the battery went dead with nothing hooked up to it. Also I was reading up on P1518 and one of the TSB's says "Inspect S102 if there is a P1518 stored. S102 is in the engine harness and is 5.5 inches from the MAP sensor." Ok what the hell is S102? Is it a fuse link or some kind of connector? Dave
  21. Funny thing is that it starts fine. The REP mode has gotten progressively worse (or so it seems). The battery dosen't seem low, but I have been told that it could still be the problem. A buddy of mine runs a repair shop and has encountered similar problems with other late model cars/trucks. A bad cell/shorted battery can do wierd things. BTW I have a 140amp alternator from a H2 that I installed with the e-fans and the volt gauge on the dash does not drop below 12. I guess I need to check my negative cable also from where I had it unhooked.
  22. Forgot to mention that it will go into REP mode with the key on before you even crank it...unless you leave the headights off.
  23. It's been a while since I 've been around here and I gotta post/ask about a really wierd thing that's been happening to the truck. I have had some transmission issues. Number 3 and 4 due to output shaft failure. Now I have a hardened output shaft hopefully that's over. I finally got my truck back together after sitting for a month with the battery unhooked (Red top Optima). The battery was dead as disco, not good. I charged the battery and got it running hooray! I went and hosed off the engine the next day and then the following day REDUCED ENGINE POWER..Sh!t I've been down that road before so I blew out the connectors for the TAC and TB and thought I was good. Nope I was wrong it would go to REP mode randomly or so it seemed. I would restart it several times until finally it would clear. Tonight I had a little 1 hour 3 mile trip and was determined to find out what happened. It got dark outside and I would clear the code and mess with the wiring under the hood at the TB and the TAC module, even swapped out the pedal with another one i had NO GO. I was about to give up when I reached inside the truck to turn it off and accidentally hit the high beams BAM right into REP mode. So I clear out the code and restart it then hit the high beams again...REP mode. So what I am thinking is that my Optima is bad and causing a voltage drop under heavy load that is F-ing up the signal between the TAC and TB. Apparently low voltage there is a problem. Also it seems that when my e-fans would kick on it would go to REP mode. So now I'm thinking that either my battery or my PCM is bad...I'm gonna go warranty out the battery tomorrow. Any other ideas?? Sorry for the long post and I hope not to stay gone for so long this time. Later Dave
  24. I ordered a billet shaft...was like $580. My line pressure is at stock level or lower. I have Sonnax billet servos and a Zippy shift kit with a TBTC. The shift isn't that harsh...not to me. 1-2 is the hardest shift but the others are good and "firm". I have not raised the pressure manually via the set screw on the valve body. I guess we'll see pretty soon here.
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