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zippy

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Everything posted by zippy

  1. This is old, but the answers I'm seeing are embarrassing. The 2004 was only sold in a few states. If I recall correctly it was Texas, Oklahoma, and Louisianna (something to that effect). The 2005 was made to be ordered for anyone that wanted one. These were the equivalent of a normal Silverado 1500 except with the LQ9, 4L65E, 9.5" 14 bolt rear differential, and standard 20" wheels. In 2005 the Silverado 1500's were changed to a larger front brake assembly and drum brakes in the rear. The drums were chosen mainly because the parking brake with the rear disk brakes weren't cutting it. If you drive a 99-04 and then drive an 05 and up the parking brake is massively stronger. From memory only the hybrid and AWD SS in 2005 should have rear disk in the 1500's. In 2006 and 2007 the Vortec max was the next name used and it was the same idea. Based on the normal Silverado 1500 it was also the same LQ9 and 9.5" 14 bolt except with a 4L70E. The difference in the two transmissions (4L65E/4L70E) was the hardening used on the input and output shafts. The Vortec Max trucks was a massive fail from GM since it should have been available back in 1999. There isn't a reason that exists for the extreme laziness in building the 6.0L 1500 series. Someone at GM seemed to think the 6.0L was something special when really it's just a bigger engine than a 4.8L or 5.3L. There are times when not doing their job is more important to them. The main change that the Vortec Max brought on is that it was available in extended cab and crew cab as well as 2wd and 4wd. The 2005 was only available in 2wd and extended cab form. The 2007 Vortec Max in the next body style introduced the L76 6.0L which was an aluminum block engine with square port heads, VVT, DOD, etc... . This made the 2007 Vortec Max in the new body style more powerfull than the 2007 Silverado SS and Vortec Max in the previous body style.
  2. It certainly is. Not my type since I figure if you want something that low buy a car. It's a ton of work to make the suspension work correctly that low. The picture reminds me of one of those art photos. It's pretty creative actually.
  3. Because I'm curious. What does using oil have to do with a lack of oil pressure? Bearing clearance or oil pump issues aren't related to oil pressure. This has me curious... As for the tuning issue there are probably 15-20 tuners who know what they are doing and roughly 10,000 or so tuners out there. Choose wisely.
  4. It's good to see you still have the truck. You were one of the first to get an SS and the first from memory at least to receive a Silverado SS Magnacharger kit. The transmission issue is an odd one. I've had customers who can't keep one together with a basically stock truck and then guys who put over 100k on the stock transmission with a shift kit in a 12 second SS. Build, tune, and torque converter choice are all big for the 65E. The SSS is like a truck built to be modified.
  5. The Whipple isn't better than a Magnacharger. That's a simple proven fact. The Whipple does a good job of doing what you want it to do. A screw design is better at higher boost levels, but always makes more heat than the roots type which is hard to do. Outside of that the LQ9 is capable of over 20psi with proper tuning, fuel, and spark plug heat range. That doesn't mean it won't break at a lower boost level since anything can have a part failure. For a lower boost level that you'd find with that blower you'd be fine with a stock engine or one simply with forged pistons. If you plan to do any more than that just buy a 4" stroke crank and go bigger. The stock crank and rods will handle well over 700hp without a problem. Some do forged rods and pistons and even worse some do crank, rods, and pistons in stock stroke. This is a waste of money since a stock engine can handle the power level most build them to. If you're thinking of doing the rods and pistons just do the crank as well. The only real difference at that point is the cost of the crank since rods and pistons are generally the same cost for a 408 and a 370.
  6. zippy

    Hptuners

    Without the internet you'll want to download the latest update from the HPT website on another computer and then use a flash drive or something of the sort to load the update.
  7. The normal 4wd system is better since it isn't always engaged. Either way you can just change the front passenger output or lock it in engaged mode and buy a Silverado SS transfercase. If your truck is already a 4wd it's an easy conversion.
  8. This is good to know. I've had a lot of calls on the 80E swap stuff from people who couldn't find the part. It seems it may just be lack of communication.,
  9. Possible that the transfercase could have caused a failure in the front diff, but quite unlikely. A normal half ton front diff will do the job if you change the passenger output assembly. Finding a 4.10 gear is simply more uncommon. If it's just bearings and ring and pinion assembly I would simply replace that in yours.
  10. The open and Gov-Lock should take the same axles. I've seen this listing before and from memory the difference is whether or not it is equipped with traction control even though some catalog's list it has the differential carrier being the difference. Some have a reluctor on the axle shaft for the ABS/Traction control. There should only be 2 different choices for a 2003 if they are looking it up corectly.
  11. I've had a lot of calls on people having a hard time finding the conversion stuff for the 4L80E. This is where I recommend them to find stuff or info at the least. 4L60E to 4L80E Swap Information - PATC - TransmissionCenter.net I however don't recommend the swap in general unless you are making some big torque. Without a question it will slow your truck if you don't making a big torque number.
  12. What was your 60' time, boost level, and nitrous shot?
  13. zippy

    1/8 Mile Times

    You're missing that those times are full of s**t. A 7.5@99in the 1/8 mile would put you around 11.6 in the 1/4 mile. That Bully Dog tuner must be also a progressive nitrous controller with a 250-300 shot.
  14. I'm going to try to update everything this weekend. Post up if you want your stuff updated.
  15. zippy

    list

    It is still there at the top of the page. I'll try to update it this week.
  16. I know this is a bit late on my reply to this posting, but I'll say congrats on here as I did on the phone when you ran this time. I've said for years that the TVS2300 has more than enough kick to it to get these times and yet I see time after time that people try to get there by making their setup over complicated and for no reason. More will eventually follow the 10 second number, but I don't see it being common. Along with many mistakes I see to much of the idea for over camming and over boosting. Well done Randy...
  17. The Jet and Granateli sensors are stock sensors with fancy stickers on them. There is no real gain in changing them. I would go into the long answer of it, but basically leave the stocker in there.
  18. With yours being an LQ4 you should be plenty fine with the stock gakets. The LQ4 has plenty of valve relief so you should be plenty fine. Just call the dealer with your vin and order the stock gaskets.
  19. I'm hoping to make it to one of these soon myself. I run NT05 315/35R20's in the rear and 275/40R20's in the front and will soon be switching to 315/35R20 NT05R's because as much as I love burnouts I need a bit more sticky. If you're power level isn't massive though I would recommend checking into the Hankook ST or also listed as RH06 depending on where you buy them. They have a high speed rating with a load rating as high or higher than factory which is important depending on the tire store will be a big deal. I ran those tires for years and with the suspension working in your favor you can get very good 60' times out of it.
  20. There are alot of options, mostly depending on budget. I would either go with a set of Trick Flow 225's or PRC 237's with chambers setup to be around 63-64cc. From there I would order a set of Cometic gaskets in .041" thickness at 4.000 bore for the gain in compression. The cathedral port heads make great power if done well, but compression will be very important in making them work since you need more cam with them than a rectangle port cylinder head. If you do that with a cam such as an MS3 or Torquer V2 and a very good flowing intake (and 102mm TB) such as a Holley High Ram, Victor Jr, or Fast LSx (car version) you should have a mid 12 capable truck with a 4000 range stall. Another way to go would be to use an LS3 port style head such as a Trick Flow 255, GMPP CNC LS3, or PRC 255. With those heads I would recommend a Holley High Ram, Fast LSx (ported only), GM LS3, or Victor Jr. (with plate to bolt 102mm throttle body directly to it). If you do the LS3 type of heads you will keep the chambers around 68cc to keep the piston to valve clearance as high as possible by avoiding milling at all costs. All three heads listed flow massive numbers and part of this is with big valves which can hit the LQ9 pistons which have no valve relief's if you aren't carefull. Running a cam similar to the 281LRR HR13 (231/247) will get you the power band you'll need to also get into the mid 12's. The rectangle port has the shot at making more power, but carefully done both will be very strong. The 4L80E will slow the truck a bit, but the taller first gear will help in keeping tire spin down.
  21. I would recommend a set of 80lb deka's also although you will have plenty of room with them if you have the tune correct. The sidemount Whipple will give big dreams of power, but without the power. You will make a very decent 500RWHP or just over if you push it, but you will run out of blower very quick. The ideal pump would be a 450 Walbro, but the problem is the fuel pressure regulator which is in the fuel pump module will have a hard time keeping up with it and may give you a high pressure at idle as a result. With a good tuner though you can get around that and still make for good power and driveability. The returnless systems (which actually have a return... It's just in the tank) can be difficult for making big power. I would put it on the list to change over to a standard return style system with a nice return regulator running off the fuel rails.
  22. That is quite strange. I don't remember if you had a pcm sent to you or not, but if I sent you one my first question would be did you do the crank learn? With a crank learn not performed the pcm can pick up a faulse missfire condition and turn off the a/c as a result. You may have to have someone scan it to see if it is speed only related, or rpm, or pressure, or... Let me know if there is anything I can do on my side.
  23. Best boosted sensor for the Holley intake is the LS9/LSA map sensor. The only way it will be an issue is if you have the wrong tuner. The wiring info is available online or as an adapter from Casper electronics. BTW, who in the hell told you the SSS pcm doesn't support a 3 bar map?
  24. zippy

    Zippy

    Both phone numbers are me. I have two phones on me all through the day.
  25. I assume you aren't aware that he already has one. The 4.8L, 5.3L, 5.7L, and 6.0L use the same pump. There is no difference. If you go to a dealer and give them a vin for an LS6 powered Corvette and a vin for an SS truck or 4.8L truck for that matter they are the same part number. The LS6 thing is a marketing tool when actually they are the same part including part number. If you want to buy a pump buy a Melling 10295 or 10296. Anything else is pretty much a stock replacement of what the truck already came with.
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