ccgoodwrench
-
Posts
628 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by ccgoodwrench
-
-
I still have my2003 all though I bought it in 2005 with 20,000 miles, now it has 57,500 still going strong
-
Hello everybody haven’t posted in a while, hope everybody’s doing good. Anybody know how to update hptuners? I’m using a windows XP laptop,without internet, I really don’t want to buy another laptop, if anybody has any experience on this is much appreciated, thanks Chris
-
Just wondering if the 2003 SS is considered a collector vehicle in NJ? Dose any body have any experience with the process? I read on motor vechicles website, the vehicle has to be less then 25 years old, driven less than 3,000 miles a year,have collector car insurance, and be limited production. I’m thinking the Ss might be limited production because it has a different engine identifying character in the VIN no, and is AWD, any thought’s on this, just trying to save on insurance and inspection fee’s
-
Yes I still have the Ss 46,000 mi. on it now, and all is well, thanks
-
Hello everybody, Haven’t been on this site for a couple of years,thought I would say hi andwish everybody a happy new year
-
Try gmpartseast.com put your vin number in and you should be able to get the correct gm part no. for your truck
-
I don't recommend doing this. It's what I wanted to do, it was easy for me, took about 5 minutes to cut the hole. If the pump every fails on the road, like mine did, I wouldn't want to tilt the bed on the side of the road. 10 minutes and new pump installed. Also was planning on upgrading the fuel system someday.
-
I cut my bed just make sure to coat all the cut edges with paint. Just four screws and it comes right off. I put four tabs to bolt the piece back on,I used a jigsaw, here's a pic. Mine needs another coat of pantNeed opinions on what kind of fuel pump to buy? good prices out there? Aftermarket?
Should i save money and cut a hole in my bed and do it myself or bring it to a shop?
decisions decisions...
-
I hope it isn't post jumping, I wish I had the time to do a frame like shawnss is doing. That is amazing good workAccording to rockauto the idler is a 3 or 4 spline. I have to get the pitman too but I was hoping to only get dirty once but I guess I'll have to climb under it in crappy NJ weather and bust off some nuts. Thanks for your imput. I hope this isn't considered post jumping??? HAHA.
-
Yeah I have a 03 and it is return style fuel line, I see you are from the hockey state does that mean Calagery CA?
-
I thought they were in south jersery. Where is Holgate? Looks likes cool placeright across Long Beach Island. In fact, that's LBI-brant beach area in the background here
And the sunset pics, right across the end of Holgate, but on my back side
-
I don't think the idler arm has any splines, I think you mean pitman arm(attach to steering box). Best way to tell is to pull the nut on the bottom of pitman arm and count the number of big splines, hope this helpsI guess there'll be some SS Silverado's around in 50 years. Power coating the frame seems to be the only way of keeping rust away. Great job and you are a brave man tearing into your truck that far. The wiring harness along has me cringing seeing all those wires....
Since you have it apart, I have 2 questions. Since you have it in plain sight... LOL Can you see how many splines on the idler arm shaft and is there any way to install a front differential disconnect? I need an idler arm and I'm not sure if I have a 3 or 4 spline. Thanks.
-
Awesome!!! What part of the shore are these picture's from?
-
How do the fuel lines hook up? Is this setup for returnless fuel system?
-
I have stock manifolds, in south jersey
-
Cracked flywheel maybe? Or lose converter bolt?
-
My coworker had same prolbem, no tran's indicated, I disconnected the battery for a few minutes and hook it back up and it has been fine ever since, about a year ago, I did that. He had a 2500 with a4l80. Might be worth a try
-
Here's my 89 Toyota, I bought new off of the showroom floor at a Chevy dealer LOL. Just finished a new cyclinder head and cam in it. Also two month's ago installed all new brake pads,shoes rotor's,drum's and wheel bearing's front and rear,new wheels,tire's it all stock except for a 3" body lift32" tire's and 4.88 rear's
-
SOLD!!!
-
I have resister for sale if you need it?
-
thanks, I do sometimes get knock retard, will let you know how it turns outThe reason it is required after a camshaft swap is simply that the cam sensor reads the camshaft itself for the cam reluctor. The crankshaft learn is to calibrate the crank and cam sensor together. If you don't do this after a camshaft swap you can end up with a faulse missfire condition (worse than even the lope itself causes) and also end up with knock due to inaccurate timing. Odd enough it can also cause a missfire at idle.
The proper steps for crank learn...
Get the engine to proper temp with an engine that will not die if you rev it.
Set park brake. Sounds stupid, but pcm looks for this.
Open HPT Logging software and connect laptop to the truck.
Click File tab and then click Connect
Click Displays tab and then click VCM Controls
Go to Specials tab and if all is ok you will see a ready box to click on.
Hold left foot on brake entire process from just before clicking ready to after done and don't let up until done for sure.
Click Ready and stab throttle hard either to wide open or close to it. Do not follow HPT instructions to slowly rev it. Rev it like you mean it. GM actually calls for wide open with the Tech 2 when doing it. If you feel it hit the limiter at 4k rpm you will know it worked. Once it hits that limiter lift as fast as you can react. Let the engine return to idle and when ready comes back to the screen you are done. Exit scanner, shut off the truck, and leave engine off for 30 seconds or so. Fire it back up after and you should be done. There is no confirm mode with HPT.
-
are you coming to the area or wiling to pay shipping?I'll be willing to buy I'm in North Carolina
WiliamstownWhere in South Jersey.... I'm up here in CT and would have interest.
Thanks,
Rob
-
Yeah have to be a local buy, here is a close up pic, not sure why but my pictures form my iPad turn upside down and blurry?
-
thanks for the info, is their a step by step how to for crank relearn?, I retuned the MAF and truck is running great, very smooth throttle response. And my trims are around -2 to +3, I just haven't turned the p0300 code back on yet to see i get the immature history for p0300, it was just annoying it would sometimes light the check engine lightI was going to reply to this a while back and simply forgot about it when I was on the last few times. If you don't know the proper answer... DO NOT REPLY... My biggest issue with post on here lately has been all of the people posting who have no actual knowledge about what it is they are actually posting about. Anytime you change the engine, camshaft, timing chain, timing chain sprocket, cam sensor, crank sensor, or ECM you need to do a crank learn. Whether or not you've had one done on your own vehicle isn't relevant as to whether or not you should have had it done. On the same point, even if you don't get a code for it you still need it done. When doing the job on HPT it won't tell you if you were successful. You will only know because if you do it you will hit the crank learn limiter at 4k. If you didn't do it correctly it will just rev. I will add that it doesn't mean to just lower the rev limiter to 4k, I once had a customer do that.
and then told me he had to do that to get it to take. Do not do that.
New to me, SS 03
in Member Introductions
Posted
Nice truck, are you keeping your wheels?