CNE
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Posts posted by CNE
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So I have been thinking about selling my truck, see my sig for details on mods and performance stats. It still has false knock and needs a retune, I thik it would run mid 13's without the 7*KR. Body condition is fair, it has some minor wear and tear. The bed has some scratches inside easily covered by a bed liner. I have just kinda lost interest and looking to pay some stuff off. Probably going to be in the $15,000 range.
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OOOH I want to go. I would also love to have a retune. I will contact Justin about pricing.
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If you push for it and tell them you don't trust it, you can get them to extend your warranty usually to 100k miles. They commonly do this with customer concerns that can't be resolved.
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You should be trapping more than 95 if you are spraying it with a 100 shot. I have similar other mods without spray and I trap about the same.
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My OBX's have been on for over 30k miles with no leaks. They went in from the bottom with ease. I did ditch the clamps later and had them welded. You will need two plugs since they have 6 O2 holes. Use the factory gaskets at the head. Mine are very close to the frame though and may be the reason for my KR but I'm not sure. Also, you will need to tie up the plug wires for 5 and 7 to keep them off the header pipe. I just zip-tied them to the coil. I really figured I would have had one burn by now and have carried an extra wire in the truck but never had to put it on.
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Restricted cats would cause rich fuel condition and black plugs, not white. White is an indication of a lean condition. Look closely at the valve springs and rocker arms. A broken spring could still look ok from a distance. A worn cam lobe is also a possibility. Either of these would cause a tick noise and lean condition if it was the intake valve since fuel is not going into the cylinder. Listen to the injectors, you can unplug one at a time or use a screwdriver as a stethoscope. A bad injector could tick louder than normal and would cause a miss and lean condition. However, if it is missing, you should have an engine light. I have also seen O2 sensors go bad, fool the PCM into thinking the bank is rich, then the PCM cuts back fuel unneccessarily. As you can see, there are a lot of options. The best thing is to find a scanner that works and see what your O2's are reading.
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I was going to say water pump. It made sense. I have seen multiple issues with leaking only when cold and when first started. It can be a small enough leak to evaporate without seeing it. Coolant on the belts would explain the squeal and AC issue and also if the engine temp gets up, the AC shuts down. The good news is it's a piece of cake to replace the pump. Good time to put in a 160 t-stat but you will need programming to prevent the low coolant temp code.
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I agree, 60 is overkill for 8lbs. but I would go with the 42 at least. There is no point in supercharging if you can't support it with the fuel it needs to do it's job. No need to cram air and not more fuel.
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Typically if not in salt, they will easily run 100k and longer. Here in NC when I was at the dealer, we would occassionally get one from up north and it was usually the rear rotors that would rot or flake. I would replace the pads if you are going to put rotors on it. Also get a pair of park brake shoes as well. They tend to wear out even if not used.
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I want nitrous sooo baaaad
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Mine is not show quality be far but fun to drive. I have used it for the last 3 years as a work truck for my lawn care business and it has gotten scratched in the bed. It needs a good buffing and waxing. They do the Freaky Friday every month so we will see how many more are interested. I'd like to have a pretty good group of at least 10 maybe.
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Wow 33 looks and not one comment.
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Check out this video, it shows my tips. I found them at a local muffler shop and had them done with Magnaflows. They are slash cut that we turned sideways and angled them to line up with the body.
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I just noticed Sour Cream and Onion and Original. Wow, he must have a whole 3 bucks in this one. ROFLMAO
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I saw this and just about died laughing
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You don't need a bearing, just the bushing where the driveshaft goes in. And the seal of course
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Be sure to clean the rubber out of the fender wells, they could deny the claim.
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I've seen under the hood on a lot of Chevy trucks, never seen that before.
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My light came on right away and you will tell a difference.
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I missed the last NC meet in Charlotte. Is anyone thinking of doing another one. You know they have Freaky Friday in Fayetteville the first friday of every month. All night test and tune, grudge and fun runs.
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What color and method did you use on the wheels. Paint or powdercoated? I want to do mine that way and also the emblems, lower scoops and my billet grille.
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I don't know what the ss line sells for new but I paid $945 shipped for my Pro Truck 3200. Sounds like a deal for somebody.
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14 to 5 compression?
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Gauging Interest In My '03 Ss
in For Sale/ Wanted
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I will try to post one. Stock outside appearance, silver 20's from the factory. The only outside difference is the side exit exhaust.