Fast2500Ak
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Posts posted by Fast2500Ak
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Is your friend the inventor of Direct Exhaust Injection (DEI)?
Mike
lol actualy, I've never seen him do anything to his engine that hasn't worked no matter how crazy or dangerous. He's either a genius, or really really lucky. But still, don't judge someone until you driven a mile in their truck, that way when you judge them you're a mile away and you have thier truck.
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I was just curious, no this is not something that I would ever do to my truck, I was just wondering if it actually worked. It did on my friends truck but it was an early 90's chevy with a single cat. It just seemed like a funny redneck way of gutting them. According to him the ceramic material just shatters and gets thrown out the tailpipes, come to think of it do they even use ceramic any more?
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It sounds like a horrible idea, and probably is, but I have a friend whose done it multiple times and the engine miraculously seems to survive, he puts the truck up on a hill and pours oil down the tailpipes while running, takes it out on the highway and they explode inside or something and afterward the cats no longer seem to pose a restriction. Just wondering how filling the cats with oil kills the them and not the engine because it has to be inducing cat failure and collapsing them. I don't know, it just seemed intersting. Anyone else ever heard of this? Just curious.
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I think they would have been better off to not put all kinds of visual crap in it and concentrated on performance. I guess the 64-bit capabilities might make up for some of it in the long run, on the other hand my XP professional 64-bit works just as good. DX10 ten brought a few new graphic capabilities to it though. I heard a long time, ago back when it was being called longhorn that the were going to release it with their new file system winFS, but they never finished it. I think it works ok as long as you have a system that can handle it and shut off most of those stupid visual features.
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Perhaps it could be that the GT23 is letting the engine consume more boost? I'd imagine that with a larger intake duration it might be that its holding the valves open longer per rev allowing boost which would otherwise have remained in the runners into the cylinders themselves. Also I think a wider lobe sep with a N/A motor midrange compression goes down, I think thats right at least, so then what dynamics might that change in a blown motor? My guess is you've lowered boost but increased efficiency through greater boost consumption. Also with a larger exhaust bias the engine should be able to exhale a bit better, this would lower the pumping losses. I've heard when a blown motor gets clogged by a bad cat the boost pressure increases. It could be this principal in reverse?
Also, not that that cam has much overlap but it might be possible for the boost and charge to get thrown out as the valves overlap.
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If it's not the frame, really stiff shocks might make it less noticeable.
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Is it possible that some loose wires inside the doors are touching? It would make sense that every time they touch or separate the truck thinks you are pressing the button, or the switch is broken and it rattles. My mom's Tahoe has never had this problem but they seem prone to odd problems like this. Or perhaps it is that your truck is possessed which would explain your dealerships hesitation to work on it.
If it were me I'd try to take off the door panel and see if anything seems out of place.
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The crank bolt threads directly into the crank; if the threads are damaged inside the crank snout you should see evidence of that on the bolt. If the crankshaft must be drilled and re-tapped sure you could do that with the engine still installed in the bus but personally I would not do that, I would tear it down and get the crank on a fixture so as to get the drilling/tapping perfectly rifled down the centerline of the crank. Freon is not a danger to you, just the ozone layer; I would bet that by now all the gas has certainly leaked out. Pulling a head on that engine is very straight forward but if you have not done something like that before I would recommend walking through it once with someone.
Mr. P.
Well its not loose, maybe I just didn't tighten it enough. Either way I'm don't think I'm going to try to pull it over with the bar. There is no evidence of damage to the bolt, in fact it looks a lot better than any other bolt I've pulled out of it. I think I'll take of a head.
That thing is sweet! Judging by the headlights and the battery placement I'm guessing it's a '55 or '56. Could be a '57 based on the hood.Are you sure that's an A/C compressor and not an air compressor? What kind of braking system does it have? Did they have air brakes back then? That's got an awfully big wheel and piston to be pumping freon.
Those old trucks are a lot of fun to drive. Get ready to practice double clutching. I don't think the low-end gears in that thing have any synchros.
Yeah, thats what I'll bet it is! I'm betting that explains the big EATON button on the shifter too. According to my dad the one thing that didn't work very well when the bus was parked was the breaks though. Maybe the pump is stuck, keeping the engine frozen in pace.
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I pulled the crank bolt and it looks ok. It's not rusty and the threads seem pretty much intact. This leads me to believe the other tapping in the hole might be damaged. Is this something I could try to fix?
Thanks
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Its always awesome when cops are cool. My mom and I were rolling along on the way down the alcan, we were getting close to the border and trying to make up time. Long story short we tried to pass this guy doing about 80, he sped up, we sped up. The radar decector went off and mom ignored it. Then a cop flew by showing us his lights so we pulled off. He knocked it down from a 87 (he caught us doing 97 but didn't get a fix right away) in a 55 to a 64 in a 55.
Do you have a fuzbuster? My friends and I all convoy back from college with CB's, its a 6-8 hour drive, needless to say we can make it in about 4. Its awesome driving in a pack because you have a lookout way ahead and a spotter behind. We haven't been pulled yet. We have Cobras and beltronics for radar protection.
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Anyone? Can I take it out without having anything bad happen?
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Can I take the crank bolt out without hurting anything?
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My friends and I convoy back from college to anchorage (an 6-8 hour dirve we usually make in about 4) with some CB's. It allows us to test the units we use against eachother.
I've always used Cobra's and my roomate Matt always uses Beltronics. We found that the beltroincs have a split second delay, but have far less falsing. The Cobra's on the other hand are severly paranoid, they go off at lots of things. Old grage door openers, planes, railroads, and power lines. But I just slow down for all of them and have never been pulled over.
I like Cobra becuse they work and are fairly cheap, but then again if you drive really fast you might want to get a more expensive unit.
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I'm not putting alot of force on it, it gets moving at about 60 ft/lbs, but there is resistance it it possible that the bolt is stripped?
I'll pull it out tomorrow (pulling it out won't mess anything up will it?). It doesn't feel like its trying to move the crank alot.
If the bolt is stripped can it be replaced, and if the place it screws into is stripped is there any fixing it?
And how hard is it to pull a cyllinder head on an enigne like this? That would give me a good idea of what's going on, but do you think it'll be hard to get back together again?
And if I do try to take a head off, what do I do about that AC unit, it's in the way but I'm not sure if it still has any pressurized freon in it. Is that likley, and could that be dangerous.
Thanks again for all the help!
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Alright, I got a really long ratchet, and I hooked it up to the bolt at the center of the ballencer. It turns, reluctantly, but the harmonic ballencer does not. It doesn't appear to be broken and it feels like it's tightening, but in this cold weather I'm afraid that it might be too brittle to keep wrenching on it.
What I need to know is, should the crankbolt be doing this? I kind of thought that it would stay put unless the crank was moving with it. Should I keep tightening it, or remove it and see if there is something wrong?
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shes a tank!
My thoughts exactly! I just have to get her to run.
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Yes! thats it!
Where did that pic come from?
Here, the sound didn't import for some reason but you can see the situation.
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Its on the left side I think. Near the front.
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When I tried pulling on the crankbolt the other day it just wanted to tighten or loosen, granted I didn't try very hard. I was afraid it might break, is that at all likley. I suppose it would be best to heat it up so it's not bleow freezing. Good point on the sparkplugs, I'll take those out today.
The carb needs to come out anyways, I don't like the idea of a jerryrigged return spring, the last thing I want on an anchient schoolbs with practially no breaks, is an anchient schoolbs with practially no breaks stuck at WOT.
I'm still working on vids and pics.
Thanks again for all the help!
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Ok I put the marvel oil in through each barrel of the carb, I guess now all I can do it wait.
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It posted twice for some reason.
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Thanks, thats good advice. Yeah I didn't think I would be able to run that old fuel. I found that turning on a mysteroius switch in the cab causes fuel to pour out of the generator, (Really glad I caught that or I might have left it on) I think the tanks are connected so I can probably get the gas out by just catching it. As far as the engine I'll try to get a picture of it. I was so excited when I realized there was writing on the valve covers under all of the grime, I used some wd-40 and low and behold all of the writing wiped off making it the "mystery engine." but here are some things that I know or guess.
- big-block chevy
- Old AC protruding up at the upper left hand side (looks like an old sewing machine)
- it has a seporate waterpump/fan assembly connected by a belt off the balencer putting the fan near the top of the enigne
- numerous heater cores all connected with bad hose
- Massive 4 barrel carb/ manual choke, lines entering from the back, and what aapears to be a jerryrigged retunspring.
- the only thing on the bus badge wise either says "ava," which I guess is the type of bus, or "CHEVEROLET" or "CHEVEROLET 6400 SERIES"
- It's hooked up to a maunal 6 speed with granny low and an aftermarket EATON locker in the rear diff
- the spark plugs are next to eachother in groups of 2, unlike my trucks enigne which has evenly spaced plugs
- the distributor is centered at the back of the block and the coil is right next to it
- Interestingly unballanced five blade fan, three blades at the top then two at the bottom
- the alterantor looks newer than the engine, on a righthand bracket opposite the AC
- the tensioner is halfway up the block on the left side directly below the AC
- There are two battery trays, one black positive cable (that had me confused for a while) and a corroded ground which I replaced. The other tray I guess hold a battery which connects to a very back yard-looking-mechanic set of alligator style connectors which I have traced to the generator
- I am using a commercial 12 volt which fit right into the tray. It runs everything fine, the starter sounds great and all the little things like fans, headlights, heater motors all run strongly.
- the harmonic ballencer is at the base of the enigne and has two belts running off of it
- oil filler at the front of the enigne offset slightly to the left on the front of the block
- radiator hose at the far left bottom of the engine, the other it at the top near the center slightly to the left (behind the oil filler)
That's all I can recall from memory
Well that ought to give you some idea until I get some pictures up, if this sounds familiar maybe someone can id it. Thanks again for the help I'm going to try the Marvel Mystery oil tomarrow.
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Sorry for the long post but I'm trying to get these problems resolved fast, it's already below freezing most days and It's gonna be in the -40's to 60's all too soon. I really don't like the idea of doing engine work in the cold.
Ok, I have this old late fifties early sixties school bus. It’s big, old, (and if it'll run) awesome. My dad turned it into a party bus when he was in high school and when he went away to college he just parked it out behind my grandma’s house. I never really gave it any thought but now I'm going to college up here in Fairbanks I've been trying to make it run. I didn't even know Chevy made school busses, but apparently they did.
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So here are some of the problems it has if anyone has any suggestions I'd greatly appreciate them,
1. Lots of old fuel, I just thought it was the one 80 gallon tank, but there's apparently a generator in the back with its own 80-100 gallon tank. I know the main one is full, and the other at least has some rancid gas. Is there any other way to rid of it other than burning it, or siphoning it off? Can something run on it?
2. The some of the wiring is bad, lots of fuses bypassed but everyhting seems to work.
3. And worst of all, the engine won't turn. It’s a massive Chevy engine, I'm gonna have to guess 500 something CID gas engine. The starter just clunks against the flywheel, but the flywheel refuses to budge.
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Here's what I've tried so far:
It ran when parked, so I think the some of the piston rings are a stuck to the cylinder walls. I've already tried WD-40 in the chambers, and then I tried PB Blaster, now 5w-30 synthetic oil trying to get them loose. Which has yet to work
My friend Joe says that I might be able to put some 2 stroke oil in the chambers and fire them one at a time, but that sounds like it could damage something and I don't like the idea of fire around all of that gasoline.
So I took out the radiator and fan so I could get to the balancer thinking I could get to the balancer thinking I could just yank on the crankbolt till the crank moved but it just tightens and loosens.
Joe also said that a ratchet strap around the flywheel might move it but it could also break it off, which would be lame.
I'm thinking I might have to take off a cylinder head, but I don't really want to because I have no idea what kind of engine it is, I assume a Chevy big block. Also there’s a really scary looking relic of an ac unit which I'll have to take off, and I honestly have no idea if it still has compressed Freon in it. How hard is it to take off a Chevy big-block cylinder head.
Sorry again for the long post.
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Well, if you have an injector that's slightly clogged it migh help. I remember my parents first yukon, it was only about 16K and it got some bad gasoline and some of the injectors got a bit cloged and it hurt preformance. I'd say its good prevenative matinence. Besides you can't be the price 7 dollars a bottle.
Newbie With Hemi-ram...why Is The 5.3 Faster Than Our Hemi And Ss Truc
in Off-Topic/General
Posted · Edited by Fast2500Ak (see edit history)
The 6.0 in the 2500HD trucks don't have flat head pistons like the SS, its a lower compression but I think what you might be feeling in the 5.3 is the lower first gear of the 4L60e, the ss has it too. I have a 2500HD too and that 4L80e is indestructible and all but it has a really high first gear which makes it seem logy in the low end. The 6.0 in the HD's are just bored 5.3's with slightly different heads. The SS 6.0 (LQ9) has a higher compression ratio. Also the new Hemi's aren't really hemi's like the early ones were, they are pentroof heads with the sparkplug that fires down. Also if its the 2500hd with the 4.10 gears it won't have that touchy low end, I noticed this in my parent's chevy's. Higher gears can feel more responsive, even touchy, until you give it a lot of gas, then you feel the loss of mechanical advantage.