shawnss

Yes it is 2 credits to tune your truck once you have tuned it you do not need to purchase anymore credits you can just keep tweaking your tune or even do a complete new tunes. So once you have paid for those two credits you are good to go as long as you don't switch to a different tuning software and stay with your HPtuners. its been awhile last time I bought credits was $50.00 each but that was awhile back.

Yep Flaco's old truck. that truck just keeps getting faster.

Nice. yeah it will improve the look for sure. it already looks good as is. but I'm a fan of tint its about the first mod I do to all my vehicles. But ti also keeps to have a good friend who tints for a living Lol. I had all the windows on my 2500HD done in 5% and my wifes two fronts done on her yukon for 150.00 cant beat that. As for spending to much money on go fast parts Ive been there a time or two.

Looking pretty good. How low is it? Can you guys not have tinted windows up there or tinted windows not your style?

Only reason my truck has ever throw than was because I had a loose ground cable. I have heard of other members getting the same thing but there is a few different issue that can cause it to come on.

VERY nice it looks really good on you truck and really pops with red. Nice job again.

Yeah it looks like I still have both the back door cladding. I know yo just need the one side. I do have it. If you want it Id do $55.00 shipped to you.

I'm pretty sure I have the passenger side rear door cladding piece. its Arrival blue in color. if thats what your looking for. I will check when I get home tonight.

Thanks for the great info. winter came to fast this year and I had to rush to get my Adams products out of the garage and brought inside the house. -23 for a week straght freezes stuff fast in the garage.

Do you know any of the specs on the cam that was used?

So far it looks pretty sweet. nice work either way. I'd like to see it on the truck. but the craftsmanship looks great!!!!

Meh thats how winter is here for a good stretch of the winter months. as long as my vehicles are starting I'm ok with the colder temps. its funny becasue I see when the east coast gets cold or snow it seems like they shut everything down. Its been many many years here and they have never shut school down because of the weather. But I guess montana's are use to it. we had a 2 week stretch about a month ago and it was -26 out I had to bundle up a bit more for those days Lol.

Wow very nice. Its hard to find something like that around here without big $$$. looks very clean. it would be hard to get me out of the garage. I bet the heat will be nice during the winter.

good luck with the sale. Guys do want these. but its hard for somebody to drop 1k for a fiberglass pan that has to be molded to fit? asking more then double the price you might sit on it for along time. Got mine for $400.00 shipped GLWS.

Hmm wow crazy never heard of that. i have always just replaced them. But I'm normally pulling the pistons and rod's out and doing a complete rebuild so the heads come off anyways. Heck I once torqued down a set of new head gaskets and didn't even run the motor and had to take a head back off. i didn't even risk running that gasket and just bought new. nice to know you can do a head bolt swap with replacing the gasket.

I think you have to replace the Head gaskets when replacing the factory head bolt's. you will need to remove the heads to replace the head gaskets. I have always replaced head gaskets. once head gaskets are torqued down and heated up they are not reusable after you remove the head bolts. as for the rod bolts there is a spacer deal in the bottom of the rod cap you have to remove before the new ARP rod bolt will fit. when I have removed all my factory rod bolts i have had to tap the rod bolt out of the bottom of the cap. it has a little shank deal that is pressed into the bottom of the cap. you cant just pull the rod bolt out. there is a little spacer deal that holds the rod bolt into the rod cap. you will need to get alittle punch to get your factory rod bolt out. If you look at the top of your ARP bolt where the head is you will notice it has a tapered part right before the head of the bolt. your factory rod bolt does not have that but instead uses a little shank to center up the rod bolt when going into the cap. the rods are whats called a cracked rod and must go back the same way they came off same side and all you CAN NOT 180 the rod cap it must go on just how it came off that is very important. Its kind of hard to explain. Ill try taking some pictures to show you what I'm talking about, Are you doing all this with the motor still installed in the house. Heres a picture of a factory rod bolt I just took out. you can see the little collar/ sleeve deal thats on the bolt. that little sleeve is pushed into he bottom of the rod cap. once you unbolt the rod bolt you will notice you cannot just pull the bolt out that because the little sleeve/ collar deal is lightly pressed into the bottom of the cap. you can just take a small punch and tap on the head of the bolt and it should pop right out with the bolt and sleeve together it doesnt take much force at all. heres a picture of the factory bolt with the sleeve on it and a picture of the ARP rod bolt. you can see on the ARP rod bolt its a hair bigger at the top of the bolt towards the head.

Yeah you should be able to without any issues. I'm a 3/4 with a 305/35 tire. really depends on the offset of the wheel. Mine are a +30 with very little rubbing at full lock steering. not bad at all. been running then for a few years with no weird tire wear.

I have only ever ran 24"s on my truck. At stock height with no issues what so ever. What size tires you running? What offset wheels? I ran a 305/35/24 without any issues. I lowered my truck 3/4 and it barley rubs only at full lock. Nothing bad just a slight little bit. Doesn't tear up the tire or effect them in any way.

Sucks to hear. But like you said. its gone to hell in a hand basket. Its not the forum it used to be and I too spend a lot of my time on other forums. It sucks to see all the memebers leaving but things have to change for it to be a decent site.At this rate this place will turn to a ghost town. Sucks to see it come down to this.

Really its pretty simple. I'd say the hardest part was building the trans crossmember and taking apart the t-case to install the shaft. other than that it was simple and those werent even that bad just takes time.

Looks like he was on the forum tonight at 7;15PM DID YOU PM HIM

You can also have a cam Speced for you for close to the same price and have it fit your needs. check it out on PT.net I had Jared user name stock48 spec a cam for me. he is a good guy. there are also a lot of other company's who can build you something for your needs,

So is the truck done yet?

Go with a spray-in liner. the plastic drop in liners are Meh ok. they trap water and dirty and all sorts of nasty crap under them. they also rub different area's in the bed and remove the paint so when the water and crap gets in there it just starts to rust. Reason I know is because I did spray in bed liners for a few years and had to remove the drop in plastic liners to do a spray-in. In my book spay-in liners are the way to go. the brand we sprayed was Reflex I really liked it compared to other brands on the market. I would stay away for the brand Rhino lining and line-X. I have Line-X in my truck and its very hard anything you put in the bed of the truck just slides around. Both Rhino lining and line-x are this way. the material cures so hard its almost like thick plastic so everything just slides. Reflex is nice stuff. its a bit softer than other brands. it hold up really well unless your extremely hard on it. I'd say its great for days to day use. but I would not recommended it for a contractor or guys who a very hard on the beds of their truck. reflex has almost a rubber feel. I like it because objects you place in your bed stay put. When I sprayed it we did color matching as well. all we did was take the paint code off the truck and get a quart of paint and add it to the liner material before we sprayed it.

For the ease of things I'd go with a Blower/Supercharger if it were me and didn't do a lot of the work myself. either of the above brand will net you great power. What is the over all goal from the truck. I would over build now. I have set a goal for my truck a few different times. once I reached that goal I always wanted more. I always wanted something faster. I have never had a supercharger only ran turbo's a love them but they do requirer a bit of upkeep from time to time. If I ever decide to go the supercharger route I like to try a ProCharger kit. You will need to either upgrade to a different trans or build your current one. a stock 4l60E is just a ticking time bomb IMO when adding boost. or any real power adders.