kevinh
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Posts posted by kevinh
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I called Him and left a message, using the phone # on his web site . Also E-mailed him using the E-mail address on his web site. Then sent a PM on this web site. No return reply from him at all. Hope that He's still in business doing Gauge Cluster Repairs.
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Anyone know if AKA Silverado 777 (Steve L.) GM Gauge Guy is still in business? Looking to have my Gauges done. Gas Gauge died. So I was thinking about doing Gauge Cluster Repair and Led Conversion, Bezels & Needles. Thanks for any info. Kevinh
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thanks I know it may be dumb questions but I know my stuff but was not a efi guy and to be honest I know I can do it but it is a lot to learn so any help is appreciated
You need the PCM tuned for the cooler thermostate.
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I'm thinking about swapping out my belt driven fan with an electric fan, and maybe going with a low profile radiator. I assume that I will need to change to a smaller belt since I the electric fan won't have a pully, anyone know what size belt I would need to go with? Any recommendations on the brands that seem to work well? Thanks.
you should also go with a higher output alternator for the fans if your still useing stock alt., then you will need a longer belt.
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Hit the spindle on the side with a big hammer. Can add a little heat too. Or try the pickle fork in an air hammer
Had the same problem with mine we beat on drivers sides for 1.5 hours with a heavy hammer and pickle fork before the first one came off. Passanger side we beat on it for 1/2 hour then we purchased a smaller not as beat to death pickle fork and it came off in 15 minutes. Almost as much fun as getting the factory hangers off. I guess the answer is to use the right tools for job. I guess that we did it cave man style.
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Trying to remove my rear rotors off an 04 silverado ss. They seem to be getting stuck and there doesn't seem to be any place to adjust the emergency brake shoes. Any Ideas how to get these off?
I also have a 04 SSS there is a adjustment screw for the parking brake. I also had a little bit of a hard time removing rear brake rotor the first time it was removed. As I was pulling on the rotor evenly, I could feel the emergency brake pads hanging up on the drum. I wiggled the rotor side to side while pulling it off, and it finally slid off. (The rear Calliper needs to be removed first.) To adjust the Parking Brake, Gm has a set diamention to adjust the pads to. The drum clearance is .026 or .6604 mm. There is a good article in the How To area, HowTo Parking Adjustment on this Web Site.
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I agree, on the Timken hubs they are junk. If you have to go to GM parts direct, ebay or amazon and buy yourself some Moog wheel hubs.
I just purchased and installed Moog Wheel Bearing Hub Assemblies(MOG -515036) from Summit for $239.94 with free shipping. They were made in Korea and look to be well made. I hope that they hold up.
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I wouldn't be interested in a blue one send me a PM on how much I'll PayPal you the money
I'm also interested in a blue one also send me a PM on price and I'll Pay Pal you the money.
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do yourself a favor
i have the 2-3 front and 3-4 rear kit
Djm parts with belltech shocks
trust me ive been lowering these trucks since late 02 when the 03s came and the combo i have has by far best ride and feel.
Tony I just finished with the install of the same kit that that you just sugessted also with the Djm rear sway bar that I purchased from you. On the rear hangers and shackles I used the holes that made the truck sit the highest and the truck sat 2" lower than stock, on the front I turned the torsion bars up almost as high as they will go.(they will go up approx. 1/8" higher) The truck sits
1 7/8" lower than stock and the CV's set straight. I like the height of the drop now and how it handles with the shocks and the rear sway bar. I had the truck aligned by two different shops,and neither shop can get the camber in to factory specs. Is there a fix or add on to take care of this? Wickedowesix mentioned he used a camber kit?
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I've had Line-X in my truck from day one.......Would NEVER put a plastic drop-in liner in anything I own, they do more damage to your paint than having nothing at all.
I bought my truck brand new in 2004, had it only 3 months and had Line-X sprayed into the bed. Almost 10 years old and it still looks good. They didn't have the colored Line-X when I had my bed done. I would have gone with the blue to match my truck. The Rhino liners that I've seen are thicker sprays. I liked the Line-X better.
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I think I'm blind, I am looking and looking and can't find your number in the sig!! Lol
I was thinking the same thing, can't find your number in the sig! Glad to see you back on the site also missed your informative posts. Hope your health is in the upward swing of things. Is your new shop staying in the same town?
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so im getting ready to install a PI vigilante triple disk 9.5" 3000k stall, my current trans mods are - transgo-hd2 shift kit, 2/4 apply vette servos, billet overdrive servo, and a b&m trans cooler, i do plan on replacing the b&m with a tru cool40k. but my ?? is other than what i already have done/ planned what other upgrades can i do to support this converter without a complete tear down of the trans, i had hottelsss recommend a .500 boost valve, what else can be done with im installing the converter, a full tear down isnt in the budget, thanks for input in advance
The Transgo-HD2 C Shift kit that I had put in my SSS came with a .500 Boost Valve.
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I have one 12599 (3" DI/DO with integrated X, 22" long, oval body) and two 14419 (3" SI/SO 14" long, 4" overall width, round body) mounted in the pipes right before the muffler. The droning is only very slightly lower with the added mufflers in front of the 12599. I initially installed the 12599 by itself to replace the stock one.
I have a simmular exaust parts in my truck (2 1/2" DI/DO with integrated X, 18" long, oval body) and two (2 1/2" SI/SO 12" long, 3 1/2" overall width, round body) I asked the installer why he used 2.5" instead of the 3" muffler and he stated that it was easer to use a pipe spreader to spread the 2.5 openings to fit the stock exaust tubing rather than to shrink or fill in the differance between the stock exaust tubing(less chance of leaks). With just the muffler it had a bad drone at about 2500 to 3500 RPM. Then he installed 2, 2 .5" ressonators mounted in the pipes right after the drivers side and passenger side exaust comes side by side passed the 90 deg. bend just pass the cab. I asked if it mattered where he added the ressonators, he said closer to the cab the better, because that is where you are hearing the vibration at. It worked no more drone.
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Your truck is a 2003 it came with the second style (thermostate built into housing) unless it was changed over to the 2004 and newer style seperate thermostate and seperate housing. Hope this helps you. Kevin
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welcome back.. some of the photos from the how to section no longer work for me.. but the text is good...
Glad to see you back on this site again. Your how to's with photo's made wrenching on our trucks easier and more enjoyable for us beginners.
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So you replaced all connections? fuse holders, connectors at the fans, and at the relays? sounds like an entire new harness?
Still haven't had time to check for voltage drop before the fuses blow. I've got an email out to PCMforLess too.
No just the quick disconnect between fans and relay,fuse box.
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ok im going with an FLT Level 5 tranny, PI Vigilante multidisc 9.5" (3200-3400)converter, TSP 228r 112lsa cam. got the efans and 8.1 marine injectors.
Question! which heads should i get?? i plan on getting a head and cam package from Texas Speed. they have pretty good package prices. just not sure which heads will work and what i should go with? im told there might be clearance issues with the L92s even tho they seem popular. also that will accept my stock intake.thanks
The L92 heads have d- shapped intake ports and the stock intake has a cathedral ports. So you will have to replace intake also to use those heads.
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Ive upgraded to efans a while ago and now I'm sitting on the side of the road waiting for the truck to cool down.
Using the harness from pcmforless and fans from an 05 silverado, I've popped both 30amp fuses.
Having only a paper clip, I McGyver'd the new "fuses" and both fans worked...until the paperclips smoked and melted the plugs. Back to overheating.
Normally been running near 210... Doesn't take more than a couple minutes at a long light and its up near the red.
I was going to sleep at home tonight but now am looking into hotels.
Any ideas what could be causing the fuses to blow? I wouldn't expect oem fans to draw 30amp so could both relays be bad?? If so, does anyone know where to get replacement relays for the pcmforless efan harnesses?
I had simular problems with my HPM E-Fans not working and blowing fuses. The problem turned out to be a bad connection in the quick disconnection between the fans and the fuse blocks,relays. I replaced the quick disconection with new one and there back to working again. I hope this will help you out.
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feel free to text or call my cell phone that is in my signature. that is a much easier way to get ahold of me. just make sure if you call instead of texting, leave a voicemail so i can get back to you.
John :cheers:I can't see your # in your signature. I wanted to contact you about some Performance Mods. Thanks kevinh
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Also the truck has sat for a long time.
Please chime in with your experience with the AC Delco Pro series or Optima battery and would you buy it again? from what i've read on this web site others have gotten good life out of there stock AC Delco batterys when they were stored by using a battery tender charger. Almost all of my driving is in town (stop and go) my stock AC Delcos(2) only lasted approx. 2 1/2 years. I swiched over to the Optima Red Top after that I,m on my second Optima right now. I'm getting over 5 1/2 years out of them and very happy with them.When it comes time again I'll buy another Optima.
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All SSS have dual piston front calipers from the factory.your 2003 should not have dual piston calipers on the rear. they should be single calipers with 12" rotors the front should be 12" rotors as well.
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It got a little chilly here in Fla. last night it got down to 42 deg. You got to love it,fla . winters are great.
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I had the same problem on my 2004 SSS. Chevy gave a 5 year extended warranty on the Instrument Cluster. I was lucky mine died within days before extended warranty ran out.My fiance has been borrowing my truck for a while due to her car needing some work done. This morning she came home and said "Don't kill me, I think I broke your truck!" lol
Well, apparently the speedometer is stuck at ~40mph and won't go below it. It goes up as you drive around but it won't come back down.
GM Gauge Guy
in Off-Topic/General
Posted
He is still in business he just E-mailed me back. There was a problem with the first E-mail. Thanks for all the help. Kevinh