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Took me about 4hrs or so. The hardest part was fitting them in there. I fought pretty hard to get the pass side in. Other people have had easier times. It all depends on how you approach each side - from the top or bottom. Get that right and it shouldn't take too long at all.

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Given how long the ASMs are, each side may not be the same. These things extend beyond the firewall. Usually, you'll end up coming from the bottom for one and the top for the other. I know my driver side went in really easy from the bottom. I wished I would have done the passenger side from the bottom, but I was hard-headed and kept going from the top. From people I have spoken with, it seems the driver's side from the top and pass from the bottom is what worked best for them. It may be different for you.

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During my brief stint with the SuperMaxx system, I removed the wheel wells and installed the long tubes through there. They were both very easy to get in and situated. It made it easier to get to the collector bolts and gave you a straight shot in at the header bolts also.


I have a set of ASM's ordered. I am going to hack off the flange and go with a set of ball and socket collectors for a better seal. I am stealing BigTex's idea (thanks Richard) and stretching the header collector to 3" and going with that size all the way back with an x-pipe. Still haven't decided if I will be including cats in this set-up though. I am leaning towards no cats. I plan on constructing the new system so I can take it off and put my old one back on fairly easily for inspection.

Edited by slimsoftball (see edit history)
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Sounds familiar, Eric.  I would go with a high-flo cat like the ones Richard posted links to at rpm outlet, or R/T.  Just to keep it legal and all.  Since you may end up where I'm going. :cry:



You do have a point Ben. That is one reason I will make my new and stock systems easily changed out. Do the R/T cats have sensor bungs? (That sounded funny :nono: )


They only place I can find R/T cats are at Thunder Racing. The R/T website hasn't worked in quite some time. I always get a message saying the site doesn't exist. I am beginning to wonder if they still exist. :dunno:


I will have to check on that link Richard posted. I have been bugging alot lately for tips on my system and he has hooked me up big time. :thumbs:

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R/T site works for me here.  They do not have bungs, but are small enough to fit in between your stock bungs.  You can pick up new ones at any exhaust shop.  If you buy R/T, be sure to get the super stainless ones.



Still no dice on that website Ben. For some reason it won't open at home or at work :dunno:

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If you are using new 3" cats and making the front pipes 3", then just buy 2 more bungs and weld them in. Maybe $5 each. The stock pipes are 2.5" and using them would defeat the purpose of expanding the flange to 3".


Also, I suggest you move the cats to after the X pipe. That gives both cats equal pressure. If one were to fail and melt, exhaust would still have an outlet with the other side. Plus with extreme exhaust temps with the supercharger, moving the cats back a little will help keeping them from overheating.




Side note: I used some ultra leakproof aluminum 3-bolt flange gaskets on my truck. I thought they would keep a better seal than the others I have tried. They worked fine for a year, then the first day I drove my truck after the Radix install, I melted one.


The left gasket used to be shaped like the one on the right.



Edited by BigTex (see edit history)
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