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how did GearMUp have no front driveshaft?


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The way our transfer case works, it should work fine on the dyno. It has clutches that are engaged by friction. On the dyno, if you take off easy, the clutches will lock up and then you can dyno. On the street doing burnouts, you'll overheat viscous fluids that control pressure to the clutches. Having a dyno done and doing burnouts are two completely different things.

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yea i was fine on the dyno but i did it on the streets trying to do burnouts the dyno didnt hurt it

ah, that makes more sense. thanks.

 

The way our transfer case works, it should work fine on the dyno.  It has clutches that are engaged by friction.  On the dyno, if you take off easy, the clutches will lock up and then you can dyno.  On the street doing burnouts, you'll overheat viscous fluids that control pressure to the clutches.  Having a dyno done and doing burnouts are two completely different things.

 

that's good to know. glad I never tried that.

If you dyno with the front shaft removed will it show true HP or will it show half the normal HP?

 

full hp. my stock dyno was around 290rwhp and cam and other bol-ons was 330rwhp

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So say I took out my driveshaft and went out into the street and just gunned it once and it only revved up to about 3k and back down and that was enough to tell me that it wasnt going to work so I just backed back down the driveway and put the front ds back in. Would this have been enough to hurt it you think? It only went from idle to 3k and back down once and I put it back in.....?

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Won't it actually show higher HP because of mitigating the loss through the AWD?

yes and no, u are still loosing much of the AWD hp, but u are also not turning the things causing frictional losses up front, so it would be more of a loss than a 2wd truck, but not as much of a loss as if u where to AWD dyno. If people are afraid of toasting the T-case, they could buy a diff, and weld it shuyt, and change diffs to dyno or whatnot.

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