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I know this may be a repost but the only cam posts i've seen are cams that perform well with a Radix. I have a moderatly modified SS (i.e. intake, headers, shiftkit, dyno tune) and i'm looking to buy a cam for my next mod. What type/brand of cam has proven most effective on our trucks without a Radix, and whats the price range for having a cam installed?? I've been thinking about a good low range cam because our trucks have their greatest acceleration from 20 mph. Any info you guys could give me would me helpful.

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Hey Dadunn what kind of power and rpm range are you looking for? 

 

There is a nice post over on LS1Tech.com in the truck performance section that lists a bunch of cams, their characteristics, etc. for 4.8, 5.3 and 6.0 engines.  Worth looking at IMO.

 

I was looking at a cam for good low end and midrange bite. Somewhere between 1800-4800 rpm. Has anybody tried the Holley Lunati Camshaft/Pushrod buy?? The part number for the one i'm looking at is 84015LUN.

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I was looking at a cam for good low end and midrange bite.  Somewhere between 1800-4800 rpm.

 

I highly-highly-highly recommend the setup I'm running. A VHP (or Crane) 210/218 112 cam. You can get it at .531" or .551" lift. I'm running the smaller one, becase the .551 stick wasn't available at the time.

 

You don't need the rockers to get the cam to perform - but they make it all the better. You will need springs.

 

The cam is a little flat under 1,500. Right around 1,700, it wakes up pretty abruptly - the exhaust note changes and there is a lot of power available. By 2,000, things are very healty. From 2,000-6,000, the cam pulls very cleanly, and smoothly, with power available at ANY throttle position. You don't have to beat on the truck to get it going or to experience the power. That 'area under the curve' is really improved.

 

The flat area under 1,500 isn't very noticeable, and it's definitely not intrusive. My 60' times less headers, less Crane tuning, and less the rockers was 2.13 with 3/4 tank of gas and full-street weight (hitch, spare, tailgate all on-board). The stock converter was flashing to 2,100rpm. With the mods I added (listed above) I now get a turn or two out of the tires from a dead stop... so I'm really expecting sub 2.00 times on my stock converter.

 

If you want a quick and easy tuning solution, I also recommend the Crane tuner. I'm going to get some track results from the Crane tuner vs my own tuning through HPTuners April 1st. (I think of myself as a fairly proficient all-around tuner, but the Crane box sure humbled me with the truck).

 

I'm not sure what install will run you though... I do all my own work...

 

The cam itself is ~$400. Springs, anywhere from $150 to $300+ for the Crane duals (which I'll be moving to soon). You may need 7.4" pushrods... so that's another ~$110.

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Im looking for the same basic thing. Power in the low to mid rpm range. But i am going with a stall converter soon. The PI 10.5" Vigilante Multi-Disc

converter with around a 2600 rpm stall speed. Which cam would you reccomend for this?

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On a 6.0 with stock converter I would say go no bigger than the Comp 212/216. With a bigger stall I would think you could take intake duration to the low 220's on stock cubes. As always a good tune adjusting shift points will be necessary.

 

Even with an aftermarket TC, be careful not to overcam a 5500 lb. truck for the street. You'll want some low end grunt for o/d cruising up long grades even if you never tow.

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  • 2 weeks later...

On the LS1 in the F-body this was an expensive mod (1.8 ratio rockers + springs + hardened pushrods) for about a 7-10 HP gain. You might as well just go ahead and change the cam for more lift + more duration and gain as much as 20-40 HP using your stock rocker arms. You will still need better valvesprings and pushrods but gains will be more worth it IMHO.

 

There are cams on the market (Comp 206/212, LPE GT2-3, GM Z06, Vinci 210/218, Comp 212/218) that will produce off idle torque close to, at, or better than the stock cam and give you a good boost in power in the mid-to-upper RPM's with no real sacrifice of idle quality or driveability. That's the route I would take. :)

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