RacerJJ Posted March 23, 2005 Report Share Posted March 23, 2005 How difficult is it to install any of the popular drop kits (belltech, MG, etc.) yourself? If not, how much should the install run me? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSjohnson1422 Posted March 23, 2005 Report Share Posted March 23, 2005 I got a Ground Force kit priced at about 800 for everything, kit, install, everything. Chux TruX is the store. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSplaytoy Posted March 23, 2005 Report Share Posted March 23, 2005 The hangers in the rear are a bit of a b***h to get off, but you could do it yourself. Just get a ball joint seperator for the ball joints. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RacerJJ Posted March 23, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2005 The hangers in the rear are a bit of a b***h to get off, but you could do it yourself. Just get a ball joint seperator for the ball joints. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> That's for the kit with the spindles right (ball joint seperater)? If I go with the Belltech which uses torsion keys, then it should be much easier correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r8rs4lf Posted March 23, 2005 Report Share Posted March 23, 2005 Talk to Dylan about the place where I got mine done. He's in good with them and they know all about it since they already did mine. I paid next to nothing for the install. Paying someone to do the install IMHO is well worth it because it's very difficult to remove the stock shackle rivets from what I saw. The room under there is very limited and having a lift makes it alot easier. Late- Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RacerJJ Posted March 23, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2005 Talk to Dylan about the place where I got mine done. He's in good with them and they know all about it since they already did mine. I paid next to nothing for the install. Paying someone to do the install IMHO is well worth it because it's very difficult to remove the stock shackle rivets from what I saw. The room under there is very limited and having a lift makes it alot easier. Late- Alex <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonmalibuss Posted March 23, 2005 Report Share Posted March 23, 2005 The hangers in the rear are a bit of a b***h to get off, but you could do it yourself. Just get a ball joint seperator for the ball joints. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I wouldn't use a ball joint seperator just wack the spindle with a 5lb. sledge the ball joint seperators usually tear up the boot which then lets in water dirt etc.. you get the idea! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RacerJJ Posted March 23, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2005 I'm having a place in Anaheim do it tomorrow for $350 installed. They're doing a 2/2 drop with torsion keys and shackles. Good deal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AUTOGUY Posted March 23, 2005 Report Share Posted March 23, 2005 (edited) I paid $250.00 to have the McGaughy's kit installed with shackles,hangers and spindles. That included a re-alignment. $350.00 sounds a little high for just shackles and keys. Edited March 23, 2005 by AUTOGUY (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony-CA Posted April 16, 2005 Report Share Posted April 16, 2005 I just installed the McGaughy 2/4 kit on my truck last night. The offset spindles were fairly easy to replace. I thought the most time consuming part was removing the 6 rivets holding the rear hangers on, 12 total for both sides. The fuel tank straps were removed allowing the tank to move just enough to take off the stock hanger/leafspring bolt on the left side. It also eased the installation of the new hanger and associated 4 bolts/nuts. The tow hitch platform came down to remove the lower shackle bolt. I set up the leaf spring on the 2 inch drop at the hanger and set up the shackle at the one inch drop. The rear bump stops were taken off the bracket and mounted directly on the frame, 2 nubs were cut off. After it was all done I wasnt satisfied with how the front end sat higher. I turned down the torsion bolts 3 full turns on each side. That made the front end sit even with the rear. Camber and caster were within specs. A minor toe adjustment was all that was needed. The total time for all of this was approximately 5 hours. I must mention this was done on a twin post rack with air tools and a grinding wheel(for the rivets). The only concern I have is with the front axles. They appear to be taxed out at ride height and even though they dont grind during turns they do seem to bind up just a bit when the wheels are cranked all the way in either direction. Overall, if I had to do it all over again Id go this same route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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