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Lowering kits


RacerJJ

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The hangers in the rear are a bit of a b***h to get off, but you could do it yourself. Just get a ball joint seperator for the ball joints.

That's for the kit with the spindles right (ball joint seperater)? If I go with the Belltech which uses torsion keys, then it should be much easier correct?

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Talk to Dylan about the place where I got mine done. He's in good with them and they know all about it since they already did mine. I paid next to nothing for the install. Paying someone to do the install IMHO is well worth it because it's very difficult to remove the stock shackle rivets from what I saw. The room under there is very limited and having a lift makes it alot easier.

 

Late- Alex

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Talk to Dylan about the place where I got mine done. He's in good with them and they know all about it since they already did mine. I paid next to nothing for the install. Paying someone to do the install IMHO is well worth it because it's very difficult to remove the stock shackle rivets from what I saw. The room under there is very limited and having a lift makes it alot easier.

 

Late-  Alex

Thanks! :thumbs:

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The hangers in the rear are a bit of a b***h to get off, but you could do it yourself. Just get a ball joint seperator for the ball joints.

I wouldn't use a ball joint seperator just wack the spindle with a 5lb. sledge the ball joint seperators usually tear up the boot which then lets in water dirt etc.. you get the idea!

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  • 4 weeks later...

I just installed the McGaughy 2/4 kit on my truck last night. The offset spindles were fairly easy to replace. I thought the most time consuming part was removing the 6 rivets holding the rear hangers on, 12 total for both sides. The fuel tank straps were removed allowing the tank to move just enough to take off the stock hanger/leafspring bolt on the left side. It also eased the installation of the new hanger and associated 4 bolts/nuts. The tow hitch platform came down to remove the lower shackle bolt. I set up the leaf spring on the 2 inch drop at the hanger and set up the shackle at the one inch drop. The rear bump stops were taken off the bracket and mounted directly on the frame, 2 nubs were cut off. After it was all done I wasnt satisfied with how the front end sat higher. I turned down the torsion bolts 3 full turns on each side. That made the front end sit even with the rear. Camber and caster were within specs. A minor toe adjustment was all that was needed. The total time for all of this was approximately 5 hours. I must mention this was done on a twin post rack with air tools and a grinding wheel(for the rivets). The only concern I have is with the front axles. They appear to be taxed out at ride height and even though they dont grind during turns they do seem to bind up just a bit when the wheels are cranked all the way in either direction. Overall, if I had to do it all over again Id go this same route.

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