bgdsub72 Posted June 24, 2005 Report Share Posted June 24, 2005 My friend has two 10" Dual voice coil Fosgates and a 500w JL amp in his 04 SS with the factory Bose stereo. It sounds really good. I am going to do two 10 JL W3 v2s with a 500w JL amp and I am keeping all of the bose equipment in my truck. I will let you know how it sounds, I have everything except for the subs right now... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CraigW Posted June 25, 2005 Report Share Posted June 25, 2005 Subs and amp attached to Bose system is does not sound bad it has good sound quality. It just that the componets in a high end audio system dont compare they are much higher quality. You can put an aftermarket system in that sound worse than the bose I've seen and heard them. Here is my subs and amplifier rack its two JL Audio 12w1 and and Audiobahn A8000t mono sub amp in a custom box/amp rack I finished about a month ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fox_forma Posted June 25, 2005 Report Share Posted June 25, 2005 hey craig, how do you like it with the subs facing up? Do you keep your seat up when no one is back there for it to bounce off the windows and such? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r8rs4lf Posted June 26, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2005 Well, I installed everything yesterday after work and ran into problems. I ran the amp power wire and installed the PAC piece according to this post: Here are some detailed instructions for installing an aftermarket amp/sub to a SS. 1. Take off back of center console. First take out the center console tray and lid. This will expose 2 screws at the back of the console (toward the rear), and then take out the 4 screws in the cup holder in back. 2. Make this easy, get a good converter. I purchased a PAC brand converter made especially for adding a amp to a Bose system for our trucks. The part number is: AOEM-GM24. Here is a link where I got mine: PAC AOEM-GM24 (Bose amp is in the background - this pic was taken from the back of truck) 3. Plug in the PAC. It is that simple. The only other thing that you are going to have to do is get a 3M crimp connector and splice in the remote wire (as per the instruction in the PAC package) (it is the pink wire on the harness). 4. Run the wires (remote wire and RCA wires) back to your amp. I have a JL Audio Stealthbox under the drivers side rear seat, so my amp is under the passenger side rear seat. 5. Run your power and ground cable. I ran my ground cable to a stud under the back seat. For the power, I ran my wire up through a grommet in the drivers side floorboard, then back through the door threshold and on to the amp behind the back seat. 6. Hook up the wires. What can I say, just plug everything in, adjust the levels, and enjoy the new seat massagers. Let me know if you need any more pics or advice! Rob <{POST_SNAPBACK}> BTW, thanks IdriveGTP for that post. It was very helpfull!!! The problem occured when we went to fire everything up. We got no power to the amp and the processor. I installed that PAC piece exactly where IdriveGTP did in his post. After a little trouble shooting, jumping wires and such, we got power to everything because we could hear the subs moving everytime we changed some settings on the processor, but it just wasn't getting a signal from the radio. We ended up coming to the conclusion that PAC piece was bad or we blew it up because of where we installed it. We even went as far as hooking up my subs to my partners amp in his 96' Impala SS which runs 3 Fosgate 12's and it sounded very good! According to the instruction that came with the PAC piece, it was to be installed behind the radio and it said that if it was installed after the Bose amp, it may get damaged. Does it really matter where that thing is installed??? I just can't see how plugging it in after the stock amp would have damaged it, plus other people have done it without problems. Oh well, it's all in now and all I have to do is button everything up and wait till Monday for my partner to replace that PAC piece for me. It sounded damn good hooked up to that monster amp of my friends. Hopefully it will sound half as good as that with my scrawny little Punch 200. Can anyone shed some light on this??? Anyother things I might have done wrong??? Any help would be appreciated! Late- Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fox_forma Posted June 26, 2005 Report Share Posted June 26, 2005 I did basically the same thing, I hooked everything up and had no power, i re-ran the power and grounds and everything and nothing. It endd up being the remote wire. I spliced into the wrong wire. Make sure you have it spliced into the pink wire that is part of the actual gm harness, i hooked into the wrong pink wire like an idiot. When it wasnt hooked up right, i could here a little coming through the subs, i guess it was just the current going through the RCA's. My PAC said to hook into the back where the bose sub was and said nothing about being behind the dash, i dont see any problems with it back there, it clips right in like it should. Just make sure about that remote wire, i overlooked it for about 3hrs untill i figured it out. Good Luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r8rs4lf Posted June 26, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2005 So your saying I need to splice the remote wire from the amp to the pink wire in the original factory harness??? I believe there is a blue/white wire coming directly from the PAC unit that is the remote right? I don't splice the remote wire from the amp to that blue/white wire because that is what I did?? Need details............... Late- Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fox_forma Posted June 26, 2005 Report Share Posted June 26, 2005 2. Make this easy, get a good converter. I purchased a PAC brand converter made especially for adding a amp to a Bose system for our trucks. The part number is: AOEM-GM24. Here is a link where I got mine: PAC AOEM-GM24 So your saying I need to splice the remote wire from the amp to the pink wire in the original factory harness??? I believe there is a blue/white wire coming directly from the PAC unit that is the remote right? I don't splice the remote wire from the amp to that blue/white wire because that is what I did?? Need details............... Late- Alex <{POST_SNAPBACK}> hope i posted this right, in the pic with the pac adapter there is a splicer shown with the blue wire coming from the pac adapter which splices into the pink wire on the GM harness, from that there is another remote wire coming off the PAC adapter which you have to connect to the amp. The key is the pink remote wire that you have to splice into one of the PACs which should be labeled for you, then there is the wire from the PAC that goes to the amp. I hope you can understand that, if not I will try to get pics for you up close so it makes sense. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r8rs4lf Posted June 26, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2005 I actually don't have that exact same PAC adapter. I don't have the exact number of my piece because my partner has it, but the last part of the PAC piece is the same, GM24. The difference between mine and the one posted is mine only has one set of RCA's instead of two like in the picture. In that picture, that looks like a connector, not a crimp. I guess it's a crimp piece connecting that blue and pink wire right??? This pink wire from the GM harness, is it connected to anything straight from the factory? I haven't looked in there since yesterday, it's all buttoned up now. From what I saw yesterday, it's all pretty much factory connectors where the bose amp is and I didn't see this pink wire just hanging anywhere. Can you be more specific about where this pink wire is? I remember my PAC piece only having the factory connectors to install it inline and three seperate wires. One was for the remote, the other two were optional if I wanted to connect them to control the fade a certain way. I don't remember any other wires from the piece. I guess it would be better if I had the piece in front of me. I called my partner this morning and he is going to bring it back and we will try to install it again per your instructions. He said he was looking at the instructions this morning and saw something that might have been hooked up wrong. I'm just a little stumped on this pink wire. Is it part of the GM harness or is it seperate? Pics would be great! Late- Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fox_forma Posted June 26, 2005 Report Share Posted June 26, 2005 It is part of the GM harness that the PAC clips into. I went to radio shack and got the crip connecter and did it that way. You may have to spread a few wires apart to see it mixed in with all the others. You use the crip connecter on it so it stays in tact but this way you can run another wire off of it to the PAC. If you look at that first pic you can see a harness of wires that are taped up running down to the factory bose, the pink wire is in there somewhere, you will prob have to pull some of the tape off to get it out enough to crimp into it. It sounds like you did the same thing i did when i first put it together because you would know exactly what i was talking about if you hooked into the pink wire on the gm harness. Did you splice into the pink wire on the PAC adapters harness by chance? Thats what i did originally like a retard and didnt think twice about it. Hope you get it sorted out, good luck give me a few and i will try to get pics, its like 96 degrees here and the humidity is horrible so its really really hot outside Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fox_forma Posted June 26, 2005 Report Share Posted June 26, 2005 here is two pics of it hooked in.... you can see which pink wire i am referring if you look at the harness, hope this gives you an idea, it is coming off of the clip that hooks into the PAC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r8rs4lf Posted June 26, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2005 I don't recall two seperate remote wires coming from the PAC piece, only a blue/white one marked remote and two other ones for the fade. I might have to get the one you guys have. I don't have the PAC piece with me, but it will be here later on and I'll try to hook it up that way. This is what I figure............... IF my PAC piece only has one remote wire, I can splice that and the remote wire from the amp together along with the pink factory wire right? Many thanks fox_forma! I know it was a PITA to take it all apart. I owe you a . This the one I have. PAC C2A-GM24 Late- Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fox_forma Posted June 26, 2005 Report Share Posted June 26, 2005 Theres not exactly two different remotes, its the same remote wire but it splits through the one clip piece but its on the same circuit I guess you would say. If you look at that page where your PAC adapter is from, there should be a blue wire between the the the PAC box and the first harness clip which crimps into the pink then from the 2nd harness to the last one I think there should be another remote wire coming out that is just free which you would connect a longer wire to so you can run it to the amp. If not then as long as you have the one remote spliced into the pink wire and somehow connected to the amp it should work i would think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r8rs4lf Posted June 26, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2005 Ya, I talked to my partner and he told me there is only one remote wire, ground, and two other ones for the fade. I'm gonna try to hook it up like that with the factory pink wire spliced with the remote wire of the PAC piece and the remote wire from the amp and see what happens. It sounds logical and seems like it should work because both the PAC piece and the amp would be getting signals from the pink wire, just hooked up a different way. Unless the signal from the pink wire hooked up to the remote wire on one side of the PAC OEM2-GM24 goes through some type of circuit internally to the other remote wire on the other side, then it wouldn't work. Man, it just seems like I should just get the right piece for the application. If it doesn't work, then I will. Again, thanks man!!!! On a side note, according to PAC's website: Note: 2004 Hummer H2 and 2005 Envoy and Trailblazer, this interface will not work! Use the AOEM-GM24 to add a 4 channel amplifier. That is in reference to the PAC C2A-GM24 which I have. Late- Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fox_forma Posted June 26, 2005 Report Share Posted June 26, 2005 good luck man, why didnt you just get the AOEM-GM24 to begin with? Did you just get mixed up when purchasing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r8rs4lf Posted June 26, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2005 Actually my partner got all of the installation stuff for me including the Fosgate subs. Basically, I left it all up to him. Lesson learned................................ Late- Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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