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People who added subs to bose system


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Just a heads up for all you guys wanting to add amps to your factory radio,

  Just so you know, the PAC piece goes BEHIND the radio, and before the BOSE amp.  this way you will not have the BOSE specific EQ and that problem with the subs turning down as the volume goes up.  any questions let me know

 

It is interesting that you brought this up as I noticed this a month ago that the BOSE system was fighting me sound wise but never posted as everyone here seems to be happy with their add-on subs. :dunno: So I just figured nobody would believe me if I posted that mine sounded like crap and would be told that I had something hooked up wrong bla bla bla. I 'm glad to hear you are on the same wavelength as I am with this BOSE equalization problem stealing the bass response.

 

 

So does the PAC just plug in the radio output harness list like it does in the console area? Or do you need to splice into the wiring? Does your sub have a nice low end 20-60 hz signal going to it now?

 

 

I have not removed the radio yet but I do have a Pac installed in the rear console and I agree the bass sounds like shit compared to my Avalanche I had the same gear in a month ago.

 

I talked to the local JL dealer and they agreeed that the Bose system limits the bass output to something like 100 hz and higher or something aweful like that. Makes the sub sound like a giant midbase now on the same songs I have played before....... the low end 20-60 hz frequencies are totally lost. :banghead: I would agree with this as when I adjust my low-pass crossover to settings between 20 and 80 hz it has no effect on the sub output like it did in my AV so I would have to agree with the stereo shop guys.

 

I tried all outputs of the PAC looking for a low end frequency sub signal and it is very interesting how each output is affected differently as you adjust the fader, the L & R balance, or my crossover when I was testing the system. Ever noticed that before?

 

I was thinking about scrapping the PAC and going to a line output converter behind the radio in an attempt to gain back the low-end frequency response I lost with this damn Bose system. But if the PAC will just plug right in to the radio harness then maybe I will just try that first instead. But the thing that confuses me is the shop guys said that the radio output is a digital signal to the console amp and not an analog signal................ so if this is true then how can the PAC send a signal to the amp (like you have it) when the PAC is not a digital to analog converter?

 

Sounds like the shop guys were wrong on this one and the radio is sending an analog signal to the console amp thus allowing your PAC to interface with it and send a RCA level analog signal to your sub amp............... does that sound right??

 

So is the radio output truly a flat non-equalized signal and the sound is BOSE equalized inside of after the console amplifier? If so then that means that all speaker signals (tweaters, door speakers, etc.) must pass from the radio and into the amp before going to the speakers themselves. Does that make sense?

 

Thanks for your input on this......... Greg

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Just a heads up for all you guys wanting to add amps to your factory radio,

  Just so you know, the PAC piece goes BEHIND the radio, and before the BOSE amp.  this way you will not have the BOSE specific EQ and that problem with the subs turning down as the volume goes up.  any questions let me know

 

It is interesting that you brought this up as I noticed this a month ago that the BOSE system was fighting me sound wise but never posted as everyone here seems to be happy with their add-on subs. :dunno: So I just figured nobody would believe me if I posted that mine sounded like crap and would be told that I had something hooked up wrong bla bla bla. I 'm glad to hear you are on the same wavelength as I am with this BOSE equalization problem stealing the bass response.

 

 

So does the PAC just plug in the radio output harness list like it does in the console area? Or do you need to splice into the wiring? Does your sub have a nice low end 20-60 hz signal going to it now?

 

 

I have not removed the radio yet but I do have a Pac installed in the rear console and I agree the bass sounds like shit compared to my Avalanche I had the same gear in a month ago.

 

I talked to the local JL dealer and they agreeed that the Bose system limits the bass output to something like 100 hz and higher or something aweful like that. Makes the sub sound like a giant midbase now on the same songs I have played before....... the low end 20-60 hz frequencies are totally lost. :banghead: I would agree with this as when I adjust my low-pass crossover to settings between 20 and 80 hz it has no effect on the sub output like it did in my AV so I would have to agree with the stereo shop guys.

 

I tried all outputs of the PAC looking for a low end frequency sub signal and it is very interesting how each output is affected differently as you adjust the fader, the L & R balance, or my crossover when I was testing the system. Ever noticed that before?

 

I was thinking about scrapping the PAC and going to a line output converter behind the radio in an attempt to gain back the low-end frequency response I lost with this damn Bose system. But if the PAC will just plug right in to the radio harness then maybe I will just try that first instead. But the thing that confuses me is the shop guys said that the radio output is a digital signal to the console amp and not an analog signal................ so if this is true then how can the PAC send a signal to the amp (like you have it) when the PAC is not a digital to analog converter?

 

Sounds like the shop guys were wrong on this one and the radio is sending an analog signal to the console amp thus allowing your PAC to interface with it and send a RCA level analog signal to your sub amp............... does that sound right??

 

 

 

Thanks for your input on this......... Greg

 

This could be a long answer but here goes. First answer, YES the PAC piece will plug right in behind the factory radio! It will give you the Bass that we all desire, it is FLAT from 20Hz all the ay to 20000Hz! As far as the shop guys answer, they are kinda right, you see there are 2 different types of Bose systems in GM trucks, "premium" and "non-premium" we have the later of them 2. the way to tell which you have is to turn the volume knob FAST and see if there is a delay in the volume, if there is you have premium. again we do NOT! so that is why there is speaker signals behind the radio. they are NOT the normal Gm colors back thereas they are behind the amps in the center console. As far as noticing differences in the balance fader thing that you mention, yes I have noticed it and it sucks to try to correct.

 

So is the radio output truly a flat non-equalized signal and the sound is BOSE equalized inside of after the console amplifier? If so then that means that all speaker signals (tweaters, door speakers, etc.) must pass from the radio and into the amp before going to the speakers themselves. Does that make sense?

 

You are DEAD on on the above statement. I have done TONS of research on these systems and these are the answers I have. question away if you need to as I will answer what I can.

 

I can tell you this, I have this same interface in my truck with all new MTX gear and I just took 1st place and Best of show at a triple piont event for USACi with this truck. Again let me know if you have any other questions, I hope I answered all of them

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is there a trick to hooking it up behind the head unit instead of the center console? How do you get back there? Also is the remote wire still the same color as the one you would splice into near the bose amp in the center console? I may switch this around if there is a major difference.

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is there a trick to hooking it up behind the head unit instead of the center console?  How do you get back there?  Also is the remote wire still the same color as the one you would splice into near the bose amp in the center console?  I may switch this around if there is a major difference.

 

 

the dash bezeel pulls right off no tools needed and to get the radio out you will need a 7mm socket or nut driver. that is all. as for the pink wire. it is still there. give it a try and let all of us know the difference. I never did try mine behind the console but I can see where all of these problems would come about by doing it there. I spent a ton of time on the phone with PAC tech support and with a few other industry experts to get this right the first time.

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is there a trick to hooking it up behind the head unit instead of the center console?  How do you get back there?  Also is the remote wire still the same color as the one you would splice into near the bose amp in the center console?  I may switch this around if there is a major difference.

 

 

Well I decided to tear my truck appart again to remove the PAC from the conscole amplifier to behind the Radio and I will say the sub woofer sound is better. :thumbs:

 

I'm not completely sure it was worth tearing appart both the conscole and the dash to do this (since I had the PAC/ amp/ and sub already installed) but on a new install I would definately hook the PAC directly to the radio for best sound.

 

The sub sound difference is small but noticable between the two connection methods IMO. I swapped the PAC from the radio to the conscole amp and back abuot 3 times and played with my low pass crossover settings before deciding the radio connection was the way to go for me. I wouldn't say there is a complete 20-20,000 Hz output signal from behind the radio but more like a 50 hz + signal which is much better than the approx. 100Hz frequency signal I had from the PAC when it was hooked to the factory console subwoofer amp before.

 

The bass is now cleaner and deeper sounding with out the muddy low end vocals being played through it like before.

 

I wanted to try this immediately after installing my amp/ sub as I was dissapointed in it's performance, but the local JL dealer discouraged me from trying it. Thanks fast4popper for giving me the motivation to try it as the sound has improved. :cheers:

 

Oh............. and no.......... there are no tricks to hooking it up behind the head unit instead of the center console, it just plugs right in as fast4popper previously stated.

 

Greg :D

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The remote wire for the amp still needs to be ran up to the PAC piece behind the radio right?

 

Here is a very simple question for you. Knowing all that you went through to change it up, was it worth it?

 

gain VS. trouble=??????

 

I have mine hooked up in the console and if the gain is so small, it wouldn't be worth it to me.

 

Late- Alex

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The remote wire for the amp still needs to be ran up to the PAC piece behind the radio right?

 

Here is a very simple question for you. Knowing all that you went through to change it up, was it worth it?

 

gain VS. trouble=??????

 

I have mine hooked up in the console and if the gain is so small, it wouldn't be worth it to me.

 

Late-  Alex

 

 

Do it! that is all there is to say. If you bring it to me :) I will do it for you. Is it worth it you ask? YES! YES! and YES! as stated above, the factory setup is HIGH passed and you are losing some of you bass frequencies! let us know what you think when you get this done.

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My partner has a bug and is running only one ten, the exact same ten as me with some POS Sony amp and it sounds louder than my two tens being pushed by my Punch 200. I just heard it yesterday. It got me to thinking that maybe I do need to change where the adapter is located. I might just do it today.

 

Where do I hook up the remote wire for the amp when I move the adapter to the front? I believe it's currently spliced into a pink wire in the main harness right?

 

Late- Alex

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Where do I hook up the remote wire for the amp when I move the adapter to the front? I believe it's currently spliced into a pink wire in the main harness right?

 

 

 

Anyone????

 

Late- Alex

 

 

leave it where it is. that will work fine, or there is a pink up behind the radio as well, but there is no reason to move it.

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I just got done moving the PAC adapter directly behind the radio and man, what a difference it made! For all of you who have it installed in the console, relocate it to behind the radio. Thanks to whoever was the one who figured this out! :thumbs:

 

Just a quick note, I did have to run the RCA's and the remote wire up to the head unit. There is no way to keep the remote wire hooked up in the console like before because the wire has to actually be ran through the adapter.

 

Late- Alex

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did you take pics of doing it?  How long did it take you also?

 

 

No pics, sorry! :cry:

 

It took me a while because I had to run the RCA's along with the remote wire up to the head unit. Alot of removing pieces from the dash and console to hide the wires. Then, I wasn't getting anything to my subs so I was troubleshooting for a while. I got so frustrated and I started to button things up and when I was finished, I decided to change out the fuse in the distribution block and sure enough, BASS! The hardest part was running the RCA's and the remote wire. As for the remote wire from the adapter, just tap into the pink wire in the main harness attached to the factory radio plug. Then splice your amp remote wire to the remote wire on the other side of the adapter. It's not hard, it's just a matter of relocating it.

 

It did make a BIG difference though! :thumbs:

 

Late- Alex

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did you take pics of doing it?  How long did it take you also?

 

 

No pics, sorry! :cry:

 

It took me a while because I had to run the RCA's along with the remote wire up to the head unit. Alot of removing pieces from the dash and console to hide the wires. Then, I wasn't getting anything to my subs so I was troubleshooting for a while. I got so frustrated and I started to button things up and when I was finished, I decided to change out the fuse in the distribution block and sure enough, BASS! The hardest part was running the RCA's and the remote wire. As for the remote wire from the adapter, just tap into the pink wire in the main harness attached to the factory radio plug. Then splice your amp remote wire to the remote wire on the other side of the adapter. It's not hard, it's just a matter of relocating it.

 

It did make a BIG difference though! :thumbs:

 

Late- Alex

 

 

Glad you are happy with it! and Glad I could help. I did a TON of research on this before I did my truck! I am totally happy with the factory head unit in my system, hopefully soon I will have pics up if I can ever figure out how to get them to PDB

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