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Couple of things -- first it could be false knock.  These trucks ALL will read knock with factory settings on the tranny when it kicks down.

 

Start from idle and give it 50-60% throttle and test for KR.  If you see none, try again at 60-70, etc. etc, until you are trying at WOT from idle.  If you see no KR during any of these runs, it may just be the standard kick-down knock (which is harmless, but will make your truck perform like crap).

 

If you do see KR during any of these runs, STOP and get some high octane gas (104) and try the same run again.  If you still see KR, reload the magnusson tune until you can get it straightened out imo.

 

As Krambo and Ben have stated, it may be tip-in knock, or burst knock as well, but neither of these (or the kick down problem from the tranny settings) generally produce such high numbers.  7.9 KR is an "Oh shit" moment with FI.

 

Can you monitor your narrow band o2s?  If you are seeing 7.9KR and anything less than .880mv the tune is screwy and needs to be fixed before you go to boost again.

 

It mainly only does it when i give full throttle. And the truck performs like crap. If i let off a little it will pick back up and then when i get back on it it bogs down again and reads high kr. I only have an interceptor scan gauge at the moment so i can only moniter whats on that.

 

Have you scanned to see if you have any misfires along with this KR?  I am new to the LQ9, but I ran an L67 with a manudon M90 on it for years.  If you have that much KR that isn't false from the tranny issues mentioned and misfires present on certain cylinders, check your plugs, then hope and pray it isn't what happened to me on the L67...cracked piston.  At first I noticed it only when kicking it down on the freeway, then starting getting KR at WOT off the line, thought it was false too.  I was getting 8+ deg of KR.  Then not much longer, BOOM...popped the #3 piston.  Happens alot on the L67 with boost (I was running about 12psi).  Not trying to scare you and could be totally off, but check for misfires nonetheless.

 

i really really hope you are wrong. Id be f'ed if i blew a piston.

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It mainly only does it when i give full throttle.  And the truck performs like crap.  If i let off a little it will pick back up and then when i get back on it it bogs down again and reads high kr.  I only have an interceptor scan gauge at the moment so i can only moniter whats on that.

Full throttle yes, but whether it comes from a dead stop to WOT or cruise to WOT will need to be known to even begin to understand what you're going through - so until you figure that out......

 

Once you figure that out, go with the high octane and see if it's false or not.

 

If you have the same interceptor gauge many of us on here have, you can monitor O2s. You just have to change what you're viewing - the directions will tell you how to change it (about 25 choices). You'll need to either look at B1S1 or B2S1.

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It mainly only does it when i give full throttle.  And the truck performs like crap.   If i let off a little it will pick back up and then when i get back on it it bogs down again and reads high kr.  I only have an interceptor scan gauge at the moment so i can only moniter whats on that.

Full throttle yes, but whether it comes from a dead stop to WOT or cruise to WOT will need to be known to even begin to understand what you're going through - so until you figure that out......

 

Once you figure that out, go with the high octane and see if it's false or not.

 

If you have the same interceptor gauge many of us on here have, you can monitor O2s. You just have to change what you're viewing - the directions will tell you how to change it (about 25 choices). You'll need to either look at B1S1 or B2S1.

 

I am getting the high KR whenever i am at WOT. Whether it be from a dead start or a rolling start or crusing. I can moniter this stuff but i dont know what it should say and do i moniter it while cruising or at WOT? Some things are so hard to tell...like my short trim and my 02 voltage go up and down so much its hard to tell. I dunno what to do i just really hope its not a freakin cracked piston.

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It mainly only does it when i give full throttle.  And the truck performs like crap.   If i let off a little it will pick back up and then when i get back on it it bogs down again and reads high kr.  I only have an interceptor scan gauge at the moment so i can only moniter whats on that.

Full throttle yes, but whether it comes from a dead stop to WOT or cruise to WOT will need to be known to even begin to understand what you're going through - so until you figure that out......

 

Once you figure that out, go with the high octane and see if it's false or not.

 

If you have the same interceptor gauge many of us on here have, you can monitor O2s. You just have to change what you're viewing - the directions will tell you how to change it (about 25 choices). You'll need to either look at B1S1 or B2S1.

 

I am getting the high KR whenever i am at WOT. Whether it be from a dead start or a rolling start or crusing. I can moniter this stuff but i dont know what it should say and do i moniter it while cruising or at WOT? Some things are so hard to tell...like my short trim and my 02 voltage go up and down so much its hard to tell. I dunno what to do i just really hope its not a freakin cracked piston.

 

Your O2 should be positive, above 880mv anytime you're above 40% throttle or so.

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Just one more thing...did you look at your Intake Air Temps via the Scan Gauge? If for some reason your intake temps shoot up real high (like 200 :uhoh: ) that may be a cause.

 

BTW, your scan gauge will record for you so you don't have to watch the numbers bounce. Then just play them back. When I use the scan gauge, I usually log RPMs and another parameter (O2s, IAT's, KR etc.). The gauge is just a neat tool. Real logging software is night and day difference.

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It mainly only does it when i give full throttle.  And the truck performs like crap.   If i let off a little it will pick back up and then when i get back on it it bogs down again and reads high kr.  I only have an interceptor scan gauge at the moment so i can only moniter whats on that.

Full throttle yes, but whether it comes from a dead stop to WOT or cruise to WOT will need to be known to even begin to understand what you're going through - so until you figure that out......

 

Once you figure that out, go with the high octane and see if it's false or not.

 

If you have the same interceptor gauge many of us on here have, you can monitor O2s. You just have to change what you're viewing - the directions will tell you how to change it (about 25 choices). You'll need to either look at B1S1 or B2S1.

 

I am getting the high KR whenever i am at WOT. Whether it be from a dead start or a rolling start or crusing. I can moniter this stuff but i dont know what it should say and do i moniter it while cruising or at WOT? Some things are so hard to tell...like my short trim and my 02 voltage go up and down so much its hard to tell. I dunno what to do i just really hope its not a freakin cracked piston.

Don't waste your time monitoring strims, not for what you're doing. I would set it up to record. I have never needed that, but assuming you can log multiple items at the same time, I'd do rpms, KR, ltrims, and O2v at a minimum. IATs would be nice to know. Not sure how many you can do at once. For the O2s remember to record just the S1s.

 

Have you tried running most of your gas out and getting a few gallons of 100 octane or higher? If you don't have the available, you can also get xylene from Lowe's and mix it in. Others on here will have to tell you what % to get you to 100.

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Well i dunno if this will help you guys figure anything out but i keep pulling the same code.

 

P0332 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Low Input (Bank 2)

You need to check and make sure you did not get the wires to the knock sensors pinched under the Radix.

 

Been there.

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Bad circuitry.  High KR will not give you this fault.  The fault lies in the circuit itself.

 

 

:withstupid:

 

Pull the plug on the knock sensors and reconnect. Maybe some compressed air to blow out any moisture in the connection. Make sure they are plugged in TIGHT as well. Follow the wires all the way to the bottom of the blower and make sure they are not pinched and are not frayed/ kinked / bent anywhere.

 

Hate to say this but if the wires look good, it may be in good intrest to pull off the blower head unit and inspect the the sensors themselves under the lifter valley. :sigh: There may be a way to check the current with a volt meter but I do not know where to start on that one nor what to look for. :dunno:

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I shouldnt have to pull the blower...i can remember we made sure that those two plugs where seated correctly. Dont you remember Kevin?? BTW on a side note, you gonna go to NYC this weekend Kevin?

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just figured i'd give you all an update. I pulled the blower last night. First i checked the knock sensor wire for crimpage and i noticed none so i started to panic till i realized while i was holding the wire in my hand the back plug was out of its hole and just hanging there. It wasnt ever plugged in right. So it was just sitting in the hole unplugged. I have no idea how the hell that happend but thank God it was only that. So now she is up and running great and hopefully ill be able to turn some good times at the track on Friday. Thanks for your help everyone.

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