EmergencyVP1 Posted June 4, 2006 Report Share Posted June 4, 2006 Im wanting to install a Alpine 9855 H/U in the SS. I purchased a Pac SWI-ALP for the steering wheel controls. I also have a Metra adaptor out of my '04 Chevy, and am hoping that I can use that for my power/ground instead of running new wire. I will be running 3 sets of RCA's to 2 amps, then new speaker wire from there. I want to bypass the stock amp and sub, but run the Bose speakers off the amps I put in there... Will this work ?? Also I have a Soundstream 4 channel amp and a Alpine V-12 4 channel. I will be using (2) Jl 10W3V2's in a Thunderform enclosure. How do I bridge the amp for more power, then run both Jl's from there??? Sorry, it's been a few years since I've done the stereo gig...Thanks, Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r8rs4lf Posted June 5, 2006 Report Share Posted June 5, 2006 Im wanting to install a Alpine 9855 H/U in the SS. I purchased a Pac SWI-ALP for the steering wheel controls. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I have that PAC piece and there are certain things that I cannot do with my IVA-D310. I cannot change tracks on a CD or my iPod. I've been told the "older" PAC piece with the infared eye does it all. I will be running 3 sets of RCA's to 2 amps, then new speaker wire from there. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> If your running that Alpine amp with an Alpine HU I don't think you need to run an RCA to it. The Ai-Net cable takes care of that for you. I know with my Alpine theater amp (MRA-D550), I didn't run any rca's at all since that amp has a place for me to run my sub amp off of it as well. I didn't run any new wire for the interior speakers, really no need to IMHO. All you have to do is tap into the excisting wire behind the HU and run them to your amps. Plus if you ever decide to put it back to stock everything is still there. Search for my username, I made a post about the wire colors. I want to bypass the stock amp and sub, but run the Bose speakers off the amps I put in there... Will this work ?? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Yes it will work. That is exactly how mine is set up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmergencyVP1 Posted June 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2006 Im wanting to install a Alpine 9855 H/U in the SS. I purchased a Pac SWI-ALP for the steering wheel controls. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I have that PAC piece and there are certain things that I cannot do with my IVA-D310. I cannot change tracks on a CD or my iPod. I've been told the "older" PAC piece with the infared eye does it all. I will be running 3 sets of RCA's to 2 amps, then new speaker wire from there. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> If your running that Alpine amp with an Alpine HU I don't think you need to run an RCA to it. The Ai-Net cable takes care of that for you. I know with my Alpine theater amp (MRA-D550), I didn't run any rca's at all since that amp has a place for me to run my sub amp off of it as well. I didn't run any new wire for the interior speakers, really no need to IMHO. All you have to do is tap into the excisting wire behind the HU and run them to your amps. Plus if you ever decide to put it back to stock everything is still there. Search for my username, I made a post about the wire colors. I want to bypass the stock amp and sub, but run the Bose speakers off the amps I put in there... Will this work ?? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Yes it will work. That is exactly how mine is set up. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I wish I could use the AI-NET feature, but there were only 3 or 4 amps that could use this, and I don't have one. This Alpine amp is 5 years old. So im back to RCA's which does not bother me. My plan is to just unplug all the existing wiring and tuck back in the panels, so if I ever sell it, I just remove my stuff and put the old stockers back in, plug in and be done with it.... Thanks for all the info though, I appreciate it !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmergencyVP1 Posted June 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2006 I started the installation last night. Took all of the panels off the rear doors, removed the back seat, removed the back wall insulation and put Peel and Seal all over the frigging place. I was going to get Dynamat, but I called a local install shop to purchase some, and they said "Don't waste your money, get the Peal and Seal stuff, it's the same thing. One of my neighbors reccomended a local roofing company. SO, for $88.00 I picked up a 100 sq ft. roll of this stuff, aluminum backed. It goes on very easily. Got the amps mounted on the back wall and started some wiring also. Im going to finish the weekend out sealing the floor and replacing the plastic and such. My JL's should be here today or Monday, we'll see if they fit in this Thunderform. Not sure if they will or if I will like them in there. Looks awfull small... I've taken a few pics and I'll post them once I get this finished. Hoping to install the head unit next week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmergencyVP1 Posted June 12, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2006 Here are some pics of the progress I made over the weekend... fabbed a piece of 3/4" plywood and mounted amps to them after putting the "Peel and Seal" on. This was my first time using this stuff but is really easy to work with. Sealed all doors, back wall and rear floor area. Not very pretty, but very functional. Rear door before and after Front door before and after Next is the install of the Pac-Alpine steering wheel interface and Alpine 9855 HU, Thunderform and 2 JL 10's (still crossing my fingers that the JL's fit in that Thunderform) If not, fast4popper, I'll be getting ahold of you for that custom box !! Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r8rs4lf Posted June 12, 2006 Report Share Posted June 12, 2006 Are you doing the "rear seat fold down trick?" If so, it looks like something back there might hit those tabs for that "Y" cable. Make sure you cut those things off before you re-install the seat or something back there is going to be taking a beating. Looks good, but why not go all the way to the sides with the plywood? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmergencyVP1 Posted June 12, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2006 Are you doing the "rear seat fold down trick?" If so, it looks like something back there might hit those tabs for that "Y" cable. Make sure you cut those things off before you re-install the seat or something back there is going to be taking a beating. Looks good, but why not go all the way to the sides with the plywood? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Yeah I did the seat trick and cut the back tabs off, they were touching the amps. I thought about doing the panel all the way across the back, and should have now that I look at it. I may still do that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SS_bnoon_SS Posted June 12, 2006 Report Share Posted June 12, 2006 fabbed a piece of 3/4" plywood and mounted amps to them after putting the "Peel and Seal" on. This was my first time using this stuff but is really easy to work with. Sealed all doors, back wall and rear floor area. Not very pretty, but very functional. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Is that the stuff from Home Depot??? Is Peel and Seal what it's called? Which department is it from??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fast4popper Posted June 12, 2006 Report Share Posted June 12, 2006 fabbed a piece of 3/4" plywood and mounted amps to them after putting the "Peel and Seal" on. This was my first time using this stuff but is really easy to work with. Sealed all doors, back wall and rear floor area. Not very pretty, but very functional. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Is that the stuff from Home Depot??? Is Peel and Seal what it's called? Which department is it from??? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Peel and seal can be had at the Gannon roofing store here in DM. here is the problem with it, IT STINKS!!!!!!!!!!! it literally smells terrible for months after it gets hot and it falls off after time, to get the full effect of deadening from it you need 2 or more layers, when checkin the cost on it this way it evens out. I do have a question for you VIP, what shop here in DM told you that? I would love to know.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SS_bnoon_SS Posted June 12, 2006 Report Share Posted June 12, 2006 (edited) Peel and seal can be had at the Gannon roofing store here in DM. here is the problem with it, IT STINKS!!!!!!!!!!! it literally smells terrible for months after it gets hot and it falls off after time, to get the full effect of deadening from it you need 2 or more layers, when checkin the cost on it this way it evens out. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Ahhhhhh, gotcha, stinky and costs the same. I'll stick with my Dead Zone and Road Kill stuff. Edited June 12, 2006 by SS_bnoon_SS (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmergencyVP1 Posted June 13, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2006 Car Sound told me that it was what they used in their shop for installs like that. They said all that they had were 5' sheets of Dynamat and this "Peel and Seal" is the way to go. It does have a odor to it. We'll see what happens when it gets warmer this week. I got the HU in tonight and started messing around with it. Kinda confused with all the freaking settings on the amps, HU, etc. So I need to do some reading on what does what I'll give it a couple weeks, if that stuff still smells bad, it's coming out (if i can get it out One thing I noticed is that I had the key on for about 20 mins, setting up the controls on the HU and the amps, and it DRAINED the battery dead. And I've got the whining noise from the speakers also....Any ideas?? I connected the amp power lead to the red auxillary box on the side of the engine. fabbed a piece of 3/4" plywood and mounted amps to them after putting the "Peel and Seal" on. This was my first time using this stuff but is really easy to work with. Sealed all doors, back wall and rear floor area. Not very pretty, but very functional. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Is that the stuff from Home Depot??? Is Peel and Seal what it's called? Which department is it from??? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Peel and seal can be had at the Gannon roofing store here in DM. here is the problem with it, IT STINKS!!!!!!!!!!! it literally smells terrible for months after it gets hot and it falls off after time, to get the full effect of deadening from it you need 2 or more layers, when checkin the cost on it this way it evens out. I do have a question for you VIP, what shop here in DM told you that? I would love to know.... <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SS_bnoon_SS Posted June 13, 2006 Report Share Posted June 13, 2006 Car Sound? I would never, ever ever ever, trust those hacks! Sorry to be so blunt, but when I used to install car audio "on the side" (prior to working at Audio Plus in '96-'97), half of my business was rewiring their installs! I've seen some of their installs since then and they haven't improved in my opinion... They have used one 8 gauge wire split off through a really nice power distribution block to power multiple 500 watts amps, I've pulled 16 gauge speaker wire off of subwoofers, power wire through the firewall without grommets... the list goes on and on. Unless you know someone there and are getting yourself a great deal on equipment (they do have some decent deals there from time to time), do not ever go there again, ESPECIALLY for installation advice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmergencyVP1 Posted June 13, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2006 (edited) Car Sound? I would never, ever ever ever, trust those hacks! Sorry to be so blunt, but when I used to install car audio "on the side" (prior to working at Audio Plus in '96-'97), half of my business was rewiring their installs! I've seen some of their installs since then and they haven't improved in my opinion... They have used one 8 gauge wire split off through a really nice power distribution block to power multiple 500 watts amps, I've pulled 16 gauge speaker wire off of subwoofers, power wire through the firewall without grommets... the list goes on and on. Unless you know someone there and are getting yourself a great deal on equipment (they do have some decent deals there from time to time), do not ever go there again, ESPECIALLY for installation advice! <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Really? I had car sound do a couple installations for me years ago, when I did'nt like messing with that stuff. I thought they did a great job, course that was 10 years ago or so. No I do my own installations. I have a business selling police, fire and ems equipment and we do installations of lighting, sirens, etc. So this stuff is pretty straightforward for me (although setting the gains, crossovers, etc im learning as I go ) As far as the Peel and Seal that I used, the smell is going away (or maybe im getting used to it ) I got one of the JL 10w3v2's this morning. It fits perfectly in the Thunderform. The second one is coming this afternoon. I think I've got the system sounding pretty good. I know that just one of those JL's hit's pretty hard, can't wait to get the other one in there!! SIDE NOTE: Im running both of these JL's off a Alpine MRV-T707 amp in bridged mode. How do I connect the subs. Do i run them in a series?? Also this amp has a Sheeeaaatt of little control settings, etc...Where can I find out what does what, so I know what im doing when I adjust it. I don't want to fry these subs.. Edited June 13, 2006 by EmergencyVP1 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SS_bnoon_SS Posted June 13, 2006 Report Share Posted June 13, 2006 What are the speakers , 4 or 8 Ohm? What Ohm load is the amp rated for??? Wiring the speakers correctly is where many would-be installers go wrong, so be carefull, or something will likely blow up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r8rs4lf Posted June 13, 2006 Report Share Posted June 13, 2006 And I've got the whining noise from the speakers also....Any ideas?? I connected the amp power lead to the red auxillary box on the side of the engine. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Do some testing first. If possible, hook the speakers where you hear the whine to something other than the amp (if that's where it's hooked up to) to see if the whine goes away. If nothing pans out, check your grounds to make sure they are touching bare metal. I had the exact same problem so I hooked up the speakers directly to the HU and the whine went away. I ended up replacing the amp and all is . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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