TurbochargedBerserker Posted June 26, 2006 Report Share Posted June 26, 2006 No, my tranny was not lowered in the rear when I put the bolts in the first time I had the tranny out. Removing the intake just allows easy access to the bolts on top. Very easy access. I have had my motor out twice since I did my TC install. Getting to those top bolts from underneath is a major pain. Getting the intake off takes about 10min and that's taking a break halfway through. I also have electric fans, which allows easier access from the top. I just stand on the crossmember just below the engine and reach back there. Painless. What is your motor out for Erik? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> 10 MINUTES?!?! You must work for a nascar pit crew Ben! It took me all of an hour and I didn't even get a break! <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Got mine off in 30 minutes, and disassembled the fuel rails as I went. It gets faster the more you've messed with it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allballz57 Posted June 26, 2006 Report Share Posted June 26, 2006 Well I just finished mt tbtc install and everything went well! I used all the advice from this thread and it helped out big time. I removed the intake,starter,trans. dipstick which made it a lot easier to get to the bolts for the trans and flywheel.I needed 7 quarts of tranny fluid to top it off but I think it was mostly because of the angle I had the trans at when I lowered it out with the transfer case still on,lots of fluid spillage! I'm happy with the converter,it seems to stall at around 3000 rpm,but my engine hits the rev limit right as it shifts(making it shift slower almost like a manual shift)but I already sent my spare pcm for a reprogram for the tbtc juct have to wait until it comes in. Thanks for all the help!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SS_bnoon_SS Posted June 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2006 Well I just finished mt tbtc install and everything went well! I used all the advice from this thread and it helped out big time. I removed the intake,starter,trans. dipstick which made it a lot easier to get to the bolts for the trans and flywheel.I needed 7 quarts of tranny fluid to top it off but I think it was mostly because of the angle I had the trans at when I lowered it out with the transfer case still on,lots of fluid spillage! I'm happy with the converter,it seems to stall at around 3000 rpm,but my engine hits the rev limit right as it shifts(making it shift slower almost like a manual shift)but I already sent my spare pcm for a reprogram for the tbtc juct have to wait until it comes in. Thanks for all the help!!! <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I got mine done this weekend too, though the thoughts of doing a full "How To" with pics were shattered at about 4 O'clock when a thunderstorm moved in (we were working in the driveway at a friend's house) and we were already waaaaaaay behind schedule... We had some setbacks when my friend was trying to get the trans lines removed from the side of the tranny and thought he could get some slack from the front cooler and rad end of the lines. He didn't see that the lines were held in place with the keeper pins and he tried to turn off the nuts... one snapped cooler core later, I came out from under the truck and showed him how the lines were supposed to come off. DOH! At least he broke that end though and not the lines coming off of the trans. We looped the two connections together with high pressure 3/8" line and then easily removed the lines from the side of the tranny once he knew how they came off. I too had much spillage of fluid with the transfer case still attached. Doing it over, I would have just pulled the drain plug and refilled the whole thing for a cleaner job. Also, the connectors on the shift module on the side of the trans did NOT come off at all. I could have saved an hour by just removing the two 13mm bolts (the one you must use an open end wrench to reach) and the 15mm nut from the linkage. Take that whole thing off took maybe 5 minutes vs. risking breaking the plastic connectors that seem to be glued in place. After we got that done, the trans came right down after popping loose a few harness clips (as we went). I pulled the converter as it sat on the jack, and it was back in place running in the truck in just a few hours. I'll still do a full write up for the "How To" forum, just minus pics. If someone would have had one done before me, I could have had it done MUCH sooner. Thanks for the tips in here though, dang... I couldn't imagine how much longer it would have taken me... After doing it just once, I think I could now do it in about 4-5 hours on stands... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurbochargedBerserker Posted June 26, 2006 Report Share Posted June 26, 2006 BTW those connectors are glued in place. You can use a heat gun to loosen them up (but don't melt the plastic!). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SS_bnoon_SS Posted June 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2006 BTW those connectors are glued in place. You can use a heat gun to loosen them up (but don't melt the plastic!). <{POST_SNAPBACK}> WOW! They actually are glued in place? This is the first I've seen anything about this... Still, as easy as the module is to remove and reinstall, it's much easier to just pull it from the trans with the connectors still on there as far as I can see it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckshot77 Posted June 26, 2006 Report Share Posted June 26, 2006 Well Brad, that would explain why we couldn't get them pulled off! At least the driveway doesn't look like it's bleeding anymore. I'll have to get a better ride now that you've got it checked out and won't have 100 lbs of crap stuffed in the back. Rick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SS_bnoon_SS Posted June 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2006 Well Brad, that would explain why we couldn't get them pulled off! At least the driveway doesn't look like it's bleeding anymore. I'll have to get a better ride now that you've got it checked out and won't have 100 lbs of crap stuffed in the back. Rick <{POST_SNAPBACK}> LOL! Yeah, I can actually hit the gas off of the line now without fearing something shooting through the tailgate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenKey Posted June 27, 2006 Report Share Posted June 27, 2006 10 MINUTES?!?! You must work for a nascar pit crew Ben! It took me all of an hour and I didn't even get a break! <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Okay, so I wasn't specific. I use a 3/8" hi-speed impact wrench on the 10mm bolts for removal. A minute and a half, tops, for the 14 or 16 bolts. I have a metal fuel line tool. You'd be surprised how much the flimsy white plastic ones will take you to the 30secs it will with the metal one. In fact, I fought about 10min once trying to use the plastic one. After the fuel lines and bolts are done, what else is there that takes any time? My harness no longer attaches to my intake, so maybe that speeds it up some. I will bet you a paycheck I can have it off in 8 minutes. I was being generous with 10. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurbochargedBerserker Posted June 27, 2006 Report Share Posted June 27, 2006 I use a 3/8" hi-speed impact wrench on the 10mm bolts for removal. A minute and a half, tops, for the 14 or 16 bolts. I have a metal fuel line tool. You'd be surprised how much the flimsy white plastic ones will take you to the 30secs it will with the metal one. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Amen ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allballz57 Posted June 27, 2006 Report Share Posted June 27, 2006 10 MINUTES?!?! You must work for a nascar pit crew Ben! It took me all of an hour and I didn't even get a break! <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Okay, so I wasn't specific. I use a 3/8" hi-speed impact wrench on the 10mm bolts for removal. A minute and a half, tops, for the 14 or 16 bolts. I have a metal fuel line tool. You'd be surprised how much the flimsy white plastic ones will take you to the 30secs it will with the metal one. In fact, I fought about 10min once trying to use the plastic one. After the fuel lines and bolts are done, what else is there that takes any time? My harness no longer attaches to my intake, so maybe that speeds it up some. I will bet you a paycheck I can have it off in 8 minutes. I was being generous with 10. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Aaahhh, I see no wiring harness! I was being cautious since it was my first time,and I figured I could do it in 30 minutes my second time. I can see how with no plastic covers,wiring harness, and special tools it could be done in 10 minutes or 8 by a pro! I guess I will have to officially take back my Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SS_bnoon_SS Posted June 27, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2006 I have a metal fuel line tool. You'd be surprised how much the flimsy white plastic ones will take you to the 30secs it will with the metal one. In fact, I fought about 10min once trying to use the plastic one. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I actually prefer the round spring loaded plastic ones, especially on the Ford spring loaded fuel line connections. I had to buy and use a metal one this time since I forgot my set back at home and it wasn't bad, just not for me. I actually even made a short video of a fuel line removal on a Ford Contour one time to settle an argument over how easy the fuel line could be disconnected... Fuel line removal clip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenKey Posted June 28, 2006 Report Share Posted June 28, 2006 That's a different kind of tool. Not sure that would work on the GM fuel lines. The one I had from my Radix install, is the same type NAPA would sell. It's not the fact that it's plastic, it's soft plastic. You try to push it in the fuel line to release the springs, it gives too much. If it were hard plastic, then it would probably be just as good as a metal one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SS_bnoon_SS Posted June 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2006 Yeah, they do work on the GM rails too, with the right size anyway. The metal one that I had to buy since I forgot my other plastic set was kinda like scissors in operation. They're a little more cumbersome than the type in my clip, at least to me, but they each work better than the soft type scissor ones apparently. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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