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Started by adding a sub and amp...


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After having some initial problems... I finally have it working properly and decided to take some pics of the initial installation.

 

I made a small bracket to hold my circuit breaker. I mounted it by replacing two existing bolts (the ones that go to the factory battery connection block) with studs/nuts. I covered the leads with heat shrink tubing to better hide them in with the other factory wires. I'll be putting black split loom on them as well, but didn't have enough to do the job right now...

 

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Here's the large compression grommet mounted in the firewall. I used a stepped Uni-bit to cut the hole... Finally, a vehicle that doesn't require you to lay flat on your back under tha dash catching hot shards on your forearm and facce to drill through the firewall, LOL!

 

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Don't forget to improve the factory ground wire!!! I used 4 gauge (same size as power wire) to go under this factory fender brace bolt...

 

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Here's the sub box as it is now. Single 12" Kicker Solobaric (series 1 round). Downward fire, sound exists towards the rear of the cab to lengthen the listening path to the ear for deeper base (lower bass notes are longer and you need to be farther away to hear them properly).

 

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Nothing is covered for now, (still testing the box) but everything will be in a matching vinyl (Chris, fast4popper, found a nice Toyota vinyl for his at a local uphoulstry shop that he used in his). I'll be using construction adhesive and some brackets to mount a sheet of 3/4" MDF to the rear cab wall to mount the amps/X-over/EQ's to and covering that in vinyl too. I've already done the rear seat fold down trick, so that part is done... It's about damn time... I've had this thing a year almost and this is the first round of stereo install I've done on it... :dunno:

Edited by SS_bnoon_SS (see edit history)
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looks pretty good so far, how much air space you get out of that box? Also walmart has vinyl that matches up pretty close to our color, saw it there the other day. You have a bottom shot of the sub box with the sub?

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looks pretty good so far, how much air space you get out of that box?  Also walmart has vinyl that matches up pretty close to our color, saw it there the other day.  You have a bottom shot of the sub box with the sub?

 

No, not yet. If I end up liking the box, I'll cover it and take some finished pics. Basically, the sub sits on about a 10 degree angle facing downwards and slightly towards the back... The box is just a touch to big right now, so I'm going to drill a hole and inject some expanding foam into one of the corners to fill it up a bit. The external dimensions are 21"L by 13" wide and 9" on the front side and 6" on the rear side...

 

BTW, Walmart vinyl?!?!?! Don't think so. It's no match for a high quality two way stretch vinyl from a real interior shop.

 

Why did you go through the firewall? What is that wire for?

 

12+ POWER! :dunno:

 

:crackup:

 

The sub is powered by a ZX350 Phoenix Gold amp for now. I'm trying to reassemble an old Orion 2150 (broken RCA leads) and will probably swap it out soon. Plus, the old Orion SX series amps are black and brushed aluminum, which will look good with the truck colors. :cheers:

Edited by SS_bnoon_SS (see edit history)
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how did you get it to fit in the back corner where the hump is? That was always my problem when building with just mdf because it slopes on an angle to the floor and it always had to be rounded off somehow. I was just sayin walmart had vinyl in case you were to do a quick cover of the box

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how did you get it to fit in the back corner where the hump is?  That was always my problem when building with just mdf because it slopes on an angle to the floor and it always had to be rounded off somehow.  I was just sayin walmart had vinyl in case you were to do a quick cover of the box

 

I just rounded the corner off at the hump... I didn't need a perfect fit back there anyway as the rear is where the sound exits this configuration. Is that what you meant? :confused:

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Reason for asking is because you could have just went under the truck by the driver front floormat where there is a rubber grommet, up into the cab under the plastic along the door to the rear.  :dunno:  No need to drill a hole.

 

That area wasn't large enough to mount a compression grommet, which holds the wire better and keeps it from moving around compared to a regular push through grommet. :thumbs:

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yeah, that corner always seemed to give me trouble with fitment so I figured i would ask, also why i asked for a bottom shot so i could see :cheers:

 

I broke out the office camera just for you. You can see the part near the center "hump" is quite a bit shorter than the outer panel to make it fit better.

 

I need to space the drive up a bit farther though as I can see where the cone has made an impression in the carpet under the seat already (I could hear it at higher volumes too). Oh well, that's why it's a test box...

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i went to an electrical shop called Grainger and got a DC stud mount circuit breaker.

i then went to a local impliment dealer and got 2gauge welding wire

 

1 PAC OEM interface so i can use my steering wheel controlls

2 Sound Stream Picasso 1400.1 mono block 'D' class

2 Kicker s12L7's 2ohm DVC

1 1 farad cap

1 power distribution block

18' of 2 gauge welding wire from Fleet Farm

1 60 amp DC stud circuit breaker from Grainger

1 Subthump Ultra deep sub box. for $175 i'll just let someone else build it!

1 remote gain controll

1 homemade amp rack

1 rear seat flip down trick. normaly the seat only flips up, not down.

1 4 way hi-beam. it's not stereo related but when i hit the hi-beams, i blind people. just need 1 diode from Radio Shack and $0.85

 

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Edited by Meegs (see edit history)
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