misterp Posted August 30, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2006 I think it mainly matters that the batteries are charged....when the amp pulls hard, I dont think it really matters what the alt is, to an extent...the amps will just pull a lot out of the batteries and then your alt is there to fill em back up....I might be wrong.... With all respect Dan I have to disagree - the only time the battery provides power is when the alternator cannot; the alternator is the SOLE source of electrical current for the vehicle while the engine is running. The alternator puts out higher voltage than the battery, and the battery is actually drawing off a float charge of a couple amps whenever the alternator is running. If your voltage drops below 13.8 volts then you are overdrawing the alternator; if your voltage sags below 12.8 volts then you are also overdrawing the battery; if voltage falls below 12.2 volts then you have exhausted 50% of your battery's reserve capacity (while simultaneously overdrawing the alternator). Those trick LED voltage guages do not work btw because they do not react fast enough to show you what is really happening at the moment, they are giving an averaged reading - the display will read "13.8" or "14.4" but for a few milliseconds the current will drop below that during the big bass hit, it is just happening so fast each beat that the guage will not show it but you can be guaranteed that your bass is only hitting with battery current/voltage. If the electrical system is inadequate the only way to fix this, and again I repeat, the ONLY WAY to fix this, is to replace the alternator if your voltage is sagging to below 13 volts (while the alternator is running). If you want the horses then you've gotta feed them the hay, in my case this means I need 145A for the truck and 300A for the Orions; the one good thing is that you only need a 30% duty cycle i.e. your charging system doesn't have to put out 445A for 100% of the time (that would be f'n insane). Mr. P. Hey - on a related note, the 2500D amp (according to Orion tech support) replace the 100A power fuses with 150A fuses and wire the subs for .5-ohm load = 3700W if the charging system can keep the voltage at 13.8v. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted August 30, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2006 I called them today. 200 for the bracket if you buy the alts too. or 350 if you dont. it looks like a quality piece. otherwise, I can get you a CRAZY deal on the whole dual set up from Stinger. 2 200 amp alts and the bracket included. pm me and I will give you the price. I will def call you for sure The more I think about it, I am leaning towards dual 220's - what's the idle current on the Stinger 220A alts? And does the Stinger bracket position the alts side-by-side like the Ohio bracket? Are they multi-post, or is there just one big MOFO lug at the rectifier? Are they one-wire? What about the HIGH output single alternators? I've seen Dominick Iraggi advertising 400A units for about $600... I'm assuming their idle current is not very impressive? Mr. P. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blk06Limited Posted August 30, 2006 Report Share Posted August 30, 2006 I've had good luck with the Delco CS144 200-Amp piece. Can be purchased in a heavy duty, dual-rectifier configuration which is all but required for longlevity when used in a high power stereo situation. It can also be configured as 1-wire. Can't remember what the hot-amp rating off the top of my head. Anyway, it's a reliable unit which I've used in 3 high-powered systems. Would be killer in dual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted August 30, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2006 I've had good luck with the Delco CS144 200-Amp piece. Can be purchased in a heavy duty, dual-rectifier configuration which is all but required for longlevity when used in a high power stereo situation. It can also be configured as 1-wire. Can't remember what the hot-amp rating off the top of my head. Anyway, it's a reliable unit which I've used in 3 high-powered systems. Would be killer in dual.Cool - thanks for the hot tip Mr. P. edit - found some on the web - http://www.alternatorparts.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d_a_n_payne Posted August 30, 2006 Report Share Posted August 30, 2006 I figured I was was wrong.....ooohh well.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ccgoodwrench Posted November 12, 2006 Report Share Posted November 12, 2006 you need something like this?? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> dam chase you could weld with that and cook your dinner in a microwave, I was wondering about all of the trucks wirring, do you have to uprade to a heavy gauge wirring, i have installed e-fans and notice that my volt gauge is dropping to like 13 volts, so i gonna upgrade to a 145 amp alt. wanted to know if i need to go with a higher fusible link at the alt. also i have both fans to come on at low and high speed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
04CHASE Posted November 12, 2006 Report Share Posted November 12, 2006 i upgraded to a 200 amp alt, and an optima yeller top , no more voltage drop here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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