Pulling out the whole engine

[lucky7_93021]

So I have a "few" parts to install...

 

1) TOG headers

2) Comp Cam

3) 160 stat

4) Tranny Cooler

5) E-fans

6) Yank TT2600

 

I talked it over with my Uncle last night, he has an auto shop and builds high performance engines. He told me the best way to do this, especially with the cam install, would be to pull the engine.

I'd have the added benifit of access to the torque converter without having to drop the tranny. Also, with the engine out pulling the heads off to change the springs would be much eaiser than dicking around with the air fitting and spring compressor.

What do you all think? Will everything I have to remove for the installs the engine would be almost out anyway right?

Thoughts?

[SuperSport]

I have done a cam install without taking the motor, and it wasn't bad just pull the radiator, not the A/C condenser, also put magnet pens on the lifters to keep them from dropping. TC can be swapped just by dropping exhaust, unbolting trans, sliding it back as far as you can get it, and turn it towards the passanger side. Up to you, but I know it will be more work to pull the motor.

Edited November 6, 2006 by SuperSport (see edit history)

[lucky7_93021]

Yeah I figured it would be more work.... but could save time in the long run having good access to everything.

[misterp]

*IF* you have a good chain hoist available and a paved floor I would agree with your uncle. Think of it this way - you already have to undress the front of the motor (for the efans/cam) and pull the motor mount bolts (for the headers) and undo the bellhousing (for the converter) and undress the top of the engine (for the valvetrain) and the entire exhaust already has to come out (for the headers); you'd only be another 20-40 minutes more in R&R-ing the engine, and your uncle is right that time "invested" with the hoist would probably gain you at least several hours elsewhere - you'd be time ahead. Your only issue is getting the hood properly aligned after reinstall, and the trick there is to drill a couple tiny holes through the hood/hinge before unbolting so you can use the drillbit later to precisely locate the hood back onto the hinges later. I'd do it; then again, leaving the engine in will only cost you another 1/2 to 1 day in wrenching time.

 

Mr. P.

[orion :: SS]

I'd say that it will be a little more work, but EASIER work.

 

More time but less hassle...? Your call.

 

- Brian

[Krambo]

Yea, pull it. While your at it (isnt always the case) it would be a great time to do rod bolts and an upgraded oil pump.

[misterp]

Yea, pull it.  While your at it (isnt always the case) it would be a great time to do rod bolts and an upgraded oil pump.

:withstupid: I didn't think of that but yeah definitely.

[lucky7_93021]

Ok then pulling it sounds like the way to go. I didn't think about the hood Mr. P... why would I need to take the hood off? What other steps are involved in getting it out, and back in? Would I need an extra tall hoist?

Oh, I did forget to add the oil pump to the list, but I was doing that and a double timing chain too. What are some good rod bolts to get?

 

Thanks for the advice!

Edited November 6, 2006 by lucky7_93021 (see edit history)

[misterp]

You remove the hood because it's in the way!!! If you've not removed an engine before you might consider undressing everything then having your uncle come over and supervise you lifting it out that first time. Make sure the hoist you use has a boom that lifts high enough to get the oil pan above the radiator core. ARP Rod bolts, you want these ones (hi-perf, $70). For another $15 you can get the ARP 2000 rod bolts, they're the best available but IMO overkill for a N/A motor with factory rods. But there's never anything wrong with overkill

 

Beyond what's already been mentioned the extra steps involved would be disconnecting the electrical (injector harness, alternator, starter, sensors) and plumbing (fuel lines at the injector rail, oil cooler, and radiator hoses).

 

Mr. P.

 

ps - the hood, a lot of guys will mark/scribe the hinges but I've found the best way is to drill tiny holes (no larger than 1/8") and use the drillbit to 'pin' the hinges back to their original location, much more positive than eyeballing chalk or scratch marks.

Edited November 6, 2006 by misterp (see edit history)

[lucky7_93021]

Yeah he said to get it ready for removal and he'd come over and help with the rest. I need to find a place that rents hoists and engine stands.

I know it would be the better way of doing it... but it sounds like so much work to get the thing out of there. I'm sure it wouldn't be as bad as it sounds, but I dont want to start down a road I cant come back from.

I was going to have the TC installed by a place down the street and then do everything else in my garage.. followed up by a muffler place connecting the headers into the exhaust. Pulling the engine saves me from the tranny shop and some install tools but would still cost in the rental of hoist and stand.

Good times..... what a painful addiction this is :-)

[misterp]

You'll do well, you're just being hit with fear of the unknown at the moment. As your uncle is willing to lend a hand with the hoist I would encourage you to do it; it's really not that much more work that you're already planning to do. Too bad you're not closer, I've got an extra engine stand taking up room you could have for $5! Renting a cherry picker and engine stand for the weekend will cost far less than torque converter & header install labor.

 

Honestly, sounds like with your experience whether you R&R the engine or not it will take you the same amount of time. But will be SOOOO much easier and you will get far more done in that time.

 

Mr. P.

 

ps - don't forget to pin the crank since you're right there.

Edited November 6, 2006 by misterp (see edit history)

[lucky7_93021]

Ok then, you're talking me into it. I've done lots of things but nothing like taking the whole engine out. You're right, its freakin me out a little.... always good times.

Do you think I should rent the picker and stand or just buy them? Would this work? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Disp...itemnumber=7620

If I rent them... where is a good place to try? Do auto places like auto zone have them for rent?

Thanks for all the help Mr. P!!!!

 

Oh, I'm def going to take lot's of pictures and try to document the whole removal process.

Edited November 6, 2006 by lucky7_93021 (see edit history)

[misterp]

I would not think the auto parts stores have this kind of equipment to rent. Flip through the phone book for the commercial rental places, tell them you need to rent a cherry picker and engine stand for the weekend; guarantee you they'll have a cherry picker, the engine stand maybe/maybe-not depending on the business you call. Last time I rented a cherry picker was like 10+ years ago and I think it was $25 for the weekend, I doubt the prices have changed much...

 

Mr. P.

[BenKey]

Coming from a guy who has pulled this motor 3 times, it certainly isn't hard. Overall it may take less time to pull to the other work, but I think that comes to your experience level at any of it.

 

I personally would not pull the motor to do all of this work. I have done everything you've mentioned with the motor in. It does not require motor mounts to come out in the any of the readily available headers out there. The cam, oil pump, and chain can obviously be done all at once. A TC change can be done in about 4hrs if you have access to a lift.

 

A cherry picker can usually be had for less than $150 at Pep Boys, although you may have to catch it on sale.

 

Either way - good luck.

 

All important thing to remember if you pull it - mark all of your grounds and injector harness wires. Everything else you can't mess up and they will only go one way. Grounds have kicked numerous people's butts - me once - when it comes to starting back up. Mess them up and it doesn't happen.

[Quicksilverado]

Its not difficult to swap the cam with the motor in the truck.