Jump to content

RP Racing Oil


Badkarma

Recommended Posts

hey everyone.

Just a quick Q about RP racing oil. Ive used the Racing 41 in our daily driver camaro for years and love the stuff, much more consistant than there off the shelf stuff. I plan on running the XPR 5W30 in the truck, my only Q is, all the stuff that the EPA hates and motors love * i.e. higher zink levels* will that mess up the oxygen sensors? I thaught it might cause problems with the cats but was told by RP it would be fine. I wrote an email to RP and the tech guy said that the oil would be a great choice for the truck, I just wanted to see if anyone here had run it, or if anyone is ran a racing grade oil. Thanks guys!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There are a lot of people on here who respond to oil questions, and I don't want to step on anyone's toes ... If I get any off responses from anyone, this will be the last one I respond to ... Oils are like religion ... Ya never tell anyone anyting about oil because you're bound to get into it ... And in the end, a lot of things are hard to prove scientifically on a single case basis ... so it goes ...

 

I have run RP41, and RP 21 in V8 engines, and have spent extensive time conversing with RP's tech dept on things like this you mention ...

 

Let's clarify something ... In GF-3, and GF-4 oils, API starburst, yada yada, Phosphorous and Zinc (indirectly) has been capped ... I believe it is 900 ppm or so in a GF-4 oil ... The surrounding controversy you mention is, "does too much phos in an oil affect emmissions" ... some say YES, some say NO ... It is true that phos in long term tests deteriorates the catalyst in the converters, and they are mandated by the oem's to guarantee them for 100,000 miles (I think) ... So the push is for low phos content to preserve catalyst ... Zinc in high doses is not good for emmissions components either ... I say, "let's put the protection back in oil, and keep the vehicle maintained over the long haul and maybe the extra phos and zinc will inhibit ring wear and we won't be passing oil into the cats" ... Thats a general statement, but you get the idea ... (let's refer to phos and zinc as ZDDP because that's the acronym) Zinc dialkyl dithio phosphate ..

 

Now, how much zddp anti-wear additives depends on what the motor is used for ... a daily passenger car at recommended intervals IMO is well protected with the capped levels of zddp (along with the other new an upcoming aw adds like boron, and moly) and a few "fluid aw adds in the ester" family that can be polar ...

 

zddp levels in PCMO is adequate to pass the GF-4 and GF-3 protocol ... But when we get into hobbyists like ourselves, we run things hotter, higher rpm, and increase loads on internal bearing surfaces ...

 

Enter the non-api / starburst oils ... the non-GF3 or GF4 oils ... you can have a valid spec 5W30, but it might not be Starburst of GF-3 or 4 rated ... why? because (mainly) it has too much zddp, which the emmissions gods don't like ... aw additives are depleted in oils asis the whole add package, over use or mileage ... the only time zddp comes into play is when the fluid barrier has been breached and you go metal to metal ... (rare) ... then it is the aw adds that protect bearing surfaces ... more is not always better, it depends on the application, how long the fluid barrier is lost, and how fast you spin the motor and for how long ... and of course the pressure between surfaces trying to squich the oil molecule from adhesion ...

 

There are many many oils that have more than the capped zddp levels, RP race oils being one of them ... there are alternatives as well, and it gets pretty complicated ... Mobil 1 extended performance (their 15K oil) has about double the zddp as a GF-3 or 4 oil ... remember when I said additives deplete over time? ... M1 15K oil is not oem warranty approved for this reason ... GF-3 or GF-4 ... it has too much zddp ... it also has more of the other things that make up an add-pack to go the 15K as well ... (extended performance M1 is a tuner's secret and holds it's own in extremes near as good as redline) ... another oil people over look as a beautiful tuner's oil is HDMO (dual rated diesel and gas oils) they have even more AW adds and inhibitors than a racing oil ... I know a local builder who swears by Delo 400 15W40 in his old school motors and for damn good reason ...

 

I can go on and on ... best thing to do is go to bobistheoilguy.com and look at their voa section under RP race oils and you will see IC results on virgin samples as to the ppm levels of many extended performance oils and racing oils ...

 

remember, more of one thing or another is not always better ... viscosity first, then the overall base and add-pack as a whole quart of oil id how you judge an oil ... RP for me? my opinion?

 

buy some M1 7500K or 15K oil over the counter and call it a day ... if you want the best, buy Redline ... does a SSS need it? ... Not until you like spinning rear mains with bukoo torque off the line ... IMO, the M1 api oil is capped at about 900ppm zddp ... the 15K oil is not and gives you a much more robust add pack with a true PAO syn base ... all over the counter under our noses ...

 

what I mean is, in a daily driven SSS there are more important things to look at in an oil choise than zddp levels if and when you would rarely see a breach in the fluid barrier ... GF-3 and GF-4 oils due to the testing requirements have pushed dino base oils to near syn performance and truth be told, the ONLY true full syn on the shelf at walmart anymore is M1 and Pennz Platinum ... the rest is all hydroprocessed GPIII dino ... pick an oil that has been proven to have the lowest wear metal analyses in your vis range in your area of the country, THEN if you want to look at upgrading the add-pack, for the "what-iffs" then so be it ...

 

FWIW, if you want added zddp, buy a bottle of STP treatment, that's mostly what it is along with a huge dose of Vis improvers ... Then to say, as oils have advanced, it seems there is NO EXTRA wear protection in a daily driver by spiking with zddp ... unless you go beyond recommended drains ... because zddp levels have been pushed lower and lower, the blenders have found other additives and fluid technology to make up for it ... again, until you start really putting stress on bearing surfaces and spinning high rpms; then I want as much aw adds as I can get ... peace

Edited by 11H (see edit history)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I apologize for this not being better organized and written ... I am trying to write at work and it's all from the hip ...  :(

 

Dont feel bad man! I bounce around like that when I write too! Most of my posts and replies are also done at work, so I know were your coming from lol. Thanks for all the info, though most of it went way over my head :crazy: I agree with you about some people and oil/ religion omg some people get bent out of shape dont they! I like most people tend to stick with what has worked best for me, though the two vehicles when have ( 1972 camaro, and our SS) are driven hard, they are very well maintained, would be stupid not to will all the blood sweat and tears put into building the maro and all the $$ the SSS cost lol. Some my call me an anal fool but despite that I still change my oil at 3000 miles or less, cause it cant hurt. No off post here about your replie my friend, I would much rather get barradged with info than just some smart a$$ replie from some kid who parents baught him a new toy.

 

Here is the other baby, thaught you might like to see, sorry for the huge pic size lol

 

thedaughter.jpg[/img]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ya know, that is one nice ride ! ... I love those split bumpers! ... A good friend just bought a 73 ... Forest green with SS stripes ... all cherry ...

 

My dream car is a '68 SS 396 in Silver with black stripes (Borg Warner straight throw 4) ... I change my oil every 3K as well ... I use Pennzoil or Havoline exclusively in my daily cars & trucks for the first 6 or 7K ... I have done some repeated flogging with these 2 oils on the dyno back to back trying to induce heat soak in cai testing and it holds up fine ... Then I go Mobil 1 0W40 in NA trucks or German Castrol if I can find it ... after a treat of Militec, then I run 5K ... I have a 05 vic that gets the Castrol 5W20 and it comes out very clean in UOA so I stick with it ... The 5W20's are phenominal in the Ford modulars that recommend it ...

 

I used to run RP21 in my LT1's and they loved it, but it got hard to find here ... The Ls1 type motors on the other hand tend to favor an oil with a cSt of about 11 to 12 at 100C ... for best UOA's anyways from what I have seen ... and on the cold side, @40C, whatever is lowest ... Maybe 80 to 90 cSt ... The 5W40's and 0W40's run good ranges here in AZ ... A 0W30 is a little light for my blood here in near 120 deg heat ...

 

For sure, anyone running nos or blower needs a top tier full syn oil ... Like RP race, Redline, M1 Ext Perf, M1 5W40 Truck & SUV (actually Delvac1 in a different bottle haha; about the best 5W40 on the PLANET!) ... IMO :thumbs:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...