Headers need a sticky thread.

[crawlinss]

edelbrock header install

 

these headers went in fairly easy, fit/finish is very good, and their warranty response is great. so far im very happy with them. no huge gain in power, but low to midrange is noticeable.

 

start with the hard side, the driver's side. its a bit of a pain in the butt.

 

disconnect neg battery cable, jack up the truck/use ramps, and remove your collector bolts, 15mm heads.

 

i found it easier to remove the engine covers, and remove the back 2 plug wires and plugs.

 

remove the heat shield (10mm), and then the header bolts (10mm).

 

climb back under the truck, disconnect your front u-joint, and slide your front d/s back. work the manifold out from the bottom.

 

install new header in the same way, making sure to change the crush ring in the y-pipe if applicable.

 

start with the rear bolt, and make sure you put it in straight. we had trouble with the back ones wanting to x-thread.

 

start the threads with the gasket through the bolt, then slide the header under the bolt/washers. install one or two more bolts into the header (new hardware is 13mm), to hold it straight, tighten them snug (not crazy tight) and install the rest of the header bolts. crank them down, i finished at 25-30 ft/lbs.

 

the left side y-pipe had to be massaged a little to line up but worked ok. install your new collector bolts (i used more 8.8 hardened washers as i prefer one on top and bottom.)

 

crank them down with 11/16 hardware, re install your u-joint install your plugs/wires, and the hard side is done!

 

passenger side is very simple, loosen the header, pull it out, install the new one, tighten the same way, starting with the rear, to middle, to front, then the rest of the bolts.

 

hope this helps someone, this turned into a project at 4 pm and ended at 3am (but we also had did brakes on a subaru, had dinner, and had to diagonose a fractured rear drivers side spark plug, find a 24 hr parts store, and drive 74 miles round trip for a new plug!!!!)

[12'SROCK]

installed the edelbrocks today, they seem ok, didnt notice a big improvement though.... the trucks a big bitch, cant really expect headers and a cold air to get it movin out

if you had long tubes then it would get moving with your CAI again shorty header are just for looks

[crawlinss]

if you had long tubes then it would get moving with your CAI again shorty header are just for looks

 

 

i agree, i got them brand new for $200, cant complain about that, i think with different y pipes theyll be more noticeable. after driving it around for a full day, there is a decent difference, especially hammering it from like 30 onto the highway it is pretty noticeable, i would def. say worth the money and aggravation once i get the trans and other bolt-ons done.

[KaOs5582]

So wuts da differenve between Dynatechs Supermaxx, and the Pacesetters LTs Coated? it's all 3" in pipe in the stock exh. system anyways. Has anyone Dyno-Tuned and seen actual nubers? I'm kinda set on the Pacesetter's especially for a Grand cheaper

[ANGRYTIMBLIN]

I have been noticing allot of guys lately asking questions about exhaust bolt on's cat backs headers..

 

There is a new flow of people to this forum with the SS trucks getting cheaper you have whole new group of guys coming in.

 

So let's get some info up here about the most popular mod to our trucks.

 

Headers.

 

Who makes em, Feedback,Prices,Quality.

 

I will start the thread and throw in my two cents but being an active vendor I do not want to seem too bias so please guys chime in with your experience.

 

These are known companies so far off the top of my head

 

Top of the list

Belanger

ASM

TOG (The other guys)

Dynatech

Edelbrock

SLP

JBA

Pacesetter

Bansai

OBX

 

Products I have had personal experience with, Include Belanger,ASM,Dynatech and Pacesetter.

 

I listed them in order of what I feel is product quality and durability.

 

Off the top of my head again things to consider from headers I have personally dealt with.

 

Belanger is a set of headers only. True Try-y design creates the most low end torque out of any of the headers I have ever seen while maintains excellent clearance properties. You do need to fab your own head pipes. The headers also come jet coated with traditional 3 bolt flanges. Bar none in my personal opinion the best performing and designed header hands down.

 

ASM again requires you to either mod your head pipes or fab your own. However. A very well designed and durable product and more affordable than the Belanger for average Joe.

 

Dynatech is the king of the hill for advertisement and direct bolt on from engine to cat back boasting stainless steel construction and high flow cats for the price, if you are worried about emissions and just want the grunt and power of a long tube this is where you need to be. Biggest Pet peeve with the Dynatechs is with the stainless your heat transfer is about 100 times faster than a mild steel header that's uncoated. Stainless is a metal that wicks the heat as fast as it looses it. Problem is with no coating on the header and no additional under hood protection you have yourself a whole lot of hot air under that hood. If you buy them best advice have them coated. Just about everyone that sells them they offer coating.

 

 

Pacesetter, I have not only installed and worked on several sets of these. But the honest truth is I would never put these on my truck. Pacesetter by far is the least expensive but as far as I am concerned the design and quality reflect that. Especially with the SS trucks the cats are fairly important as to where you are in the country with emissions. The pacesetters not only terminate longer than any of the other headers I have mentioned but they offer no flanges and only a slip connection. They retail anywhere between 250-400 bucks with coating.. sure that's a budget deal but I compare them to the 79.99 dynomax and black jack headers you could get at super shops back in the 70's and 80's that fit just about anything if you use a sawzall and a hammer and some muffler clamps. The key seller about the pacesetters is the price. They are cheap. I have stated many times you get what you pay for especially true with automotive. One last thing to say about pacesetter.. They do manufacture a huge line of headers.. but if you actually look.. they are mostly for imports.. that to me was the last thing to turn me away.

 

 

There is allot to be said about headers and their flaws and their good points. I wanted to get a thread going that everyone can reply to and put in their .02 I felt this was important to do with the new influx of members to the forum.

 

On a final note I think everyone should remember when you mod your truck No matter if it is an air filter different oil or just a better wax. There is usually a fairly good reason things cost allot of money. Mostly because they are paying for the extensive work that went into the product.

Edited March 8, 2008 by ANGRYTIMBLIN (see edit history)

[ANGRYTIMBLIN]

Sorry, new to site... Still trying to figure out how everything works... Just ordered a set of Dynatech headers, should be here Monday. Figured I'll tackle the install next weekend, wondered if anyone has any advice or warnings before I do??? I put a set of SLP headers on a 2000 Firehawk, figure it can't be worse than that...

[inquenciocha]

I recently finished installing some Dynatech Supermaxx Headers & High Flow Cats and let me tell you, not an adventure I want to relive. Before installation I suggest you get them ceramic coated. I had them painted black to help dissipate the heat better, at least that’s what I heard and it looks much cleaner. With a little retuning, the truck sounds and runs like a dream. Yes, it was one of the worst seven hours I’ve went through and they’re a little pricey but well worth it. Tube/firewall spacing wasn’t an issue. I have more pics if interested. Be sure to read the instructions first, they have some helpful tips. I ordered mine through summitracing.com but had to deal with Dynatech customer support, good people. The headers were shipped with the wrong wiring harness and w/out header bolts. Dynatech shipped them out free of charge, ask for Ray… Thanks by the way.

 

Some Extra Tips:

 

Before tear down check the O2 sensor extension provided with the D-side REAR/after cat O2 sensor harness. I have two different O2 sensor harnesses, before and after the cat. For AWD, you’ll have to drop the driveshaft to install. Don’t forget to completely secure the harness up and out of the way of not only the cat but also the driveshaft. Keep the driveshaft off/loose to help with access to the last header bolt.

 

If you don’t have a lift, find a friend who has one. I did mine in my driveway and my neck was screaming by the end of the day. Don’t worry, it can be done.

 

If you don’t have break free for the stock collector bolts be prepared to use your handle from your jack stand w/a breaker bar and be prepared for a good time.

 

Come time for header alignment/installation, get a friend to either feed the header through or finger thread a couple bolts. If your headers don’t come back from coating with plastic wrapping, wrap the headers in a couple trash bags while feeding the header through the frame and motor and tear off when done. This will help to keep a good looking ceramic coat/paint job.

 

Stuff a rag or towel in between the area where the tubes come together. I had to take off the D-side header to fish out my elbow and 10mm socket, not fun.

 

I used the clamps provided but I recommend using better ones or squirt some hi temp RTV in the clamp crimp point. Exhaust tends to leak from there the most and the whole clamp doesn't really secure around the edges. P-side after cat clamp is going to be a little tricky, play with it to find wrench access. I put mine at the 9 o-clock position.

 

Depending on spacing, you might have to put a support bracket on the D-side tubing after the support frame. This will keep it from vibrating on the support frame.

 

Three wrenches that are a must; 17mm, 15mm and 14mm ratcheting wrenches. You don’t need them but they’re nice to have come tightening collectors and clamps.

 

 

 

Have fun

 

Edited April 22, 2008 by 918SS (see edit history)

[BigCountry]

LPP is a new GMT800 header supplier on the block.

 

 

321 SS

 

1 3/4" primary *corrected, origional plans were 1 5/8, but LPP changed the size prior to production*

3" collectors

3" Y pipe

Edited January 31, 2009 by BigCountry (see edit history)

[shadowsniper3006]

that seems like a small primary...isn't OBX 1.750 and kooks 1.875.

[BigCountry]

Changed specs per manufacturer in my earlier post. Primaries are 1 3/4" I will report back on the fit when they arrive,

Edited January 31, 2009 by BigCountry (see edit history)

[shadowsniper3006]

that would work better. i had 1 5/8 on my bassani and i swear it was slower then manifolds.

[BigCountry]

i agree, 1 3/4" is the same as Stainless Works, Dynatech, OBX, Pacesetters and ARH (although they do offer a 1 7/8" version). People are making big power with all of them, so i'm sure it'll be fine as long as the fit is there.

[jlosh20s]

im currently running doug thorley tri y's and i love them major difference from stock manifolds the finish on them is really good mine are ceramic coated and the finish was generously applied and doesnt come off tried to scratch a small spot didnt do any thing and as far as fitment they went right in and bolted right up i think these should be added as one of the top list

[thepremium1]

question... What do you guys mean the dynatechs are "a grand cheaper"? they are only $600 http://www.afabcorp.com/AFCO_Dynatech_USbrake/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=Dynatech&Category_Code=99to05GMtrucksuv are these the ones u guys are talking about

???

[Joe Roknic]

question... What do you guys mean the dynatechs are "a grand cheaper"? they are only $600 http://www.afabcorp....9to05GMtrucksuv are these the ones u guys are talking about

???

 

 

That $600 price tag is probably for the headers only.....no collectors, high flow cats...etc. The cheapest I've ever seen for the complete dynamax setup was $1350. You may want to call that vendor and see what is all included for that price.