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service 4 wheel drive message


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hi everyone,

just bought used silverado with 56000 miles on it. 2000, 1500, z71, 4x4, centurion package. owner swore everything works fine. at the test drive truck checked out fine, i drove it for maybe 20 minutes. bought it today - driving home "service 4 wheel drive" message came up in maybe 4 minutes driving.

i am a very good tree shade mechanic. do i need to panic and re-sell the car (i got it fairly cheap) or just check on transfer case lube level and maybe change it or add some?

please, email to [email protected] asap, before i register a dud in my name and fork for repairs. otherwise, love the car. absolutely not willing to deal with dealerships etc.

 

thank you

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  • 1 month later...

hi everyone.

 

gee, i almost forgot i posted this here.

 

ok, in a nutshell - $64 lighter, pulled the transfer case switch out, lubed all connectors on the new one, sealed with ignition sealer, problem's gone. actually, before i did this, i drove for some time with a toothpick wedged between the 2HI and switch case - took care of the message. i was replacing stereo, so the dashboard was off anyways, so i replaced switch at the same time.

 

as of the dreaded rub at stop and go - got rid of that either. just pried away dust boot on slip yoke, run few shots of quick wrench dry lube with ptfe inside, let it drip, and then sprayed as much as i could of lithium greese inside, as far as the straw could reach. it rubbed for maybe half a day, now it's completely gone. done saturday. i am referring, to those who are confused on what the hey i'm talking about, to infamous "stick-slip" condition between splines in transfer case output shaft and driveshaft yoke. stop - RUB, take off- RUB. gonsky!! will just relube it time to time. forget their "replace yoke with nickelplated yoke" for 6 benjamens.

 

also, so much more worrying me kick in the transmission from get go is virtually gone. gm has tsb regarding that, lengthy explanation why and how and refuses to fix it, and recommends "reprogramming of tcm". my highny! changed transfer case fluid - it came out green instead of grapes blueish-purple of the fresh fluid - and after it warms up, maybe 1 minute drive - it's barely noticeable. next is to change rear diff fluid with good synth. i guess, that'll silence everything completely. pleasure to drive now. got amsoil in the cranckcase, can't tell she's running.

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hi everyone.

 

gee, i almost forgot i posted this here.

 

ok, in a nutshell - $64 lighter, pulled the transfer case switch out, lubed all connectors on the new one, sealed with ignition sealer, problem's gone. actually, before i did this, i drove for some time with a toothpick wedged between the 2HI and switch case - took care of the message. i was replacing stereo, so the dashboard was off anyways, so i replaced switch at the same time.

 

as of the dreaded rub at stop and go - got rid of that either. just pried away dust boot on slip yoke, run few shots of quick wrench dry lube with ptfe inside, let it drip, and then sprayed as much as i could of lithium greese inside, as far as the straw could reach. it rubbed for maybe half a day, now it's completely gone. done saturday. i am referring, to those who are confused on what the hey i'm talking about, to infamous "stick-slip" condition between splines in transfer case output shaft and driveshaft yoke. stop - RUB, take off- RUB. gonsky!! will just relube it time to time. forget their "replace yoke with nickelplated yoke" for 6 benjamens.

 

also, so much more worrying me kick in the transmission from get go is virtually gone. gm has tsb regarding that, lengthy explanation why and how and refuses to fix it, and recommends "reprogramming of tcm". my highny! changed transfer case fluid - it came out green instead of grapes blueish-purple of the fresh fluid - and after it warms up, maybe 1 minute drive - it's barely noticeable. next is to change rear diff fluid with good synth. i guess, that'll silence everything completely. pleasure to drive now. got amsoil in the cranckcase, can't tell she's running.

 

Good choice w/ AmsOil ... but should defrinitely consider the reprogram if there's a TSB for it ... GM didn't revise the software for nothing ... just my $.02.

 

:cheers:

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You must replace the transfer case fluid with only GM fluid. It's a blueish color, hence the odd looking color when you drained it. As far as I know, the ONLY fluid that should be put in the tranfer case is the stuff from GM. Don't know why, but that's what everybody recommends.

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You must replace the transfer case fluid with only GM fluid. It's a blueish color, hence the odd looking color when you drained it. As far as I know, the ONLY fluid that should be put in the tranfer case is the stuff from GM. Don't know why, but that's what everybody recommends.

 

 

didn't i say i did? it's grapes blue fresh. green murky came out of transfer case.

also replaced diff fluid today. 1. came out black as tar 2. i do not think there was even enough of it, as it drained out very fast, but took in almost three quarts. that much fluid would have drained much longer at its viscosity. good i had extras, so now i have 2 quarts of amsoil and half a quart of royal purple sooper dooper gear oil in the rear diff.

took truck for test drive after, turned stereo off - smoooooooth like aaaa silkaaaa.

as of someone's remark about "good choice amsoil" i'd rather use royal purple, i have tremendous success with their product, just that it's not always available for what i need, then amsoil is my second choice. engines just simply run better on RP, though i can get more useful mileage out of amsoil. of course, their "good for 25000 miles" is BS, best i could get was 12K, before valves started going tad noisy.

anyways, as of now - i am absolutely looking forward to any excuse to go for a drive. love it. MPG could have been better, but i am less worried about that. besides, engine is not even broken in, only 57K miles. on my CR-V mileage got to the EPA level only after 70K miles.

found cool thing today about truck - headlights can be pulled out completely in no time to replace lightbulbs. not that they went wrong, simply OEM ones were too dark to my taste, so i got some fancy expensy bulbs in. there is a lot of street smart things they put into this truck. nothing like you have to disassemble the whole front end to get to the lights (mitsubishi)

well, next project - HALO spark plugs. as a matter of fact, i'll order them right now. love them!

y'all be well and stay away from trouble.

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You must replace the transfer case fluid with only GM fluid. It's a blueish color, hence the odd looking color when you drained it. As far as I know, the ONLY fluid that should be put in the tranfer case is the stuff from GM. Don't know why, but that's what everybody recommends.

 

 

Not true!! I work at the dealer. There is no requirement that you use only their fluid. In the fluid recomendations, it says, use PN ********** or equivalent. I put synthetic fluids in my truck from end to end. I used BG products which most dealers carry. They have a full line of lubricants from engine oils, to penetrating oils. It's all good stuff. They even have the limited slip additives. As long as it is a quality name brand product that is recomended for use in that vehicle, it will not void any warranties.

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What the heck is a Halo spark plug? Is it another stab at multiple electrodes or some crap like that. If so, let me tell you, they are a waste of money. At one time there was a plug out with 4 tips for the spark to jump to. What horse crap. Here is a little lesson in electricity. Spark will take the least resistant path to ground. What that means is, out of the 4 tips for the spark to jump to, it's only going to jump to one of them, not all of them at once. So, buy a good set of AC Delco plugs, or some NGK's if you're running N02, and run them. You'll be fine.

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Not true!! I work at the dealer. There is no requirement that you use only their fluid. In the fluid recomendations, it says, use PN ********** or equivalent. I put synthetic fluids in my truck from end to end. I used BG products which most dealers carry. They have a full line of lubricants from engine oils, to penetrating oils. It's all good stuff. They even have the limited slip additives. As long as it is a quality name brand product that is recomended for use in that vehicle, it will not void any warranties.

 

I thought that only the GM fluid could be used ... because no one else in the aftermarket made a transfer case fluid that matched GM's specs on their "blue" fluid.

 

What fluid do you use in your transfer case? I would like to learn more about this ...

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